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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Apr 9, 2013, 11:22 AM
Post #101 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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Timken was once one of the best & I think one called BCA, either made in US or Canada they are good. Watch out big time for Chinese bearings.
Loctite: Read the package as I'm not sure if anything changed. Not for this application but when I have serious worries in other things I will nick the threads (bad trick but can work) and they will not rattle loose. Again not for this job.
Truth is and with experiments used ''thread lock'' as a test on a new nut and bolt, let it set for days and had no trouble undoing it. Worries me.
I'll tell you MG - you have some amazing tolerance for details (necessary too) and I just know this job will come out fine, - Tom
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MarineGrunt
Enthusiast
Apr 9, 2013, 11:41 AM
Post #102 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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Thanks Tom. I can thank my parents, and the Marine Corps, for my attention to detail. They really embedded that in my head in the Corps. Plus, I hate things to come back and bite me. One little miss and I could end up having to buy all the parts all over again. I don't mind redoing things. I just hate the cost of mistakes.
I'm pretty sure I should use the red but want to make sure. I don't plan on ever having to remove them again. At least I hope so! I too haven't had too much trouble removing bolts with the red. An impact usually rattles everything loose. If not, a 6' cheater bar works too! I've heard a little heat will melt that red Loctite anyways.
I'm just glad that bearing deal panned out.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Apr 9, 2013, 12:07 PM
Post #103 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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I have that and near fired at a shop for taking too long for something sensitive whatever it was. Got good at the carbs and dash work. Re-calibrated a mechanical speedometer - stuff like that. No choice - antique vehicle and no just find parts so easy. Takes forever but can be done.
Loctite: Yes, just propane torch heat if spot allows it's defeated. FYI - too hot on a special hardened bolt wrecks it for its intended strength - if you get one to glowing it's not ever the same. Doesn't matter for some things like exhaust bull which is the crudest plumbing really. Certain brake bolts I'll do anything not to use heat.
Side topic but I'm a skinny thing and not real strong so depend on the tools and thinking. Somewhere along with doing enough you also just feel how much force you can put on something before you snap nuts, bolts, screws and fasteners all over vehicles. There are torque specs for about everything but you do get a 'feel' for what's right. In this job guessing isn't good enough, you have to know.
Back several, Nicks pizza oven and freezer really does work for certain things, - Tom
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Apr 9, 2013, 3:32 PM
Post #104 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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The red is permanent and the blue is semi-permanent. To tell you the truth, I wouldn't use anything. Just tighten them to the correct torque unless you find it was used from the factory when you removed them. I doubt it.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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nickwarner
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Apr 9, 2013, 3:42 PM
Post #105 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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Red loctite on the ring gear bolts. You don't want them coming loose. Blue on the bearing cap bolts and pinion nut.
White stuff is likely grease residue, possibly a bit of sealant if someone had a bit of seepage through the yoke splines.
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nickwarner
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Apr 9, 2013, 3:46 PM
Post #106 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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Went without loctite on a Rockwell once. Used the torque wrench and everything per the book, couple days later the main bearing caps loosened and trashed the whole works.
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
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Apr 9, 2013, 6:24 PM
Post #107 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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I haven't been watching this thread, but just caught up on it.
You might be Sh!tcanning the carrier shims. With different carrier bearings you have to not only make changes to the backlash, but you have to preload the bearings so you can determine the backlash adjustment. Once you set the backlash then you have to make the final preload adjustment. If the carrier bearing preload is off, it will either toast the bearings or they will be loose causing your backlash to change. Setting carrier bearing preload and backlash has quite of few steps to it and requires special tools. You'll have to look at the service information. Setting up a rear end is kind of a lost art.
Do a runout of the ring gear on its backside with it inside the housing. You don't want your pinion depth constantly changing because the run out is off.
I don't know about the bearings. Non oem pinion bearings and races can throw off the pinion depth. I'd try to find the exact pinion bearings/races for that, so you don't have to go setting pinion depth. Using non oem carrier bearings probably won't matter because your going to be setting preload and backlash because of a different carrier.
I had a Dodge Ram I put a couple of aftermarket pinion bearings in and it threw off the pinion depth. I didn't want to go through the whole rigamarow of setting it up, so I got the OEMs from the dealer and no adjustments were needed. I've done quite a few Dodge Truck corporates and Ford 8.8s in the Expeditions (they all eat out pinion bearings...lol.)
