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Low side pressure too low at 40-50 MPH
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jvel2012
User
Sep 21, 2012, 11:49 PM
Post #26 of 31
(1543 views)
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Re: Low side pressure too low at 40-50 MPH
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I will replace the drier hopefully on Saturday. I do have to work on Saturday on a few HVAC calls. But I hope to get some time at the end of the day.
Thanks for the help.
Joe
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jvel2012
User
Sep 21, 2012, 11:59 PM
Post #27 of 31
(1543 views)
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Re: Low side pressure too low at 40-50 MPH
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It has been weeks since I had the thermometer in the output vents, but I think it was around 55 degrees. It would stay at 55 until the compressor quit. The compressor would not come back on for 20 minutes. It didn't matter if I was at an idle or driving, it would take around 20 minutes for the compressor to come back on.
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jvel2012
User
Sep 22, 2012, 12:16 AM
Post #28 of 31
(1542 views)
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Re: Low side pressure too low at 40-50 MPH
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I did make a mistake on the high side that I wrote.
I was at 300 at idle but when low side went to 20-25 the high side dropped about 50-100 to 200 to 250. I don't know how I would have said high side dropped to 10-15.
I do read what I write before replying, but I must have missed that 10-15 statement. sorry
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jvel2012
User
Sep 22, 2012, 12:21 AM
Post #29 of 31
(1542 views)
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Re: Low side pressure too low at 40-50 MPH
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And what would be considered too high? I thought going over 300 on high side is too high and I don't know autos.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Sep 22, 2012, 1:49 AM
Post #30 of 31
(1531 views)
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Re: Low side pressure too low at 40-50 MPH
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Joe - Forget HVAC while fussing with MVAC (aka Motor Vehicle Air Conditioning) mostly because the conditions are different to a moving target with various heat transferring air volume, the resident time of that air, compressor to adapt to engine RPM not just on or off like an electric home unit, constantly changing exact ambient temps in thru condenser, radiant heat from engines and its cooling system and throw in pressure and temp monitoring algorithms at given times by computer to make instant changes in conjunction with mechanical changes.
Expansion valve systems can capture the magic of superheat better the orifice tube with an accumulator to catch liquid basically before it tries to re-compress it.
If a gas is known pure and contained you know the pressure if you know the temp and vs verse. Fast and accurate temp measuring really helps if reduced to "winging it" without knowing the known listed weight of charge. A/C specific meat thermometers are good but slow to me. Infrared point and shoot is awesome but flawed in some applications or areas but can show a sudden change along items alerting you to a restriction. My choice is wired remote thermometers either meant for home or vehicle use as most are fast enough. Wireless is too slow for me.
This link is a locked/stuck thread above in this section with or without live links in it at any given time but worth a read or print it as a guide as to what to expect at given temps if everything is normal. When not then you go from there.
http://autoforums.carjunky.com/..._A/C_SYSTEMS_P45460/
I'll plain re-post a temp/pressure chart that is already here not stuck up top. Know that exactly where you get your temps will be situation specific too. For motor vehicles use center vent outputs and air temp coming into condenser not a day's forecast.
Hope that helps some. The charge weight already mentioned was already found for your own vehicle, specific to that vehicle to behave its best under the assorted conditions it will be exposed to,
T
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