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1993 chevy k1500.. 350 engine 4x4
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alienshadow
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Mar 18, 2010, 5:17 AM
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1993 chevy k1500.. 350 engine 4x4
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Hey guys can anyone here guide me on what part numbers I would need to replace my A/C/ Compressor and dryer.. I will try to describe hookups on compressor.. Looks like all lines go into the back of it. It looks short and stubby right on top of the engine to the left... I also need the dryer part number. I think my lines are okay.. Clutch keeps locking up and I am told for the money mine as well replace go figure.. Thanks for any help.. Aftermarket part brands will be good for me because they may be cheaper... If you cant fix it then dont mess with it...
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re-tired
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Mar 18, 2010, 8:35 AM
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Re: 1993 chevy k1500.. 350 engine 4x4
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Your best bet is a local parts house . You may pay a few dollars more ,but they will be there for warranty and product support. I have seen hundreds yes hundreds (a/c is quite popular in FLA) of very short life installs of no name white box units . Do you have the proper equipment leak detector , vac pump ,orifice tube puller, they dont always fall out . set of gages are you converting from r12 . you will need to replace seals and flush . Just dont want you to throw money away. LIFE'S SHORT GO FISH
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Tom Greenleaf
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Mar 19, 2010, 5:05 AM
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Re: 1993 chevy k1500.. 350 engine 4x4
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Alien, You need to know a lot more and it could mean a new condenser, "O" tube and full flush if compressor seized. Did clutch lock up and wont return to idle or is compressor locked up with belt screeching over that pulley? Both 134a or some R-12 versions s RT mentioned were sold in 1993 models and you need to know which was or is original AND what other parts are original. Look for factory label on accumulator/drier or elsewhere if still there or any markings for history on this. The OE compressor was known for failures so chances of still being R-12 now are slim. Changes the approach if retrofitted. If anyone has used a "Death Kit" (a nick name for the junk in a can to fix all) like sold in department stores and real parts stores it would have to be removed or all warranties would be voided! Are you sure you are really up to this job. Much equipment is rent-able but still takes lots of know how or it will fail fast or not work at all and be out the $ already invested, T
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alienshadow
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Mar 20, 2010, 10:58 AM
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Re: 1993 chevy k1500.. 350 engine 4x4
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Tom, Clutch just locks up and will release.. I am not sure about junk in a can? I also know I had it converted to R134 last summer by my mechanic...I wont be doing the install.. I am just buying the parts with warranty.. Mechanic will do a complete flush and do a vac on the lones I guess? Also he said besides the compressor and dryer he thought all other parts were good to go...Hes been doing mechanical work for 30 plus yrs I guess he knows more than me lol....Let me know also pulley does not make a loud noise... If you cant fix it then dont mess with it...
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Tom Greenleaf
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Mar 20, 2010, 11:39 AM
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Re: 1993 chevy k1500.. 350 engine 4x4
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Kewl beans buddy! What the mechanic will want to know is EVERYTHING you can tell for a history on the thing. There's no dipstick for oil level that's in it now so even saying you have no clue is good info for him/her. Also - IMPORTANT - disconnect the plug from the clutch while cool and all things off. Tie it away to a safe spot so clutch/compressor won't even try to work as it's just causing more problems now. Tell the mechanic you did that as it could even snap the belt if you don't. I suggest you write down the history and anything you noted and give it to them. Let them make the call on extent of suggested work. If there's no debris in outlet of compressor or if they check "O" tube (means orifice tube) that's all good news. I know this cost bucks but it's worse doing it wrong only to do over! Click on "Heat or AC Issues" look for locked post saying in caps "CHARGING PROCEDURES............" and read that and you'll know there a turd load to know. That article is about as concise as can be done and doesn't take into account complications so it would be 10 times longer! Note: MANY perfectly good shops and techs don't do A/C work as it's a lot of know how and equipment that where I live (MA) just gets stuffed in storage most of the time and isn't a great money maker taking all that space for the little it may be needed so shops just farm out that part a lot of the time. You've made the right choice on this one IMO, T
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Tom Greenleaf
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Mar 21, 2010, 1:04 AM
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Re: 1993 chevy k1500.. 350 engine 4x4
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Just another "Band out of Boston" T
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alienshadow
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Mar 23, 2010, 7:27 AM
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Re: 1993 chevy k1500.. 350 engine 4x4
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Okay guys got my A/C fix.. It cost me 275.00 to get installed the parts cost me 199... Anyway I bought a rebuilt compressor and when the guy installed it he said if he would of knew that he wouldnt of put it on.. Its a Murray rebuilt with a 12 month warranty... From Oreilys auto parts... So I guess I am asking did I make a mistake buying a rebuilt???? Tell me it aint so... If you cant fix it then dont mess with it...
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Tom Greenleaf
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Mar 23, 2010, 9:19 AM
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Re: 1993 chevy k1500.. 350 engine 4x4
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New is new and with compressors as many parts would be the best choice. Sometimes the price or vehicle doesn't justify that If the tech didn't want to install a rebuilt unit then why didn't he stop and mention it right away? It's done and the prices seem great to me. If it's all working properly and SOUNDS good now then just pay attention that it stays that way. Any increased noise(s) or oil evidence behind that clutch or anywhere refrigerant is contained is a cause to act to find out why. As mentioned before, when you know it's going out because of noise or total lack of cooling then unplug it so it can't do more harm. Good luck with it, T
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Hammer Time
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Mar 23, 2010, 12:05 PM
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With respect to failure likelyhood, on a scale of 1 to 10, if a new compressor is a 10, a reman is a 3. They don't hold up well at all, especially after the first one has failed and contaminated the system. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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alienshadow
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Mar 23, 2010, 3:38 PM
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Re: 1993 chevy k1500.. 350 engine 4x4
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Well Geeezzzzz Hammer.... I feel like I might of wasted my money.. I wonder why they sell them if the faliure is so high?? I bought a reman and if it dosent hold up I am out 275.00 just like that.. Good thing is the reman came with a 1 yr warranty.. I must say it is cooling great and the shop did do a complete flush and put a brand new switch on the accumulator.... I am not sure what you meant by the old one verses the new one if the system was complesty flushed out???? If you cant fix it then dont mess with it...
