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Need fast help! PLEASE I GOT TO GET TO WORK
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petet1234
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Aug 26, 2011, 1:53 PM
Post #26 of 57
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Re: Need fast help! PLEASE I GOT TO GET TO WORK
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I got the comp. tester do you pull one plug at a time or do you have to pull them all then check each one?
How the  do you get the last plug? I can get the socket on it but not a small ext and you can't just put the ratchet to it no room. I tried to reach up from under the car and it's worse
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petet1234
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Aug 26, 2011, 2:26 PM
Post #27 of 57
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Re: Need fast help! PLEASE I GOT TO GET TO WORK
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I got the cap and rotor changed out. The little metal end part on the rotor looked a little messed up (a little chewed up) and got half the plugs and wires changed. So I figured I'd try it to see if I was just wasting time doing this it turned a bunch of times then fired up but it really sounded like crap so I turned it off and changed the next 2 plugs and wires now i'm on the last plug and wire and I can't get at it. Any ideas?
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petet1234
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Aug 26, 2011, 5:00 PM
Post #28 of 57
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Re: Need fast help! PLEASE I GOT TO GET TO WORK
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anybody?
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Aug 26, 2011, 5:05 PM
Post #29 of 57
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Re: Need fast help! PLEASE I GOT TO GET TO WORK
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Keep your shirt on. We have jobs too. I'm sure he will be along when he can.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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petet1234
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Aug 26, 2011, 7:04 PM
Post #30 of 57
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Re: Need fast help! PLEASE I GOT TO GET TO WORK
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OK I didn't know I could only talk to one person on here!
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
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Aug 26, 2011, 7:10 PM
Post #31 of 57
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Re: Need fast help! PLEASE I GOT TO GET TO WORK
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Hammer you can jump in anytime you want. I don't mind...
To perform a static compression check you have do these things:
Remove all the spark plugs
Disable the ignition and fuel systems. Note: You can do that by unplugging the electrical connector from the distributor.
Make sure the battery is good and fully charged. You want good constant cranking speed or your results won't be consistent.
Screw the gauge into a hole and then have someone crank the engine while they hold the gas pedal to the floor. The compression should build up quickly and top out around 4 to 5 compression strokes. Record your results. Move onto the next cylinder and repeat.
Does your ratchet have a swivel head on it to change the angle of the handle? That will make getting the plug out easier.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Aug 26, 2011, 7:11 PM)
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petet1234
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Aug 26, 2011, 7:23 PM
Post #32 of 57
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Someone is bringing me something by to help get the plug out hopefully it works. Do you think I need to do the comp test first? Should I just go ahead and change the last plug then see how she runs first. I only let it run for like 1 min and I was thinking maybe it was running rough because air in the fuel line from when I pulled it to check it. Also the engine could use a cleaning not 100% sure if any of the crap (grease) around the plugs might have made it in the hole.
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
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Aug 26, 2011, 7:28 PM
Post #33 of 57
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Re: Need fast help! PLEASE I GOT TO GET TO WORK
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Well, it would be easier to perform the compression check before installing your new plugs. You don't want to drag any of your plugs through gunk on its way into the spark plug hole. If you get a wad of gunge between the electrodes, the spark might not be able to make it across.
Sounds like you need a set of valve cover gaskets...
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Aug 26, 2011, 7:28 PM)
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petet1234
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Aug 26, 2011, 7:34 PM
Post #34 of 57
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I got all the new cap,rotor,plugs and wires in ecpt for the one. If any of the crap did get in there will it burn off?
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
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Aug 26, 2011, 7:51 PM
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If you mistakenly got it packed between the electrodes, the spark can't jump the gap correctly. It would be hard to burn something like that off if the fuel and air mixture doesn't ignite.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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Discretesignals
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Aug 26, 2011, 8:53 PM
Post #36 of 57
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Be sure to get your wires installed in the right order. If you get wires switched, it will run like a bag of turds.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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Tom Greenleaf
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Aug 27, 2011, 1:17 AM
Post #37 of 57
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Re: Need fast help! PLEASE I GOT TO GET TO WORK
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Others watch Pete and if no comments than no other thoughts basically. Free site, ask for your money back. Better yet, donate to it!
