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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 29, 2015, 1:06 PM
Post #26 of 73
(1352 views)
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Pretty sure of that but isn't a point now for this. Reason is it's fuel under pressure vs the rear to tank and in a collision if engine was still running they think metal wont leak as easy - never saw OE otherwise. Had to move a couple + did use best fuel injection hose not metal to stop vapor lock as the metal one got too hot!
****************
Not yet any issue either way - let's see if this engine can run at all now carb or not? Tom
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 29, 2015, 1:14 PM
Post #27 of 73
(1347 views)
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Just about every Asian manufacturer uses rubber line and clamps to the fuel rail with 30 to 40 PSI. The carb system has about 3 to 4 PSI.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 29, 2015, 1:20 PM
Post #28 of 73
(1341 views)
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If it meets spec so be it. Not the point at all yet, T
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Jumpskin
User
Nov 29, 2015, 5:38 PM
Post #29 of 73
(1332 views)
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What symptoms should I be looking for if it had sat to long without oil circulating? I turned over well before flooding the other day so it wasn't locked up. The carb kit I bought includes:
Viton tip needle & seat - includes the clip & splash guard
Float bowl gasket
Power valve w/gasket - standard single stage
Power valve cover gasket
Venturi cluster gasket
Primary accelerator pump diaphragm
Pump check valve
Thermostat gasket
Main discharge check ball
Choke housing gasket
Pump rod retainer
I also have ordered a new float. Will this be enough to rebuild properly?
Here is the link to the rebuild kit: Link deleted .................. not allowed
(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Nov 29, 2015, 6:10 PM)
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 29, 2015, 6:12 PM
Post #30 of 73
(1320 views)
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What's in the kit isn't the issue. It's the knowledge, chemicals, equipment and experience in setting up a carburetor that you don't have. This is a skilled trade in itself.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Jumpskin
User
Nov 29, 2015, 7:00 PM
Post #31 of 73
(1312 views)
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Gotta start somewhere and i'll either learn to reassemble or learn how not to reassemble a carb and will have to replace which I would have to do anyway if I did not try to rebuild. Will these parts work if there was sufficient know how? Is there a better place you would suggest I start to learn?
(This post was edited by Jumpskin on Nov 29, 2015, 7:01 PM)
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 29, 2015, 7:06 PM
Post #32 of 73
(1308 views)
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OK, do it your way..............go for it
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Jumpskin
User
Nov 29, 2015, 8:11 PM
Post #33 of 73
(1302 views)
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Don't get me wrong, I am in no way disregarding your advice, but don't see how it could hurt more than the $30 gasket kit. If I am going to tear up the engine somehow by doing this then please let me know. In my previous post I was not trying to be disrespectful, but truly wanted to know if there was a better place to start. Sorry if I caused any misunderstanding.
(This post was edited by Jumpskin on Nov 29, 2015, 8:34 PM)
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 30, 2015, 12:25 AM
Post #34 of 73
(1292 views)
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Jumpskin: I still suggest making this engine run now with it together as earlier stated you can if ignition is even close just spray into throttle body but disable fuel from vehicle. That to get engine oil circulated now.
With time and the kit you can do a good cleaning but that's really all the kit is good for - gaskets you might tear in taking it apart.
Depending on original or existing carb it may have tamper proof items like idle adjustment screws, choke thermostat may be riveted and kit should have screws from where you drill those out. Things like that. OE exposed or hidden idle mix screws are probably "clutch" headed and it's not about changing them, you need them and choke's black thermostat off to clean out vacuum ports.
Final adjustment if the engine is any good at all which we don't know is done with it running both cold and warmed up if it was new out of a box.
You like the web and so do I. Look up what they have for carb tools - tons for assorted carbs and some handy for other things too. They aren't cheap.
Just FYI on the kits. 1/2 of what comes in that you won't need, isn't for this exact one so could have two as that's easier and cheaper to sell that way.
Must pay attention to not break things. Clean area to work with carb alone and don't turn it upside down once you have it apart!
I worry most that is hasn't run for a year, ran lousy for many years before that and what was hacked or cobbled up to make it ever work at all,
T
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Jumpskin
User
Nov 30, 2015, 8:24 AM
Post #35 of 73
(1279 views)
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I will try to get it running today. I have completely disassembled the carb by following step by step directions with pics I found on a website. The only thing I did not take apart was the choke because the site said it was optional and most of the time not needed. Do you advise I disassemble it also? The kit I ordered was called the Motorcraft 2150 kit. Will it be a generic kit with parts for more than this one?
