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knock in transmission, please help


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kensoncustom
User

Apr 21, 2012, 2:22 PM

Post #26 of 64 (1762 views)
  post locked   Re: knock in transmission, please help  

you may want to do a simple compression check on each cyl and hook a oil presure guage before you condem your engine.your truck believe it or not is a rare bird having a manual transmission you may have a clutch problem.if the damper in the clutch disc goes bad it will cause what is called an overrun gear knock you will be chasing a ghost!


MattMan
User

Apr 21, 2012, 6:16 PM

Post #27 of 64 (1750 views)
  post locked   Re: knock in transmission, please help  

Ok i got my motor.

what should i do to it this week to have it ready to go into the truck? i was thinking i should replace all of the gaskets but im not sure if this process is worth it? figured as i do the gaskets i can clean the engine as i go. I really want a good running motor in my truck once this is all said and done, dont want to cut corners and try and be cheap and end up wishing i had gone the extra mile. im ready for my truck to have some balls back.


zmame
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Apr 21, 2012, 8:44 PM

Post #28 of 64 (1753 views)
  post locked   Re: knock in transmission, please help  

Meh just slap it in and go.. if you see any signs of them leaking while it's out change them if not don't worry about it... if has been sitting for a while you might run into valve cover gaskets and stuff dried out, but you can figure that out after..


(This post was edited by zmame on Apr 21, 2012, 8:50 PM)


Discretesignals
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Apr 22, 2012, 11:40 AM

Post #29 of 64 (1741 views)
  post locked   Re: knock in transmission, please help  


Quote
if the damper in the clutch disc goes bad it will cause what is called an overrun gear knock you will be chasing a ghost!


I was thinking about this and the damper in the clutch disc your referring to is the springs correct? If the damper was bad, wouldn't disengaging the clutch cause the noise to go away or change?

Compression check probably won't reveal a spun bearing or damaged rod bearing. Low oil pressure could indicate a spun bearing or worn bearing as long as the regulator in the pump isn't compensating for the drop in pressure.

Another idea is to disable spark for each cylinder one at a time while the knock is occurring to see if the knock changes. If it changes or lessens when disabling spark on a particular cylinder, then you know its bottom end problems.





Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.

(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Apr 22, 2012, 11:41 AM)


kensoncustom
User

Apr 26, 2012, 1:24 PM

Post #30 of 64 (1722 views)
  post locked   Re: knock in transmission, please help  

just like a ford diesel engine damper in flywheel which was 900 bucks you could switch to a solid flywheel but, you would have to change to disc with a damper
and looks much different than a regular disc with springs


Discretesignals
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Apr 26, 2012, 3:12 PM

Post #31 of 64 (1710 views)
  post locked   Re: knock in transmission, please help  

This vehicle doesn't have a dual mass flywheel. There is a damper in the clutch disc, but I haven't seen one come apart and sound like rod knock.





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(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Apr 26, 2012, 3:12 PM)


MattMan
User

May 2, 2012, 12:57 PM

Post #32 of 64 (1685 views)
  post locked   Re: knock in transmission, please help  

well i decided to brave the instalation myself, got the help of a friend and of course he was here to take it all apart but never showed back up to put it all together...so it was on me. had my old man come over to help me out, we have about 20 lbs of leftover nuts/bolts...brackets and other assorted parts (alot im assuming are from the replacement motor, did have 2 of alot of pieces)

anyways all is back together, fluids back in it and i went to start er up, made a clicking noise like the starter solonoid makes when the starter sticks and it wont turn over. i thought it to be the started so i replaced it with one the guy who sold me the motor dropped off, it was in kinda rought cosmetic shape but figured i would try it, put it in and still the same noise.

the started that came out of my truck did work before i removed it so im thinking it may be something else, anyone have any idea as to what this could be. i would really like to get this motor turning to see if she will fire up.


Hammer Time
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May 2, 2012, 1:21 PM

Post #33 of 64 (1681 views)
  post locked   Re: knock in transmission, please help  

Probably wrong flywheel.



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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



MattMan
User

May 2, 2012, 2:44 PM

Post #34 of 64 (1676 views)
  post locked   Re: knock in transmission, please help  

i used the flywheel off of my original motor as it was different than the one that came on the new motor, it was much thicker

oh and sorry for the lack of responses i didnt realize this thread had made it to 2 pages and just thought no one was responding.