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Apr 9, 2013, 6:55 PM)
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MarineGrunt
Enthusiast
Apr 9, 2013, 8:57 PM
Post #108 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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I pretty much have everything cleaned and ready to go. I just have a few questions on checking everything.
I made some setup bearings in order to double check pinion depth and backlash. I've read 3 different things on 3 different tutorials. I've read to leave the crush sleeve out, use the old, or use a new one. (I do know that for final installation you have to use a new one) I know I have to set preload, then backlash, and finally pinion depth but I didn't know if the crush sleeve would affect anything.
I always try to search the net before I ask questions so I have a little bit of an idea first. But, unless it's obvious, I don't trust anything until I hear it on carjunky.
Any other helpful install hints would also be appreciated.
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Apr 10, 2013, 3:29 AM
Post #109 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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Do not blow of the crush sleeve. That's what determines the preload on the pinion bearings so you need to use a new one. Once they are crushed they can't be re-used with new parts,
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
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Apr 10, 2013, 5:00 AM
Post #110 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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Use the bearings that your going to install when checking your pinion depth.
If you use the OEM pinion bearings you shouldn't have to mess with pinion depth. If you are going to use aftermarket bearings and races, you probably should check pinion depth, but you'll need a pinion depth gauge. Backlash is controlled by the carrier shims. Don't worry about backlash till you have the pinion's depth and preload done. Once you know the pinion depth is correct, then you preload the pinion bearings with the new crush sleeve and an inch pound torque wrench.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Apr 10, 2013, 5:02 AM)
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MarineGrunt
Enthusiast
Apr 10, 2013, 6:00 AM
Post #111 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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HT....I realize that I HAVE to use a new crush sleeve for final installation. I've read a bunch of tutorials and they mention double checking pinion depth using setup bearings and gear marking compound. I'm just wondering if I have to use a new crush sleeve when checking the pinion depth. If I don't have to use a crush sleeve when first checking pinion depth I would then remove the nut and put a new crush sleeve on after I verified it's correct. I was just wondering if initially checking pinion depth without a crush sleeve would affect any other measurements.
DS....So you're saying do not use setup bearings? I should just install the exact bearing that is being used for final installation? If for some reason I need to add or remove shims I should just keep pulling and pressing the new bearing on instead of using the setup bearings?
I've read that you can get away without using the special tool to measure pinion depth by using gear marking compound. I read that even if you have the tool your final check is always done by using the compound. If that's true I should be able to check and adjust all measurements on my own. It will just take a long time to do it if I have to end up adjusting shims. I don't trust what other websites say though and that's why I always ask here.
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Apr 10, 2013, 6:16 AM
Post #112 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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No, you don't need it for measuring. Just don't over tighten the pinion without it in there.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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MarineGrunt
Enthusiast
Apr 10, 2013, 6:42 AM
Post #113 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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Thanks HT...that's what I was wondering.
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MarineGrunt
Enthusiast
Apr 10, 2013, 8:16 PM
Post #114 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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That darn pinion/yoke nut was a pain. I didn't have much clearance under the truck so only got a small turn each time.
Is it necessary to clean up the gear marking compound after checking backlash and pinion depth? I plan on wiping off what I can but know I can't get it all without taking the carrier back out.
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MarineGrunt
Enthusiast
Apr 11, 2013, 11:05 AM
Post #115 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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Do you think the pattern looks good? Also, my backlash is .012. Is that good? I can't seem to find a definite number for what my backlash should be but from some specs I've seen my seems a little high.
(This post was edited by MarineGrunt on Apr 11, 2013, 1:04 PM)
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nickwarner
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Apr 11, 2013, 3:07 PM
Post #116 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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Pattern isn't too bad. Agree that .012 seems a bit high, but I don't have the specs on this one on my comp either. Glad you posted the pic up here. I have a scratched up flip phone with a small screen so was a little fuzzy when you sent it to my phone.
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MarineGrunt
Enthusiast
Apr 11, 2013, 3:27 PM
Post #117 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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I found the specs on my alldayadiy for the truck. I added .010 on the left side and subtracted .010 on the right. That gave me a backlash of .005. That's in the "preferred" range so it should be perfect. If I had some shims that were .0025 I'd go for that .006 backlash.  Not really. That carrier isn't much fun to get out. It's not too bad. I just had to work at it.