As you said this was not the point now, but I was wondering about the rubber line leading to the carb. The carb has a filter with a rubber fun line fitting screwed into it like it was made to use a rubber fuel line. Was that added later? Like you said the engine might be "hacked and cobbled" together and it might have been a later addition.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 30, 2015, 9:36 AM
Post #36 of 73
(1272 views)
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Jumpskin: Don't worry about the hose as long as it's good and not rubbing anything.
Choke if you mean "its thermostat housing" you can do on vehicle later and know if it needs anything with a simple test. When this thing runs plug off hose to air cleaner so you can watch it as it warms up. The black round thing has a bi-metal spring to shut choke when cold and get heat from intake manifold where exhaust heat criss/crosses I think on those slowly via an on purpose vacuum leak inside there. The housing will feel warm to hot and choke plate should shut off (straight up) at a rate of engine warming up to run well both warm and cold. If not the vacuum hole inside probably isn't drawing vacuum or exhaust heated vapor not getting in.
That would mean you both spray them clean till open up to fine wire too, compressed air till it works.
Suggestions on the web or in print mean little vs the thing you are working on in front of you. Said - I love the web but watch out too as it's full of bullcrap and plain wrong info too that never gets corrected.
What would aggravate those tiny ports is frequently carbon from running lousy (rings a bell!) could be from fuel or oil burning. Lousy oil change history, sludge wrecks everything, blow-by from a worn engine will fill crankcase with too much oily smoke and be sucked in thru PCV and begin to clog things up.
Trick for this engine and others if PCV is actively working smoke will go DOWN the tube that holds your dipstick for oil not blow back out.
About wire I mentioned. Cheap and nice to have for assorted use. About the size of what is inside a twisty tie used like on a loaf of bread or the craft area of department stores as it's used to tie thing especially real or silk flower arrangements in place colored with dark green both keeps it from rusting while stored but is what I use. It's fine like fish line just wire. IDK why but my own usual parts store doesn't sell it?
BTT - if working forget it. The cover must be air tight and if kit didn't come with a gasket for that they expect you to use old one which is fine unless wrecked and doubt easy to find alone.
Hey - a carb really makes sense for what they can do or did for ages when all is well. Same job as any idea -deliver correct air to fuel mixture so it will run properly when compressed inside the cylinders. No real magic that's the objective for that.
They do take time this one much less than some,
T
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Jumpskin
User
Nov 30, 2015, 9:44 AM
Post #37 of 73
(1269 views)
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Thanks so much for your help! I will clean the carb and get it back together and start checking some of those other possible problems. How can I tell if my engine is burning oil? will it just be very smoky exhaust? Thanks for that twist tie tip also, i'll give it a try.
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Jumpskin
User
Nov 30, 2015, 9:46 AM
Post #38 of 73
(1268 views)
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I also just changed the oil and filter and it did not look to bad. It has been changed every 3 to 5000 miles for the past 15-16 years at least (since my dad owned it). How else could you tell it was not changed frequently enough?
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 30, 2015, 11:50 AM
Post #39 of 73
(1259 views)
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Refresh - wire LIKE that of a twisty tie. If exactly those burn off the paper or plastic and wipe clean - was just pointing out they sell the stuff as wire only.
* Oil burning? You would consume more than you think it should for "X" # of miles. If not leaking and can make smoke out tail pipe that's way too much if from plain wear.
* You asked how to tell if not often enough? Well - quality of oil does vary plus use the engine gets. Looking under oil filler cap, top part of a dipstick are quick clues or pulling a valve cover off for good look better. If gooy, sludgy or worse about like fudge that's been burned it's way to bad. A or B if so. Change oil more often and it should slowly clear up. Damage if that far wont heal.
If that bad most engines that get used will fail from it throwing clots of junk such that parts don't get oiled.
Garaged vehicles that are run to fully warm regularly, don't overheat oil does well. Don't try to flush one out as it's too fast.
