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1993 chevy k1500.. 350 engine 4x4
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Tom Greenleaf
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Apr 23, 2010, 3:37 PM
Post #26 of 90
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Re: 1993 chevy k1500.. 350 engine 4x4
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The worry is the belt burning or falling off if this went real bad. Gotta diagnose it first. The compressor is both a pump when engaged and at that time the bearing of the clutch (remember it's also an idling pulley) is really not in use. The bearing IS in use when compressor is off.
Here's the deal. If just an adjustment then let the shop fix that. If and you would have to ask about warranty on the unit as a whole if they would send you just a clutch or want the whole thing back. That means evacuating the system and starting all over again as if it had a bad compressor for a possible plain bearing. Your shop isn't going to want to do all this for nothing with parts you brought in unless you have some arrangement.
Again: When engaged the compressor is turning on bushings inside it and when off it's just a bearing like an idler pulley would have. I still don't totally understand why clutch air gap would wait this time to show up as an issue? Stuff happens
T
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alienshadow
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Apr 23, 2010, 3:41 PM
Post #27 of 90
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Re: 1993 chevy k1500.. 350 engine 4x4
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No off roading ..underneath looks like a brand new one I keep it clean... I hate this, this unit isnt even 3 months old.. Guess thats what I get for getting a reman unit... Not sure what this is going to cost..
If you cant fix it then dont mess with it...
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alienshadow
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Apr 23, 2010, 3:51 PM
Post #28 of 90
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Re: 1993 chevy k1500.. 350 engine 4x4
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Tom if its the bearing is that an easy fix? I have a 12 month warranty on this a/c unit Oreilys claims I can file for a labor claim but i THINK i WILL GET THE HASSLE... I understand what you are explaining to me Tom.. Makes me think run the a/c all the time until I get it checked I dont want the belt breaking...
If you cant fix it then dont mess with it...
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alienshadow
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Apr 23, 2010, 3:57 PM
Post #29 of 90
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Re: 1993 chevy k1500.. 350 engine 4x4
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Also do u happen to have a pic of where I am suppose to put the card??
If you cant fix it then dont mess with it...
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Apr 24, 2010, 5:00 AM
Post #30 of 90
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Re: 1993 chevy k1500.. 350 engine 4x4
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If it shows, here's the idea...........
Actually a generic pic but may look real close to that. That outer plate is turning the compressor itself and all things off you should be able to spin that by hand which is at that slow rate turning the inside of the compressor. When off that plate sits still. When outer plate moves by hand with belt on you'll see that grooved pulley NOT move via a very small gap. That's where you check it and best go all the way around or as much as you can.
All that would be better done with belt just retracted and hold it out of the way. Then grooved pulley should spin free as a bird and silently. If it was an old vehicle/part and sitting around, rusted it would rub some till burnished in again. Those three rivet things are holding metal springs (bent metal) on that one such that default without the magnetic pull of clutch coil pulling it in is OFF. Just recently found a clutch looking like this one with one broken but the remaining two were plenty to disengage that one but it rattled.
I find it easier to use a biz card than a feeler gauge to run it all the way around. If it ran into a tight spot that isn't right. Neither the outer plate or the grooved pulley should have any rocking free-play! You need belt out of the way for best check.
If you remove the belt make sure you have a diagram to place back exactly. If not I should be able to find one. This came with a sticker showing belt routing. Make sure if you do that, that the belt is exactly in its grooves on all pulleys or it will tear up and wreck it quickly.
RE: Running compressor all the time: You really can't unless it's super hot it will cycle off and on as needed for the conditions. If it didn't shut down when it reaches satisfied for pressures and coolness it would ice up in dash and risk returning liquid refrigerant to be compressed which it can't and would stall the compressor - not good!
See what you find. When you can, discuss a plan with the shop. As far as labor reimbursement for defect you can try and I've done it. Tons of paper and statements, receipts then a long wait for them to decide. As said I did that without legal action against a part maker and they did pay out about $300 but for the time I spent it wasn't enough.
If this compressor is working well and quietly when working I'd hate to see it go if only an adjustment or even the whole clutch which even a reman should use a new one - or not funny, clean and paint it/sand blast it to look new
T
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alienshadow
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Apr 24, 2010, 5:21 AM
Post #31 of 90
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Re: 1993 chevy k1500.. 350 engine 4x4
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Tom with the belt on I cant get a business card to go all the way around.. I can get it in on top but when I start going around it gets real tight... I will let the mechanic take the belt off or whatever I dont have the tools to do it... Your info has been helpful.. Maybe it just needs to be adjusted..
If you cant fix it then dont mess with it...
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Tom Greenleaf
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Apr 24, 2010, 5:53 AM
Post #32 of 90
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Re: 1993 chevy k1500.. 350 engine 4x4
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OK: Know this: If just an adjustment fine. It does take a puller to adjust gap or to remove clutch for even a bearing. It doesn't require messing with the refrigerant just to do the clutch stuff on most when you can get clutch puller tool in place ok. I would hope if deemed in need of a clutch that the parts place would just get you a brand new clutch as so far the compressor is working but let the shop decide. If no good you should get a full credit towards a new compressor with new clutch already to go. They may require yet another drier to maintain warranty on a new one,
T
PS: This is a testament for springing the extra for new vs remanufactured. Some reman parts are fine. In compressors I don't like it. With anything check the prices of new vs remans as you can be surprised at how close some are but be sure you are getting direct fit stuff of OE quality....
