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Discretesignals
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Apr 4, 2013, 4:00 PM
Post #26 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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Heck, we do braces at our shop cheap. Safety wire and some Q bond cement. We could have her fixed up no time flat.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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nickwarner
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Apr 4, 2013, 4:36 PM
Post #27 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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If the pinion bearings are ok, leave them be for now. Otherwise you have the fun of setting proper pinion depth which requires special tooling. To put the inner bearing on you would also need either a hydraulic press or a cheap pizza oven. By not having to deal with that, you only have to worry about getting the pinion bearing preload correct, which is easy. Same thing with the carrier bearings. If they aren't damaged you are back to pizza oven or press.
Somehow I think your daughter would be less enthusiast with you making some braces for her than she already is about having to get them.
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MarineGrunt
Enthusiast
Apr 4, 2013, 5:29 PM
Post #28 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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Ha...I'll use the $8000 to party in Florida while she's at your shop. Mind keeping her for a week? I had braces for about 8 months in high school. During a football game someone's foot came up under my facemask and drilled me. It knocked off about 4 or 5 brackets. My mom and dad were in bed when I got home. I thought I was being nice by not waking them up and took care of it myself. A couple minutes with some wire cutters took care of it. They weren't too happy about that one! I told them I didn't want them to begin with so they went ahead and let me get them off. To this day I don't think my dad believes me that it happened in the game. He was in the stands so I don't know how he didn't see the wire hanging out of my mouth the rest of the game.
I jacked up one of the carrier bearings trying to get it off. I thought I had to remove them in order to replace the spider gears. Darn...wish I would've checked on here before starting.
Do you have any tricks for getting the bearing off? I tried a slide hammer with no luck. I thought about taking a burr to it and slowly work towards the center. Once I get close I could move to the dremel. That's what I did for the bushings and some seals on the tranny. I do have access to a press or I thought about rigging one up using a bottle jack. Man I wish I wouldn't have messed with that bearing. It would've been nice just swapping the gears. I guess that's what you get when you don't know what the heck you're doing.
I'm going to go get parts tomorrow. I'm guessing they'll have to order them so should get them Saturday. At least I know I don't have to buy the bearing kit, just one bearing for now as long as they're all okay. They seem fine though.
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MarineGrunt
Enthusiast
Apr 4, 2013, 5:42 PM
Post #29 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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Are the ring gear bolts reverse thread? I thought I read that somewhere but can't find where I read it. The last thing I want to do is break one off!
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Apr 4, 2013, 5:52 PM
Post #30 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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You don't need to remove the ring gear and i suggest you don't. You can press bearing on and off with it in place.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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MarineGrunt
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Apr 4, 2013, 7:17 PM
Post #31 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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Thanks HT.
I think there might be a little more damage. I'm not sure what the part is called but here's a picture. It's not that great of a picture but hopefully you can tell what I mean.
It looks like there are a couple long splines broke off on this.
There's the small toothed gear on the inside and it has a couple teeth that are broke off. Not a very good picture here either.
What do you guys recommend. A used rear end from the salvage yard, a Truetrak, or any other idea?
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nickwarner
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Apr 4, 2013, 8:22 PM
Post #32 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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You might be inheriting someone elses trouble with a junkyard rear. You already need to replace the carrier bearing you damaged. I'd bite the bullet and get the Truetrac.
Ring gear bolts aren't reverse thread. They're just on tight.
If you have a bearing splitter and a hydraulic press you can get that bearing off. If you were to try to use a torch you'd have to be surgical with it, if you tried to use a carbide you'd be at it forever.
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MarineGrunt
Enthusiast
Apr 4, 2013, 8:43 PM
Post #33 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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There's a rebuilt assembly on ebay for $250. It has new bearings, new updated clutch packs, new races, new shaft, and is guaranteed against chips, pits, etc on all gears. What do you guys think? It would be nice just being able to toss it in.
I believe I have a G80 but need to check the glove box. Is there any other way to tell exactly what diff I have such as by counting splines?
Not sure what the green and orange marks are. They were already there.
(This post was edited by MarineGrunt on Apr 4, 2013, 9:14 PM)
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MarineGrunt
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Apr 4, 2013, 10:19 PM
Post #34 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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Forget the post above. The one on ebay is the wrong one.
I did count the splines and have the 3.73. Looks like the Truetrak is the way to go unless I can find the parts I need. Probably end up costing more than the Truetrak though.
(This post was edited by MarineGrunt on Apr 5, 2013, 7:05 AM)
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MarineGrunt
Enthusiast
Apr 5, 2013, 8:53 AM
Post #35 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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I ended up ordering the Detroit Truetrac. I went ahead and got the ring and pinion installation kit too. It comes with all bearings, including the carrier bearings needed for the Truetrac. It also comes with ring bolts, shims, all seals, crush sleeve, pinion nut, gear marking compound, etc. It only set me back $600..ha. I did call some local salvage yards and only one had what I needed. They would only sell the whole rear end and wanted $750. If I look at the bright side I should have a better diff for less money than what a used one would've cost.