Now you may ask how often? Hard to peg that exactly but count both miles and time and go by suggestions in all owner's manuals or if not used much or hard use or exposure more often like 3mo. or 3,000 for many and if you choose correct viscosity of synthetics a bit longer is OK - don't believe those that say 15,000 mile oil - that's pure bull.
Checks on wear include compression testing or easy that real good one the oil pressure will read in normal area of a gauge very quickly, oil light types the light goes out almost instantly. Any noise/ticking on cold starts that takes a while is a bad sign.
It's not an exact science how long. You can also just take care of them like crazy and have bad luck.
Of all things and vehicle's being in the top few expenses most people don't read an owner's manual especially maintenance intervals!. Apply some common sense not some "app" on some device handy as they are.
I can be harder but also handy to know when to send stuff out and when it's no longer practical to keep a whole vehicle.
Don't think I can stop you so keep on truckin'..........
T
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Jumpskin
User
Nov 30, 2015, 2:38 PM
Post #40 of 73
(1252 views)
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Thanks. I'll look over those points. Like you said it might be time to send stuff out, but I could probably get a better price if the truck was running than not.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 30, 2015, 3:53 PM
Post #41 of 73
(1245 views)
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For sure you'll get more for a vehicle that runs vs dead of any type.
YOU need to make the educated guess as to what expense can be justified for the vehicle or repair vs sending out. I did bite for carb work even from busy shops with "important" regular customers to keep happy and not spend so much time on one vehicle when a line of work was waiting. If it would tie up a bay of the shop it plain wasn't worth it.
Right now if you send a carb out to a shop you also have to find the right shop who even wants that work and still even remember where they stuck all the tools that make it faster. Buying them all new again would be a waste for one job so almost all suggestions are going to be buy a ready to bolt down rebuilt or new one same with other parts now ongoing.
Done with it except my own now but still have the tools and would for certain people if given no rush order. Have a whole box full of those "rebuild" kits with all the gaskets, balls, plunger things, clips, rods and more that were in the kit not needed for that job but might for another.
I would consider this carb easy as they go and don't really need ANY special tools if you already have a lot of assorted tools which techs do and go broke over!
It's an expensive addiction is about what it is!
T
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Jumpskin
User
Nov 30, 2015, 7:59 PM
Post #42 of 73
(1235 views)
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I enjoy working on engines, especially older engines and hope to do all of my auto work in the future. I have recently started getting more into auto work because I got a $4500 quote for my 01 Tundra and did all of the work myself (brakes, sway bar end links, etc.) except the timing belt/water pump and also bought all of the tools I needed and premium parts and came out with a $1750 bill including the water pump/timing belt with hydraulic tensioner upgrade. The tools are expensive, but when you are paying $100 hour you can get a lot of tools. Plus it is really enjoyable working on engines! I hope the engine will be running after this carb work and ready to sell (though I like working on the engine much better than a modern 01 engine).
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Jumpskin
User
Nov 30, 2015, 8:02 PM
Post #43 of 73
(1234 views)
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That price also includes mistakes such as incorrectly disassembling a caliper and having to replace it and still came out way ahead. The brakes are still working for now so I might have even done them right!
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Jumpskin
User
Nov 30, 2015, 8:04 PM
Post #44 of 73
(1233 views)
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I am trying to keep the budget for this Bronco engine under $500 and am currently at $200 with gasket kit. I know if I had someone do the water pump for me it would have been $800 alone.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 1, 2015, 12:41 AM
Post #45 of 73
(1230 views)
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Sport - Switch subject for a minute. I CAN'T THINK OF ONE BRAKE CALIPER THAT REBUIDING YOURSELF IS CHEAPER NOW THAN SWAPPING FOR ONE ALREADY DONE! You are playing with fire even trying to do that for this vehicle a whole caliper my cost wholesale is less than $20 the kit is more and doesn't include a new or checked piston, bleeder screw etc. Much, much older when disc brakes were not common you did redo your own as needed - no comparison.
Learning is great but let's keep it to getting this to run not brakes as what you just said clearly (to me) suggests you shouldn't be learning alone on brakes, YouTube crap on how it's so easy bull you are risking lives messing up brakes! NO - that you get some real experienced hands on help with.
Not mad at you just don't use a deadly weapon (any vehicle) such as brakes as a learning experience when they fail learning how to do them properly by or with people who do.