T
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petet1234
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Aug 27, 2011, 6:49 AM
Post #38 of 57
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thanks I did change 1 plug and 1 wire at a time so I didn't get things messed up.
While I was waiting for my friend to bring over the tool (to replace the last plug) I tried to start it and it was not good it ran super rough then went smoother but with a rod knock sound and tapping with some blue smoke just when it started.
The knocking sound is coming from #1 (the plug I still need to change) or #3
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petet1234
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Aug 27, 2011, 7:19 AM
Post #39 of 57
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I did check the old it is a qt low
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
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Aug 27, 2011, 7:27 AM
Post #40 of 57
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Is it a knocking noise or more like a tapping noise? The MMC 3.0L that you have was known for burning oil and having noisy lash adjusters. The bottom end of those engine were rock solid, but it was the heads that gave the engine trouble. It was mainly due to valve guides/seals allowing engine oil to run down the valve shaft and into the combustion chambers causing that puff of blue smoke when you took off from a lights. They were also known for dropping valve guides.
Hopefully changing the last plug clears things up.
The excessive crank times would seems like it was due to the engine not getting fuel. To confirm that possibility you would have to connect a fuel pressure gauge up and see what the pressure is when the delayed starting is occurring. Unfortunately, Chrysler didn't put a test port anywhere to connect a fuel pressure gauge, so you have to use adapters to tee into the the fuel supply line to connect your gauge to.
It still would have been nice to know what your compression test result were.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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petet1234
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Aug 27, 2011, 7:53 AM
Post #41 of 57
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it's knocking and tapping. There has always (years) been a little tapping some days louder than others. It does start pretty fast now. Do you really think that changing the last plug could clear things up? Just to get the new wire on the old plug (the plug I couldn't change took forever)
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
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Aug 27, 2011, 7:57 AM
Post #42 of 57
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Don't really know if the engine will clear up after changing the last plug. You'll have to find that answer out by changing the last plug. The tune up needed to be done anyhow, so that eliminates that possibility.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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petet1234
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Aug 27, 2011, 8:00 AM
Post #43 of 57
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yeah I know but that plug is fustrating! If you see someone on the news lighting his van on fire that would be me
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
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Aug 27, 2011, 8:06 AM
Post #44 of 57
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Just make sure if you light it, it isn't parked in your garage. If it is, make sure you have good home insurance. Maybe you could use the money to buy a Dodge Viper...
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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petet1234
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Aug 27, 2011, 8:14 AM
Post #45 of 57
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LOL that will be the 2nd part of the news story homeless guy that lives in his new viper. I'm going to go and give this a shot i'll let you know what happens or check the news 
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Aug 27, 2011, 9:29 AM
Post #46 of 57
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Pete: At the end of the game a car is only a car and only reasonable to fix for so long. Don't get mad at them as they don't care - trust me!
Not a dealer but have owned 100s of cars. A couple just weren't worth it given to me. Gotta know what's wrong (diagnosis) or you are wasting time and money. Just my opinion,
Tom
PS: Some not worth the match to end it all......
(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on Aug 27, 2011, 9:36 AM)
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petet1234
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Aug 27, 2011, 10:43 AM
Post #47 of 57
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Yes I know it's no use getting mad at it. I was never really mad but it is fustrating. Someone brought over a swivel socket ext. that didn't help me at all. Hopefully he is going to stop by after work and give it a shot. He is betting because of how tough it is to get at that more than likely it was never changed.
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petet1234
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Aug 27, 2011, 4:23 PM
Post #48 of 57
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So we got the last plug changed out and he tested the comp (the comp is good) it starts right up like it always did and seems to run fine but it has the knock at #1 or #3 we rechecked to make sure all the plugs and wires were clean and were they should be. Any ideas
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petet1234
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Aug 27, 2011, 4:31 PM
Post #49 of 57
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also do you know of any additives to quite the knocking if we just can't figure it out
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petet1234
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Aug 27, 2011, 7:06 PM
Post #50 of 57
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any thoughts on were I should go from here?
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