Gonna go check the pattern again. I'll post another picture. Once you guys verify the pattern it's time to get this truck back on the road.
(This post was edited by MarineGrunt on Apr 11, 2013, 3:28 PM)
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
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Apr 11, 2013, 3:59 PM
Post #118 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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The pattern on drive side of the gear looks great. How about the coast side?
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Apr 11, 2013, 4:02 PM)
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MarineGrunt
Enthusiast
Apr 11, 2013, 4:24 PM
Post #119 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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I was hoping you said it looked good cause I got out my fine tip paint brush to paint that pattern.
I thought you only had to worry about one side. Wouldn't the gears contact the same going the other way? If the drive side looks good, and the coast side doesn't, wouldn't any kind of adjustments to the coast side throw off the drive side? Or, do you just do a little "give and take" to get them both as close as possible?
Getting ready to check the pattern again after adjusting backlash. I'll post pictures of both the drive and the coast.
Thanks DS.
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
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Apr 11, 2013, 4:36 PM
Post #120 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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I was hoping to see the coast side pattern too because there may be a picture of Jesus on one of the teeth. Then we can call the news station and the local churches in your area. 
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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MarineGrunt
Enthusiast
Apr 11, 2013, 5:16 PM
Post #121 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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There's always a smart @ss in the bunch...actually, on here, it would be.... there's always a bunch of smart @$$es in the bunch. Between you, HT, and Nick. Need I say more? Tom even throws a good comment in there on occasion!
After adjusting backlash my pattern sucks. I'm too far on the toe. I think I went twice as much as I should have. Once I go back a bit I'll check the pattern and post pictures.
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MarineGrunt
Enthusiast
Apr 11, 2013, 6:29 PM
Post #122 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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I didn't have much marking compound so used white lithium mixed with what was left of the yellow compound. It didn't mark quite as well but you can still tell. I have some Prussian blue but figured it might be too dark.
After adjusting the carrier shims my backlash is now .007. Comparing the markings to charts I think it looks pretty good overall. The coast side might be a tad towards the face but doesn't seem to be too bad. The drive side still looks good. What do you think? Can I go with it? I hope so. If not I'm gonna have to talk HT into giving me one of his lifts for Christmas. I'm gonna need another back surgery after climbing under the truck as many times as I have today.
Another question. The c-clips. What keeps them from falling out? I know you push the axles in, install clips, and push the axle out. What keeps those axles from sliding back in enough for the clips to fall out? It seems like on this Truetrac it would make more sense to put the clips in with the closed side up, hold the bottom with a pick or something, and then push the axles in. I'm just worried one of the clips is going to fall out again. It doesn't seem like there's anything on this Truetrac to keep the clips from falling out. I think on the original diff the center pin keeps them from falling out. The Truetrac has no center pin and is just open. Do I need a different kind of clip?
Drive
Coast
(This post was edited by MarineGrunt on Apr 11, 2013, 7:09 PM)
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MarineGrunt
Enthusiast
Apr 11, 2013, 7:33 PM
Post #123 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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Here are some pictures of the Truetrac where the c clips go. I just don't see how they wouldn't fall out. You can see how it's just an open area where the c clips hold the axle.
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nickwarner
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Apr 11, 2013, 8:02 PM
Post #124 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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Look in the packaging it came in for small hardware. If you look in the bottom pic, you clearly see where it is notched to put the c clips in, but in the bore coming down to that, about halfway, looks like a snap ring groove. I would think some sort of cover plate goes in there and is retained by a snap ring. Might check Detroits website or call their tech line, they would know for sure. Perhaps even break out the destructions and see if it references something of that nature.
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MarineGrunt
Enthusiast
Apr 11, 2013, 8:20 PM
Post #125 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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This is the only thing it came with. It had the Mustang note on the bag. Sounds like it's only for a Mustang but I don't see why it wouldn't work. I don't want to be guessing though. I emailed tech support so will see what they say. I've read others who installed the Truetrac and they said you don't need any kind of special clips but they never said what they used.
*Edit*
Ahh.....brain fart. It says for Mustang users utilize the GROOVED spacer. Well, the spacer that came with mine isn't grooved. That means I have the correct one. That's the kind of crap my wife pulls. Don't tell her it happened to me.
(This post was edited by MarineGrunt on Apr 11, 2013, 8:30 PM)
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