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nickwarner
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Apr 24, 2010, 9:13 AM
Post #33 of 90
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Re: 1993 chevy k1500.. 350 engine 4x4
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The whole compressor wouldn't need changing, just the cheap little bearing in it. Went and popped the hood on my truck and the compressor is right there easy to get at so labor shouldn't be too bad
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Hammer Time
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Apr 24, 2010, 11:16 AM
Post #34 of 90
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Except he just bought this compressor and I bet that pulley with bearing costs over half what that compressor costs and it will no linger be under warranty if he takes it apart.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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alienshadow
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Apr 24, 2010, 12:19 PM
Post #35 of 90
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Re: 1993 chevy k1500.. 350 engine 4x4
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Hammer.. Oreilys told me in order for them to warranty the pulley I have to take the whole unit out go figure.. I think I will buy the 6.99 part and take my chances.. I am not looking to be red taped here lol...
Yes the A/C compressor is right on top if I had the tools and know how I would replace the bearing myself...
Also when I crank it up in the morning no noise.. even after warm up but when I cut the a/c on and shut off then the dang thing starts its mess confused in N.C. lol
If you cant fix it then dont mess with it...
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Hammer Time
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Apr 24, 2010, 1:05 PM
Post #36 of 90
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Re: 1993 chevy k1500.. 350 engine 4x4
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Your not going to fix that car for $6.99.
First off, your going to have to pull the compressor off the car which means evacuate and recharge. You may think your going to do it on the car but when you start trying to access the snap rings that are way inside and you can't even see them, you'll realize it has to come off. Second, they are pricing you on the bearing alone. I really doubt you can get that old bearing out of the pulley and pressed back in without damaging the pulley. Now your looking at buying a whole clutch for over $100. Your also looking at special tools for pulling the clutch apart and pressing it back on. Your Reman compressor is going to be a complete can of worms and it has only just begun.
Right now your best bet is to take that compressor off and swap it for a new one. Then cross your finders that the 2nd one isn't worse.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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alienshadow
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Apr 24, 2010, 3:46 PM
Post #37 of 90
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Re: 1993 chevy k1500.. 350 engine 4x4
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What the bearing in the pulley?? I was going to just get the pulley replaced the a/c is working fine... It dosent rattle while its engaged.. Only after its cut off..The Pulley is 24.99 ..mechanic shop 65 an hour... your comments priceless...
If you cant fix it then dont mess with it...
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Hammer Time
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Apr 24, 2010, 3:54 PM
Post #38 of 90
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I don't know where you live but all those prices sound low. Nobody with any knowledge or equipment works for $65 an hour around here. Most are well over $80 and $90. The clutch parts are rarely sold separately. Your numbers make it sound good but I'm a bit pessimistic on the whole thing. Once you start messing with that compressor, you own it.
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alienshadow
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Apr 24, 2010, 4:25 PM
Post #39 of 90
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Re: 1993 chevy k1500.. 350 engine 4x4
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Hammer I am going to go ahead and have it replaced as you say do.. Its under warranty But I will ask for a brand new one if not I will pay the differance... I agree with what you say.. Hopefully Oreilys will help me along with the warranty claim and labor claim lucky for me I have all the paper work.. Wish I would of went new to start with but I didnt know any better.. I live in a small town in North Carolina.. Average mechanic shop starts at 55 to a 100 per hr depends on where you go.. I have a back yard mechanic who worked for chevy for 25 yrs.. He didnt do the a/c however he was bad off at the time... That was the price for the pulley..
If you cant fix it then dont mess with it...
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Hammer Time
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Apr 24, 2010, 4:56 PM
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I think your making the right move. Moving up to new should end your problems. Just remember that the Reman usually comes with oil in it and most of the new ones don't so you'll likely have to add some oil, depending how much comes out with the old compressor.
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alienshadow
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Apr 24, 2010, 5:04 PM
Post #41 of 90
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Re: 1993 chevy k1500.. 350 engine 4x4
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I had to buy oil with the reman... I am guessing the mechanic will start from scratch.. Dye and all correct? Guess I will have to buy a new dryer also..
If you cant fix it then dont mess with it...
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Hammer Time
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Apr 24, 2010, 5:08 PM
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No, I wouldn't buy a dryer. The one you just put on is fine. Just don't leave the system open too long, especially in wet weather. Capping the hoses will help keep the moisture out. Just give it a good vacuum before charging.
You won't need more dye either. That is still in there.
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alienshadow
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Apr 24, 2010, 6:07 PM
Post #43 of 90
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Re: 1993 chevy k1500.. 350 engine 4x4
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I did not realize you could just swap one out.. Maybe that way it will be cheaper.. I will need more fron correct?
If you cant fix it then dont mess with it...