(This post was edited by MattMan on May 2, 2012, 2:45 PM)


Discretesignals
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May 2, 2012, 3:33 PM

Post #35 of 64 (1668 views)
  post locked   Re: knock in transmission, please help  

Can you turn the crank by hand one full revolution?





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MattMan
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May 2, 2012, 3:54 PM

Post #36 of 64 (1664 views)
  post locked   Re: knock in transmission, please help  

yes, by putting a socket wrench on the center bolt on the harmonic balancer pully i can rotate the crankshaft while the vehicle is in nuetral.

the other guy has be a bit concerned with his flywheel comment, i took the flywheel off my other motor and put it on this one, also a whole new clutch assembly.

im really thinking that it may just be a electrical issue, i have 2 wires that go to the starter one is a woven copper wire and the other is a small wire that im assuming is the "hot" wire. i think maybe the ground may be bad but if it dosent have a ground will that cause it to click? i would "think" that no ground = no power = no sound


Discretesignals
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May 2, 2012, 4:07 PM

Post #37 of 64 (1656 views)
  post locked   Re: knock in transmission, please help  

Make sure the negative battery cable is connected to the block by the crank sensor. There is another ground from the wiring harness that shares that ground point.





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MattMan
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May 2, 2012, 4:17 PM

Post #38 of 64 (1652 views)
  post locked   Re: knock in transmission, please help  

yes there is 2 grounds on that bolt, 1 is against the block the other is not, i even took the grinder (lightly) to the block when re attaching the first one so i knew there was a good connection, going to go out and attach them both at the same spot. right now one ground is against the block and the other one is seperated by a couple of nuts.

ill check back in a few when i get this done.


MattMan
User

May 2, 2012, 4:45 PM

Post #39 of 64 (1648 views)
  post locked   Re: knock in transmission, please help  

ok that was a pain in the ass :) but got it done and still not crank.......ugg

i have tried tapping on the starter, the battery is and has been on a charger for a good 4 hours now.....Crazy

just want it to turn so i can see if this motor will run hehe...


MattMan
User

May 2, 2012, 4:52 PM

Post #40 of 64 (1645 views)
  post locked   Re: knock in transmission, please help  

alright, its getting dark out and im done for the night.

i did notice that the braided copper wire that goes from the big bolt on the starter, bolted to the frame of the truck then travels up somewhere else is broken before it gets to its final destination, no idea where that is but im sure theres not supposed to be 6-12 inces of this copper wire just flopping around.

if you can tell me where the last location of this wire is, would i be able to replace it with a piece of heavy gauge solid copper wire?


(This post was edited by MattMan on May 2, 2012, 4:58 PM)


Discretesignals
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May 2, 2012, 6:11 PM

Post #41 of 64 (1638 views)
  post locked   Re: knock in transmission, please help  

Is this actually a piece of wire or a braided ground cable. I don't think there is a braided ground cable at the starter, but there is one that attaches to the back of the cylinder head.

If you have a volt meter touch the black lead to the positive battery post and then touch the red lead to the starter post where the battery cable connects. Have someone crank the engine. It should be less than .5 volt.

If that is good, switch the black lead to the negative terminal on the battery and touch the red lead to the starter case. Crank the engine. You should see less than .5 volt.

You see anymore than that, you have some excessive resistance going on in your cables or connections.





Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.

(This post was edited by Discretesignals on May 2, 2012, 6:12 PM)


MattMan
User

May 2, 2012, 6:51 PM

Post #42 of 64 (1629 views)
  post locked   Re: knock in transmission, please help  

from what i can see is it is a braided copper cable that goes on the bigger terminal of the starter solonoid. i may be wrong and this cable may go elsewhere, like i said earlier the guy i was paying to help me get this back together made it to take everything apart and leave me to put the pieces together. should i be looking for a thicker wire that attaches to the starter?