Since I won't be getting the carrier until Monday or Tuesday I'm thinking about replacing the rear main seal while the truck is out of commission. It has been leaking oil pretty good over the last so many months and is getting a little worse. I've had to add a quart about every 1500 miles. I'm pretty sure it's the rear main. Our driveway is at a very slight angle and you can definitely tell oil is running down the back of the engine somewhere. It's even running all the way back to the transfer case. I guess my questions are....Is there anywhere else oil could be leaking as bad as it is from the rear of the engine or is it likely the rear main? Also, how difficult is it removing the tranny on this truck? Compared to the Venture is it any easier? Any special tools, tips, etc?
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Apr 5, 2013, 9:32 AM
Post #36 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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I wish I had your ambition................LOL
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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MarineGrunt
Enthusiast
Apr 5, 2013, 10:26 AM
Post #37 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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It's either work on something or hangout with the wife. I head in to take a shower at 10:00 and in bed by 10:30. She falls asleep around 11:00 which gives us about a half hour of "quality" time before she falls asleep. I've got it down to a science. Although, I could probably head to bed around 10:58.
I don't have that nice Florida weather to enjoy so nothing better to do.
I talked to Nick and he mentioned checking the oil sending unit before I start tearing into the rear main. Seems like they are notorious for leaking. The oil is kind of running down the left hand side of the bell housing so hopefully that's what it is. If I pull the tranny the exhaust is in the way. (Remember my ordeal with changing out the tranny filter?) I'll have to get my hands on a torch. I have everything but the bottles so thought about just renting some for awhile. If not I can borrow my stepdad's.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Apr 5, 2013, 10:44 AM
Post #38 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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Just about the torch: They make the small cans of oxy/mapp gas that is supposed to be able to cut, weld close to oxy/acet. I want that kit for portability but states lasts about 20 min only but cheap - like $40 or so. Can't be as good as what I have just pony oxy/acet with spares and real Victor set which was pricey but couldn't have worked without it. Wanted the pony size for portability. Cut up a mess of boat trailer for my bro in ME and it fits in the trunk!
You know the game - rust city only really cooperates with glowing heat or to cut up an exhaust system if needed to get it out. Too funny but need to cut up a broken 40' extension ladder to dispose of and a pipe flag pole ----- who said I was normal?
Tom
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MarineGrunt
Enthusiast
Apr 5, 2013, 11:35 AM
Post #39 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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I really need to get some tanks. The small ones would be plenty for me because it's not something I'd use all that much. There have been a few times where a torch would've saved me gobs of time.
I'm glad I talked to Nick because I'm not so sure it is a rear main. nothing is wet inside the bell housing. At least from what I can tell. The left hand, outside of the bell housing is completely wet. It looks to be coming from higher up than the oil pan gasket although it looks like it could be leaking a little too. You can tell that the front driveshaft threw some of the oil around from when I had it in 4 wheel drive during the last snowstorm.
It's hard to tell where it's coming from. I took a mirror and it looks a little wet around the oil sending unit but would that much oil leak from it? There's even oil all the way back on the transfer case.
Any idea where it's coming from? If it was the rear main shouldn't I see more oil inside the bell housing and just not on the outside?
(This post was edited by MarineGrunt on Apr 5, 2013, 11:37 AM)
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Apr 5, 2013, 12:32 PM
Post #40 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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Tiny torches: Haven't bought them yet to see how well they can work. Hey - your rust situation looks good to me! That the deal with heat as you know. Get a real tough nut or bolt you just get it glowing fast and act fast right away and the nastiest will cooperate. So many times for whatever - brake lines and dumb stuff WILL come out without breaking what you need if done right.
If they do work I'd be real psyched for assorted crap and takes up no room - there's the deal. NG if you do tons of stuff you bite it and get the real stuff.
Shoot, would be great to have them to just put in my trunk like nothing for stupid crap away from shop. Done with biz long time now but things still come up that I will do.
Smile - not good for gas lines, duh! Kinda causes a commotion.......
Solves that problem whatever it was
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Just out as it's near snow free now in a stored car for Winter. Sooooo nice as I drive a Chev 2500 w HD suspension all Winter that rides like it has no suspension and roads here really suk. Ride counts, -- Tom
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MarineGrunt
Enthusiast
Apr 5, 2013, 3:33 PM
Post #41 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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Yeah....you just saw the front driveshaft. It looks good because I sand blasted and painted it when I did the transfer case pump rub kit awhile back. The underneath has some rust but isn't completely horrible. What is horrible are the rockers. It's rusted through in a few spots. I already bought matching paint for it. I just have to figure out what the best approach is where the metal is rusted so bad. I thought about trying to form own but not sure how it would look. It's not a very wide piece and you can't really see it being that most of it curves under the truck. I'd just like to prevent the rust from continuing. I've heard of people cutting out the old metal, using the spray foam, bondo on top of that, sand and paint. That just sounds too "rigged" to go that route. Gonna wait until it warms up a bit more before I pull out the sandblaster. I figure I had better do something or else it might end up looking like that truck in your picture above!