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Hammer Time
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Apr 24, 2010, 6:12 PM
Post #44 of 90
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Not if you use a recovery machine to capture it and put it back in. It's reusable.
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alienshadow
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Apr 24, 2010, 6:25 PM
Post #45 of 90
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Re: 1993 chevy k1500.. 350 engine 4x4
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I will ask them... I dont understand why they sell reman units if the failure is so bad.... Like you said I could of got a new one for about 50 bucks more.. I cant go back in time.. Funny thing is the shop that put it in for me told me afterwards.. He said is that a reman I said yes he said it wont last long.. Now why didnt he call me and say hey take it back and get a new one... On top of it I cant find the receipt from the shop I hope they have a copy.. Just my luck...
Off subject here but where can I post my Harley I have for sale on this site??
If you cant fix it then dont mess with it...
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Hammer Time
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Apr 24, 2010, 6:34 PM
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One thing you will find about this world. They will sell anything that they can convince someone to buy. It really doesn't matter if it works or has any value at all. If someone will buy it, they will continue to sell it. You are seeing a trend though that more and more parts stores are not carrying Remans any more. they are sick of the problems too. There are some companies that make better ones than the average but they still don't compare to new.
As far as your bike, this is more of a discussion forum. They don't really have a "for sale" section. You could probably get away with posting it in the "Bargain Bin" category but that is more of a parts category. We delete any advertising links that are posted in the discussion forums.
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alienshadow
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Apr 24, 2010, 6:38 PM
Post #47 of 90
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Thanks Hammer for helping me out today.. Yeah I dont want to get banned from here.. nI have it on CL but no luck yet... Will let you know what happens Monday.. I guess its okay to drive..until then
If you cant fix it then dont mess with it...
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Tom Greenleaf
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Apr 24, 2010, 10:42 PM
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Alien and HT,
I don't have the exacting details for advertising but a one time place to sell something is here called the "Bargain Bin" which as far as I know is fine to post your Harley. If you were putting it all over the site you would need approval from ownership. The side ads you do see are paid for allowing this site to be free to use.
Site is not here for widespread ads, links to other sites, spam and stuff like that. Until told otherwise I believe that spot is fine to sell your Harley.
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Back to the A/C:
Alien - can you talk to "O'Reilly's (wasn't that the source for compressor?) and see if you can get full credit towards the new compressor? By all rights the shop would want to get paid for the swap, some oil, O rings are cheap, and the time to recover, vac and charge up again.
Side note on rebuilt parts: There really isn't a great reason why it can't be done and with high dependability. Trouble is like anything else is the re-builders too often rely on too many used parts or cheap new parts in the item they rebuild. Paint is cheap and they look great in the box. They shouldn't have but probably did re-use the clutch on the unit you got. It may have been the problem from the person who replaced it to begin with.
Here - some places want a "core" even with new parts! They don't get the clutch back as I want it if good (some are) and they next person should get a new one with a rebuilt IMO along with it's new bearing.
Speaking of bearings: The best used to be made in USA, Canada which lost ground to super cheap Chinese bearing makers. Not here to bash Chinese parts as they also can make some of the best but also make some of the cheapest junk. Nobody wins when a part fails. A parts retailer should be wise to that and stop carrying a line if too many come back. The bummer with a compressor is a bad part if it fails by seizing up can trash more items really messing up any bargains.
Hope you can work something out between parts outlet and the shop to get this straightened out. At some point you'll have to do something or the belt won't stay on - never mind cool air!
T
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alienshadow
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Apr 26, 2010, 6:29 AM
Post #49 of 90
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Re: 1993 chevy k1500.. 350 engine 4x4
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Okay guys took the truck to the shop and the guy said it was nothing.. He said it was the clutch plate rubbing a little and that if adjusted it would work itself right back to that same spot...Didnt believe him got a 2nd opinion and told the same thing.. So I guess I will let it ride and see what happens.. Any input would be great... I guess things like this happen I was also told this style compressor was nosiey anyway...
If you cant fix it then dont mess with it...
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Tom Greenleaf
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Apr 26, 2010, 6:55 AM
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I don't agree with either of them right now. If they thought the gap was too close and was the cause of the noise then it probably would wear itself larger over time and go away not get closer over time. That unless there's something wrong with the clutch overall, bent, spring(s) not working (those work by hand if pushed) none of which is common to a new clutch. Clutch alone for an R4 compressor which this probably is and they are noisier (a busy sound not out of control) than some others is around $100 +/-.
Does this wobble at all on or off? If you spray water on the belt does that change the noise? Is belt flopping around - usually that would be when engaged with the load if so. Is the belt on right? Check that its exactly in place on each pulley. Count the grooves in the clutch and another pulley - do they match? Is the belt in a near perfect plane as seen from side? There's a lot that could be obvious to us that doesn't come to mind as we aren't there. I'll see if I can post belt routing diagram below as seen from front. From side it really shouldn't deviate much over the width of the belt!
T
7-8 is without 120 amp alternator
7-14 is with 120 amp alternator.
CS = Crankshaft as seen thru grille should be routed like this....This could be wrong but so far so good with that place that has the diagrams
(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on Apr 26, 2010, 7:02 AM)
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