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1993 ford rangers wont start


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Xanrogers
New User

Oct 20, 2016, 7:20 AM

Post #1 of 6 (345 views)
1993 ford rangers wont start Sign In

My 93 ford ranger wont start, it wont even crank. It just gives and audible click. I have no idea how this started. I have lights, the fans for the a/c blow, and the radio plays. I have replaced the starter solenoid, checked the starter (still good), new battery clamps. I am at a loss. I am holding a steady 12.45 volts before i start it, when i do try to start it, it drops to 7.45, when i release the ignition volts go up to 10-11 volts. battery is still good though. I have even tried jumping it.


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Oct 20, 2016, 9:21 AM

Post #2 of 6 (339 views)
Re: 1993 ford rangers wont start Sign In

It that click a hard click at the starter or just the solenoid? Can you turn this engine by hand - crankbolt for example.
When volts drop that low either battery just is out of amps or way too many being drawn as in overload of draw so need to know which would help,


T



Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Oct 20, 2016, 10:23 AM

Post #3 of 6 (336 views)
Re: 1993 ford rangers wont start Sign In

If you are seeing that kind of voltage drop and only partial recovery, you could have a bad battery. You need to have that tested or just replaced.

Also make sure you can rotate the engine by hand to confirm it's not seized.



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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Oct 20, 2016, 10:24 AM)


Xanrogers
New User

Oct 20, 2016, 3:09 PM

Post #4 of 6 (325 views)
Re: 1993 ford rangers wont start Sign In

I put a new battery in it, it did the same thing. And yes, it clicks one time at the starter solenoid.


Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Hammer Time profile image

Oct 20, 2016, 6:12 PM

Post #5 of 6 (321 views)
Re: 1993 ford rangers wont start Sign In

OK, it's time to turn the engine by hand and if you can, check that you have everything wired correctly and if so, I would change the starter.



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Oct 21, 2016, 2:25 AM

Post #6 of 6 (317 views)
Re: 1993 ford rangers wont start Sign In

OK - New battery in this but is it charged up and what do your observations show other than it makes this click at the solenoid? FYI, a battery NEW isn't charged up yet and if old but new you charge it first. Most, you really don't have to just replacing one it's enough the vehicle runs and finishes that but you have a problem which must begin with knowing the battery new or still older is good then tests will show accurate for where or what the problem is.


Without tools just some experience you can hear the tone of the snap of a good system that can't turn an engine which is why we (Hammer Time and I) have asked if the engine turns manually - you must know it can.


Ways: 1. Turn the crank bolt with a socket and breaker bar set up.
2. If a dust cover to flywheel/ring gear gives access turn by that with a pry bar.
3. If a standard shift put it in gear and rock the vehicle and watch it engine turns.


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Refresh: The solenoid is new like this - am I right?
>>


Fine - Battery positive cable to one of the large posts of this, the other on to starter. One of the two shown smaller posts triggers this solenoid to send power to starter but you said just this clicks? If so see if power goes to the trigger wire right there or do that - not a screwdriver - hard as said to make that work.


Then it should click, lightly sending power on. If battery isn't sending enough AMPS (think power) on this item should flutter an will also show low volts. Where were low volts tested? Here or back at battery post not the clamp. Check at both center of post and the U-Bolt clamp for the same power.


This is systematic to knock out where the power goes or stops when it shouldn't and fix or know from there.


All of this know that the negative post of batter and its clamp must be good then cable known good on to a bolt connecting to engine block which is just as important as the positive side of all connections.


It's a 1993 - almost no chance if nobody has serviced these things by now they aren't all suspect spots.


I mentioned this again means nothing if engine is seized but most folks don't come by with just a surprise that drastic but possible so it all gets checked - you decide where to begin but if by battery power knowing it's charged now new is still pertinent,


T



(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on Oct 21, 2016, 2:31 AM)






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