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Hammer Time
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Mar 23, 2010, 4:47 PM
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I'm afraid that's the track record on most of them. There are varying quality in Reman units too. Some are better than others. It can make a big difference if the guy installing it really knows what he is doing and takes all the right steps. Flushing is important if it was done right, the correct amount of oil was used and the oil was purged out of the compressor manually before engaging the clutch. You also need to be sure you found the cause of the original failure and resolved that too. For example if the truck has a bad fan clutch that led to the first failure, the second will go even quicker. Not overcharging is important also. I actually refuse to install a reman unless there is just nothing available on a new one and then I give just a 90 day warranty on it if I am forced to use one. I can usually see the difference right out of the box. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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alienshadow
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Mar 23, 2010, 6:48 PM
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Hammer not sure what they did.. He seemed to do everything correctly and the shop I took it to has a good reputation.. He will stand by his work but being I bought the stuff he wont stand by that which I totally understand.. Not sure what caused the first one to go but it was the original compressor that came from the factory..There was residue all over that compressor and clutch.. I am hoping that this reman will be okay...This is a 93 chevy and I was on a budget because I am trying to get my pool fixed to a new liner.. I guess I should of went ahead and bought a new one.. But what is done is done.. I just hope the guy at Oreilys didnt lie to me when he said they would reimburse me for labor cost to if the compressor fails...Thanks If you cant fix it then dont mess with it...
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Hammer Time
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Mar 23, 2010, 7:46 PM
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Labor? I'll believe that when i see it. Labor claims come from the manufacturers and none of them want to pay. It's like they don't want to open the flood gates. You have to face one fact. You have no warranty at all on that job. There is no way that any kind of failure won't be attributed to the parts. I don't know what you have available around you but we buy new generic compressors for around the same price you paid for that one. My cost on a brand new Delco for that truck is $193 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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alienshadow
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Mar 23, 2010, 7:56 PM
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I am thinking positive thoughts.... Hopefully I wont have any issues thanks Hammer If you cant fix it then dont mess with it...
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alienshadow
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Mar 23, 2010, 8:06 PM
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Hammer by the way I paid 120.00 for compressor with 1 yr warranty remanuf 34.00 for accumulator 1.99 Orfice 10.00 for the compressor oil.. 36.00 for the accumulator switch and labor was 275.00 which included the freon .... I feel I did okay.. Just wanted to clarify If you cant fix it then dont mess with it...
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Hammer Time
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Mar 24, 2010, 3:22 AM
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That's a lot better than the $275 I thought you paid for the compressor ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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alienshadow
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Apr 23, 2010, 11:38 AM
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Okay guys little input here A/C is cooling great.. I was just wondering if you could lead me in the right direction here.. When I cut the A/C off I hear a loud squeaky noise coming from the compressor.. I turn it on it goes away.. Tell me its normal?? Please dont tell me this reman is going bad fingers crossed here... Thanks.. If you cant fix it then dont mess with it...
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Hammer Time
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Apr 23, 2010, 12:08 PM
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Sounds like either the clearnace between the plate and the pully is too narrow or the pulley bearing is bad. With the engine off, remove the belt and see if the pulley has any wobble to it. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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alienshadow
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Apr 23, 2010, 12:14 PM
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Will have to take it to the shop again geezzz.. Is this something that I can let ride?? And are you talking about the pulley underneath the compressor? I guess as long as its cooling the a/c unit is good correct? Thanks Hammer If you cant fix it then dont mess with it...
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Tom Greenleaf
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Apr 23, 2010, 2:36 PM
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Can't let this go. As HT said it's either gap too close which should have been noticed when just installed or when this or any compressor is off (outer plate not engaged) it's just a dumb pulley with a bearing like others. It's probably just a bad bearing which is inside of the clutch. Some are easy to replace and some more tricky. Part isn't expensive. Did the compressor come with the clutch or was the old one used on this compressor? If old one was swapped then it leaves open the gap being too close by mistake but again that would have shown up right away. That air gap doesn't get smaller over time unless some debris is caught up in it somehow? None the less it has to get fixed as I'm near certain you have just one belt on this and if that pulley goes you'll lose everything it drives, T
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alienshadow
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Apr 23, 2010, 2:49 PM
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Tom the a/c compressor came with the clutch already on it... Guess I can take it back to the guy who installed it just to see what he says.. Probably wants more dough.... Also another note seems to be louder when first cut off then it settles down and you can barely hear it does that make since???? If you cant fix it then dont mess with it...
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Tom Greenleaf
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Apr 23, 2010, 3:26 PM
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Yep - now that seems more like the clutch air gap is an issue. Not there so hard to be sure. You can try a trick to check that gap with a standard paper biz card it should be larger than that. When folded it would be very tight or wont fit in the gap well. Spec for most is about .020 if you want to check with a feeler gauge. Is this all dirty from anything?? Been off roading? In that it near goes away it might be just some goofy quirk and suddenly stay away IF it's the clutch plates. Either way worth paying a lot of attention so you don't get stuck, T
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alienshadow
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Apr 23, 2010, 3:28 PM
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So are you thinking new a/c unit or just bearings?? If its just the bearings which I think it is listening to it ...how much do you think it that would cost to fix? I guess I need to make this a priority.. If you cant fix it then dont mess with it...
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