Stick to making it run currently work with the carb and doubt it will end there no matter what with history, mix matched engine, age of both plus time just dead sitting around.
Saving a buck is no surprise but can also bite you. Knowing the difference is the game.
Thread is long enough so let's focus on one issue at a time till solved and move on to next as a separate issue and summary of how you got there and what this is,
T
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Jumpskin
User
Dec 1, 2015, 9:05 AM
Post #46 of 73
(1220 views)
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I didn't rebuild the caliper, but replaced it on may 01 Tundra. I also was worried about my know how so everything I did I then took to a mechanic for an inspection to make sure I did it right which he did for $75.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 1, 2015, 9:41 AM
Post #47 of 73
(1215 views)
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OK - Just my own and much of the regulars will NOT suggest learning with brakes. Any type vehicle any year.
Back to carbs and reasons: TMK gone now for automotive use for quite some time. Nothing wrong just way to hard to continue altering them to meet requirements for emissions AND fuel MPG averages for a company called CAFE = Corporate Average Fuel Economy and much faster to use instant control of injection than a carb and been so long fewer techs will recall some snags from working on them. During this transition dang ethanol was forced on us to use not optional. Well it isn't compatible with certain items that are not designed for it and where I am no option to buy fuel without it easily anyway.
It's part of the picture when having problems with now old engines.
Back to work. I feel it my responsibility to warn members here not knowing their experience, equipment available or situation matters.
There's plenty that dangerous to deadly about working with hoisting heavy things, dealing with toxic products, flammable ones. Brakes are their own danger by nature.
Let me/us know how you are making out with this so far,
T
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Jumpskin
User
Dec 1, 2015, 9:55 AM
Post #48 of 73
(1212 views)
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I just called Fedex to see when the carb cleaning solution was going to arrive and was told since they tried to deliver once and I was not there they were returning to sender so I have reordered and am going to receive it Thursday. I better be here for the one chance Fedex gives me.
Why did they start using ethanol seeing it takes more energy to make than it creates? I don't remember leaded gas (i'm 19), but found some gas in a garage behind my granddads house from a long time ago and it still burned well on the ground (I didn't put it in any engine to test it because I did not want to mess it up.) Does ethanol give you any hp advantage?
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 1, 2015, 11:08 AM
Post #49 of 73
(1205 views)
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Ethanol IMO was more political than practical. It's subsidized and forced to make it or wouldn't be self sustaining. Hey - these ideas don't have to be good just voted on by people with an agenda - different game again as it's here.
Old fuel should really be discarded. No telling what you really have even if filtered.
Tetraethyl lead was used such that you could make higher octane ratings out of lower/cheaper levels of fuel for it's anti-knock rating for pennies but also very hard on deposits in engines, made a good if stored too long, fouled plugs and more. It's toxic as well was enough reason to eliminate it and generally not compatible with emission items.
It's trivia now but gasoline was sold for ages without lead called "White Gas" for marine use, storing seasonal vehicles but lots more expensive and I only recall it wasn't sold out at the regular drive up to pumps rather out back of gas stations.
You'll freak but if the leaded stuff was 26.9 cents the unleaded would be about 35.9 cents always high octane as I recall too. There were "Gas Wars" and it would drop to like 17.9cents as a spiteful game with competing gas stations! A gimmick game for attention more than anything.
It now has no use in fuel that I know of.
It's not relevant to you Bronco at all now.
Curious - how much could you think you saved by buying carb solvents by mail/delivery vs just go getting it? It's dirt cheap if you don't buy a brand name - just bought some for $1.99 a can @ the infamous WallyWorld. Whatever.
Again - where are you at with this project?
T
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Jumpskin
User
Dec 1, 2015, 12:30 PM
Post #50 of 73
(1197 views)
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Good info on the gas, very interesting. I wish I could buy gas with change I found in my truck.
On the Bronco I have completely disassembled the carb and am waiting for the cleaner and gaskets which are supposed to both arrive by Thursday morning. I am going to try and start without the carb on like you said earlier with some spray. I have not been able to try because of finals this week. I have two kinds of carb cleaner spray (which I got at Home Depot like you said. The cleaner I am waiting for is something you can soak the parts in). How can I tell if the carb cleaner will work for starting the engine?
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Please Help - Knock sound & engine fail
