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After rplacing all Calipers&padsand bled, pedal to the floor. Plse help!!


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hardy
Novice

Apr 18, 2011, 4:31 PM

Post #1 of 15 (1476 views)
  post locked   post icon After rplacing all Calipers&padsand bled, pedal to the floor. Plse help!!  

2000 silverado, 2wd 4.8l

I had good breaking. But with about 125k I decided to replace the Front and rear calipers. I bled the breaks 4 times BUT... when I start the engine, the pedal goes to the floor with only very slight breaking with heavy foot pressure.

This was maintenance, so not likely to be anything else as far as I can tell. There are no leaks. When I bled the lines the pedal pressure is only about half of what I would expect. I seem to have gotten all air out but that is the best I can do. Then Starting removes all pedal pressure.

I sure don't want to suffer the embarrasment of towing it to a repair shop.

If you can help PLEASE DO!!

Thank You.
Hardy


Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Apr 18, 2011, 4:40 PM

Post #2 of 15 (1466 views)
  post locked   Re: After rplacing all Calipers&padsand bled, pedal to the floor. Plse help!!  

Go look at the calipers and tell me if the bleeder screw is above the line fitting or below. let me know.



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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



hardy
Novice

Apr 18, 2011, 6:23 PM

Post #3 of 15 (1458 views)
  post locked   Re: After rplacing all Calipers&padsand bled, pedal to the floor. Plse help!!  

 The rear bleeder is about 1 inch below feed on the opposite side. Front is about 3' below also on opposite side.

Thanks for your input,. Interesting question. Do you think that one of the calipers is bad?

Hardy.


Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Apr 18, 2011, 6:26 PM

Post #4 of 15 (1454 views)
  post locked   Re: After rplacing all Calipers&padsand bled, pedal to the floor. Plse help!!  

You have all your calipers on the wrong side of the truck, causing them to be upside down and since the bleeder is no longer the highest point, it's impossible to get all the air out. Switch sides and bleed again.



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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



hardy
Novice

Apr 18, 2011, 7:24 PM

Post #5 of 15 (1446 views)
  post locked   Re: After rplacing all Calipers&padsand bled, pedal to the floor. Plse help!!  

Well I'm feeling stupid now. I will be out in the shop first thing in the morning and switch them around. I hope you are right and I have learned something valuable the hard way... with your help! I can't stop grinning though.

This will be easy concidering that It kicked my butt removing the old ones. They looked good but those bolts didn't want to budge. I actually had to cut one off.

I wire wheeled and 'Never Siezed' the bolts and clear coated the parts be 4 replacing. I can't visualize it but I hope that I can leave the brackets in place and just switch the calipers.

Thanks much!!

Hardy


Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Apr 18, 2011, 7:29 PM

Post #6 of 15 (1443 views)
  post locked   Re: After rplacing all Calipers&padsand bled, pedal to the floor. Plse help!!  

No, don't remove the brackets. separate the calipers only. You don't even have to move the pads unless it's easier. There is a left and right and that is how you tell the difference. the bleeder always has to be the highest point because air rises to the top. Believe me. you are not the first to do this.



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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



hardy
Novice

Apr 18, 2011, 8:00 PM

Post #7 of 15 (1438 views)
  post locked   Re: After rplacing all Calipers&padsand bled, pedal to the floor. Plse help!!  

You seem to be the man to ask with trouble shooting issues! I appreciate that!

Another concern....Do you think that I need to replace the copper sealing washers? In fact one of the front line hoses was badly pitted and I had to carefully file it but still it was only slightly better. The reason I chose not to replace it the substantial clamp that is welded down with a 10mm bolt welded to it and about 2" metal holding the hose in place. I think now that I'm going back I will cut the old hose and leave some to tie rap the new one to it. Do you know what I'm talking about?

Thanks for telling me that I'm not the only one to do this.

Hardy Crazy


Hammer Time
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Apr 18, 2011, 8:05 PM

Post #8 of 15 (1435 views)
  post locked   Re: After rplacing all Calipers&padsand bled, pedal to the floor. Plse help!!  

I tend to use the old washers a lot, mainly because they sometimes fit better although sometimes the new ones are necessary. I'll give you a trick to get them to seal better.
Get a small hammer and tap on the end of the banjo bolt, tighten it a little and then tap it some more. you will get it a lot tighter without stripping it by tapping the end of the bolt as you tighten



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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



hardy
Novice

Apr 18, 2011, 8:14 PM

Post #9 of 15 (1430 views)
  post locked   Re: After rplacing all Calipers&padsand bled, pedal to the floor. Plse help!!  

Nice tip, thank you. I will most likely replace the Hoses since I have to go back. And tie rap it to the old hose and clamp.

Again thanks,
Hardy.


Hammer Time
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Apr 18, 2011, 8:19 PM

Post #10 of 15 (1422 views)
  post locked   Re: After rplacing all Calipers&padsand bled, pedal to the floor. Plse help!!  

Pinch off the old hoses so they don't drain while you are switching the calipers. You want to try to prevent the master reservoir from ever going dry. That will make bleeding much easier.
When you install the new hoses, install the caliper end first so you can make a quick switch at the top connection.



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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



hardy
Novice

Apr 19, 2011, 5:19 PM

Post #11 of 15 (1410 views)
  post locked   Re: After rplacing all Calipers&padsand bled, pedal to the floor. Plse help!!  

Hammer Time... you da man!!!

All done very nice, fast trouble shooting...Thank You! I owe you A beer!

We learn from our mistakes. I won't do that again!

One tip that I might add is that A small clamp and two small pieces of wood will esily keep the brake line from leaking while disconnected from the caliper.

Thank you!!!!!

Hardy.


Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Apr 19, 2011, 5:23 PM

Post #12 of 15 (1407 views)
  post locked   Re: After rplacing all Calipers&padsand bled, pedal to the floor. Plse help!!  

We have special rounded, locking clamp pliers for doing that.

Like I said, you're not the first to do that and won't be the last but I guarantee you won't do it again now.............LOL



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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Apr 24, 2011, 10:00 AM

Post #13 of 15 (1384 views)
  post locked   Re: After rplacing all Calipers&padsand bled, pedal to the floor. Plse help!!  

Awesome thread!

You go Hammer,

Tom


Mr.scotty
Enthusiast
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Apr 25, 2011, 9:44 PM

Post #14 of 15 (1370 views)
  post locked   Re: After rplacing all Calipers&padsand bled, pedal to the floor. Plse help!!  

I have a 99 ford taraurs and the bleeder screws are below the brake lines on the rear calipers.
It's been this way since i got, are they on the wrong sides too?

You hit the head on the nail with this guy great job HT!Cool
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Your only as good as your tools!


Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Apr 26, 2011, 4:36 AM

Post #15 of 15 (1366 views)
  post locked   Re: After rplacing all Calipers&padsand bled, pedal to the floor. Plse help!!  

The bleeder has to be the highest point to be able to bleed the system and all calipers are designed that way. If the bleeder is not the highest point, then the calipers are on the wrong side of the car.

Now, don't post to old threads. This guy gets an annoying e-mail every time someone posts here.



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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.







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