MattMan
User

May 3, 2012, 10:03 AM

Post #43 of 64 (1618 views)
  post locked   Re: knock in transmission, please help  

ok so what my plan of action for today is to pull the old starter out and test the new one, if the new one tests good im going to replace the braided copper wire with a solid copper wire (all i have and im running low on funds for this project) and see where that takes me, hopefully if all goes well i get some crank. and if all goear really well i get a running motor (not holding my breath im ready for more issues to pop up) what really sucks is i could have just bought a crank kit and replaced all the berings and crankshaft, if im not mistaken that can all be done withoutremoving the engine correct?


Tom Greenleaf
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May 3, 2012, 11:39 AM

Post #44 of 64 (1611 views)
  post locked   Re: knock in transmission, please help  

Braided ground straps are far more flexible so if you must replace it with another. Not big bucks. Perhaps eyelet ends have a problem or some strange attitude? Most totally failed ones you find plain broken from prior work or some other reason,

T



MattMan
User

May 3, 2012, 11:44 AM

Post #45 of 64 (1608 views)
  post locked   Re: knock in transmission, please help  

SHES IS RUNNING!!!!!


Tom Greenleaf
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May 3, 2012, 12:19 PM

Post #46 of 64 (1604 views)
  post locked   Re: knock in transmission, please help  

Whatever you did must have worked so I won't argue it. Just keep an eye on what you did if not OE if it happens again. Thanks for your reporting the results,

T



Discretesignals
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May 3, 2012, 3:21 PM

Post #47 of 64 (1596 views)
  post locked   Re: knock in transmission, please help  

Good job! What was causing the no crank?

He's prolly out driving all over the place now...LOL.





Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.


MattMan
User

May 3, 2012, 5:15 PM

Post #48 of 64 (1585 views)
  post locked   Re: knock in transmission, please help  

haha thanks guys, my moms B day party cut my work short. the braided ground strap is eliding me, i found the "correct" wire hidden up under the exaust manifold must got jammed up there when we were putting motor in and the braided copper wire looked like it belonged there. (like i said i didnt take this stuff apart) actually hooked up the braided wire with the correct wire (thinking they both belonged there) and the braided wire stared smoking like a soag so i had to remove that and as soon as i did i had her turning, took a few cranks to get her started but she went finally, havent hooked the exaust manifolds up yet, figured if i had to take it out again no sense in putting new 9$ donut gaskets in both flanges just to have to remove them.

i did test the starter with the multimeter like you suggested and was getting 11+v so something was definatly wrong. still no idea where that braided wire goes.

after about 2 min of cranking she fired up (i think i repeated myself sorry) loaud as hell she was running with no knock, let her run for about 30 sec then shut her off. tried to fire her back up about 30 min later and it took another 2 min of cranking, letting the fuel pump run , cranking to get her going again...any ideas on this issue?

i think im going to take to a shop to have the exaust connected to the manifolds as the bolts are giving me a hard time and i dont have the originals (we grinded off the old ones and the newmotor didnt come with any) went and got some at the hardware store and the didnt seem to have the right fit.


thanks again guys for all your help, ill keep everyone updated as far as how she makes it past her initial test drive and after i change the fluids again (oil)


(This post was edited by MattMan on May 3, 2012, 5:24 PM)


Discretesignals
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May 3, 2012, 6:17 PM

Post #49 of 64 (1574 views)
  post locked   Re: knock in transmission, please help  

2 mins of cranking. Your going to burn up your starter..lol.

Need to find out what is missing when it doesn't want to start. Check fuel pressure and spark. Make sure the theft light isn't on your flashing.

Check engine light on? You'll also need to have a shop with a scan tool that can watch cam sensor offset set the distributor for you. You'll also need to do a crankshaft relearn, so the PCM can calculate misfires correctly.

Gonna have to definitely get the exhaust connected up, so you can hear the engine. Most auto parts stores should carry those bolts. Dorman brand makes those.





Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.

(This post was edited by Discretesignals on May 3, 2012, 6:29 PM)


MattMan
User

May 3, 2012, 6:47 PM

Post #50 of 64 (1563 views)
  post locked   Re: knock in transmission, please help  

well i dont hold on the starter for 2 min, not even more than 3-4 sec usually, then i swith it back to make the fuel pump kick on and try again a few sec later.

fuel pressure....i guess my next step.

the bolts i believe are stripped on the Y to the manifolds....2 bolts are still stuck in one of the flanges i think a shop could have it in the air and the nuts/bolts changed withing 30 min, its a all day project for me.






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