I'll probably just end up renting some oxy/acet bottles, but if I pick up the tiny ones, I'll let you know how they work. I'd really like to find some of those small oxy/acet bottles to buy. Then again, if I get the big ones I probably would only have to fill them about every 20 years. Unless I decided to start my charcoal with it. I usually use the propane weed burner for that though. The charcoal is ready in less than 5 minutes. 
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Apr 5, 2013, 3:44 PM
Post #42 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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What's all that oil on the outside of the bellhousing? Looks like you have oil sender or valve cover issues. Always repair oil leaks from the top down.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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nickwarner
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Apr 5, 2013, 8:50 PM
Post #43 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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That pic was worth a thousand words. Your rear main is fine. That leak is either the sending unit, intake or distributor o-ring. My money is on the sending unit. It only leaks when the engine is running obviously. Your flexplate and torque converter are dry. A rear main leak would make them wet. This is a 1 piece bellhousing on the trans. There is no way for oil to get inside unless it comes from inside.
Feel free to mention over and over again how talking to Nick helped. My ego is having a good day and its not my birthday until tomorrow.
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MarineGrunt
Enthusiast
Apr 5, 2013, 9:01 PM
Post #44 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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HT....that's exactly what Nick said when I talked to him earlier today. A few months back I looked up top but didn't see anything. I now realize I didn't look close enough. The oil sender does have quite a bit of grime around it. You guys have no idea how much extra work you have saved me since joining this forum. Then again, you guys give me the confidence to dive into more than what I use to so you might be causing me more work! I'm having fun though and it's saving me quite a bit of money so that's a good thing.
Nick...You're darn right talking to you helped! If you wouldn't have called I probably would've had the tranny pulled and would've headed to the parts store for the rear main. You saved my butt on this one!
Is there a way to start the truck with the driveshaft unhooked and not loose fluid? Would it hurt to just duct tape the opening in the t case and let it run long enough to verify the oil sender is what's leaking? It leaks good enough to where I should be able to see it or at least notice wetness. The intake doesn't look to be leaking but it is tough to see back there.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Apr 5, 2013, 9:05 PM
Post #45 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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I didn't study those pics as well. I think you and HT are right. Not the rear main at all but something up higher, - Tom
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nickwarner
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Apr 5, 2013, 9:11 PM
Post #46 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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If you are in park the t-case isn't turning. You don't need the driveshaft in there and will harm nothing. If you need a confirmed kill on this one get a bottle of oil dye from the parts store and a black light. If you don't have one you can get a black light bulb at spencers and put that in a trouble light. Add the dye to your oil and run the engine. Get the area you are in dark and turn on the black light. The dye glows under black light. It will show you for sure what is going on.
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MarineGrunt
Enthusiast
Apr 5, 2013, 10:44 PM
Post #47 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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I didn't know if the fluid would still leak at or not. Guess I have my answer. Man, you guys won't let me use duct tape for anything.
I have a black light I bought for doing ac systems. It has been leaking pretty good. When I stopped the truck at the store or somewhere I could already see a few quarter size areas by the time I opened the door and looked underneath. As bad as it's leaking I bet I can see it without dye but it would make it much easier. I think I'll pick some up tomorrow. I'll be happy when that leak is taken care of. It has been bugging the crap out of me. I've been putting it off thinking it was the rear main. Maybe I ought to stick to welding instead of this mechanic stuff! Then again, I've got you guys to figure everything out for me. Now if I could only get you to drive the hundreds or thousands of miles to do my work.
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Apr 6, 2013, 3:05 AM
Post #48 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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I wouldn't get too crazy with the dye just yet. Just get a real good flashlight and maybe a mirror and you should be able to follow that trail to it's origin. I would be very surprised if the valve covers were not a player in this.
If you do have to resort too dye, I would get the engine real clean of all old oil first.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Apr 6, 2013, 3:06 AM)
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MarineGrunt
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Apr 6, 2013, 9:45 AM
Post #49 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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I took a flashlight and mirror to it yesterday and it does look pretty grimy around the oil sender. Due to where it was parked, and with the sun shining, it was kind of tough to see due to the sun blinding me. It didn't seem like the valve covers were leaking but I I'm not positive on that one. I don't think I've ever seen you get one wrong so will definitely take a better look.
Is the oil sender sticking straight up and down on the back left side of the engine? I just want to make sure I'm looking at the right thing.
Suppose to be 68 today and 70 tomorrow so we're starting to catch up to your Florida weather. (Standing by for some smart @$$ remark! )
Thanks HT.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Apr 6, 2013, 10:00 AM
Post #50 of 143
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Re: 2003 Sierra differential
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IDK - if suspect I'd toss it. I've seen some blow engine they blast oil out so bad and fast. I believe it takes a special socket and uses plumbing thread for the seal but who knows? It came from the "zone" - $40
Tom
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