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93 4X4 1500 Chevy 350 engine..
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alienshadow
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Feb 14, 2010, 5:24 PM
Post #26 of 44
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Re: 93 4X4 1500 Chevy 350 engine..
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I think everything is there just the line connector has a broke screw in it... Wonder if its hooked up if there will be problems? I am not sure
If you cant fix it then dont mess with it...
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steve01832
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Feb 14, 2010, 5:34 PM
Post #27 of 44
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Re: 93 4X4 1500 Chevy 350 engine..
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Usually when someone plugs a vacuum line or port, it is because of a problem. Instead of diagnosing or replacing, some elect to disable. There is no way of knowing how the truck will run until all of the vacuum lines are hooked up and the truck is driven.
Steve
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re-tired
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Feb 14, 2010, 10:54 PM
Post #28 of 44
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Re: 93 4X4 1500 Chevy 350 engine..
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A.S. It is the job of that "box" to allow the EGR valve to open. Since the the vac line related to the box is off and plugged at means the valve will never open and it is not your problem . Your mechanic was right , the eng will operate ok without the box hooked up. The valve wll just remain closed , its just a pollution control devise . You may want to ask your mechanic why he replaced the EGR valve thats not even hooked up or capable of operating ?
LIFE'S SHORT GO FISH
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Feb 15, 2010, 4:07 AM
Post #29 of 44
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Re: 93 4X4 1500 Chevy 350 engine..
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Agree R-T. Had a slightly older 350 with an EGR inoperative that would knock! Seems the exact application really counted on it to crack open at it's known part throttle, especially with load and it wouldn't knock with it operating properly. The EGR is engineered into the whole scene of proper operation not just a bolt on emission control as many would think,
T
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alienshadow
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Feb 15, 2010, 5:43 AM
Post #30 of 44
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Re: 93 4X4 1500 Chevy 350 engine..
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Well after reading your post reply Even w/o the egr vaccum line being hooked up I dont think that is my problem with the sputter issue.. It has been unhooked probably since the week after I bought this truck.. Although I didnt realize it wasnt hooked up.. The c/e light was on and I guess that was the mechanics way of clearing it although i paid for and egr valve go figure.., Think its time for a new mechanic..
If you cant fix it then dont mess with it...
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Feb 15, 2010, 6:36 AM
Post #31 of 44
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Re: 93 4X4 1500 Chevy 350 engine..
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Agreed - I doubt that's the upfront "sputtering" issue but when you reported that it was just plugged off and told it doesn't matter that's a warning that the tech MAY (I'm not there) fully understand. There will be things that escape the best of the best but be upfront about it as a tech.
Just know that almost all car/vehicle makers don't waste $ on things that aren't needed,
T
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alienshadow
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Feb 15, 2010, 7:41 AM
Post #32 of 44
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Re: 93 4X4 1500 Chevy 350 engine..
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Thanks Tom.. I changed out the spark plug wires myself.. I just couldnt see paying 68.00 to 101.00 to change them. To my surprise it cranked right up lol.. The old wires were tie strapped in and they had been put on real tight looks like they didnt cut into the wire but left a deep indention in them... So far the sputter issue is gone hopefully it will stay that way...Its the first time in a long while that I cold cranked it and it didnt sputter until it warmed up cranked and purred.... Just for my information when the truck is cold I here a ticking noise sounds like a lifter I am not sure.. Any good ideas on how to work with that? Not looking to overhaul lol.. I am running a thicker oil in my truck I think its 10w 40 or 20w 40....Thanks guys for all your help..
Steve no hard feelings I put the nerd pic up because I am smart but a nerd when it comes to being a mechanic... You guys are very helpful..
If you cant fix it then dont mess with it...
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Feb 15, 2010, 8:54 AM
Post #33 of 44
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Re: 93 4X4 1500 Chevy 350 engine..
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Seems like progress is at hand but not finished totally quite yet.
The deal with the high voltage parts - specifically the wires right now that were wire tied tight is the core of them isn't plain hard wire so with electricity being stupid it only wants the easiest way to find ground and doesn't care if it's between wires or to another ground which mean the plug doesn't get the spark for that round or ever in bad cases.
The spark plugs force that current to jump to ground via the set gap. The electricity would rather just skip that and shoot out along the way and hence no spark.
The resistance inside the cylinder is different than watching a plug in unpressurized air. That mix of fuel and air vaporized impedes the needed jump to ground under various condition more sometimes and less sometimes.
Back to this broken thing with the screw. Is the screw in plastic where a port is broken off or in the hose - or just plugged?
It the plastic has broken off the outlet/inlet it's near impossible to fix those - trust me - even when you have the broken piece.
The ticking while cold can take an experienced ear to know just what. With age, miles, perhaps some sludge, camshaft and lifter wear, the range of lifter may be maxed out when cold. Total guess as I'm not there. When warmed up the pushrod and parts are an itty bit longer/larger and while warm be within range again. Don't (my opinion) go nuts with cure all snake oils in can stuff as plain good quality oil should be fine if this is just sticking or slightly sludged. If distance is out of range some can be adjusted (cheap way out for an old engine) vs all new stuff.
Defining noises is tricky. In that it goes away is a clue but for now I doubt the issue/cause of sputtering,
T
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alienshadow
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Feb 15, 2010, 9:17 AM
Post #34 of 44
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Re: 93 4X4 1500 Chevy 350 engine..
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Tom I can see where the hose plugs into.. There is a rubber piece that is on the vac line that plugs in to the selinoid I guess.. It looks like a L shape rubber fitting and thats where the screw is broke off at the rubber piece I can not get it out will have to buy a new piece I guess...Try it see what happens... So you are saying that my spark plugs may not of been the issue? Just a temp fix? Oh and by the way where the hose plugs in at it looks like it would just slid right onto it..
If you cant fix it then dont mess with it...
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steve01832
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Feb 15, 2010, 9:19 AM
Post #35 of 44
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Re: 93 4X4 1500 Chevy 350 engine..
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No hard feelings. I kinda figured about the nerd pic, that's why I made the smart-ass comment. lol
Hopefully the truck is all set now.
Steve
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alienshadow
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Feb 15, 2010, 9:24 AM
Post #36 of 44
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Re: 93 4X4 1500 Chevy 350 engine..
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I hope so.. I think every forum needs a little humor every now and then...Glad we were adults about it ....
If you cant fix it then dont mess with it...
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Feb 15, 2010, 9:31 AM
Post #37 of 44
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Re: 93 4X4 1500 Chevy 350 engine..
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Alien,
What I'm saying is that plugs and wires are in the cards for the fix. May not be the whole issue but sounds like the wires were a bit of a hack job some time ago. It isn't new anymore and good plugs and wires are a must to rule out especially if older, hacked, cheap, with a problem that can be intermittent which is a hair puller for anyone.
If that item with the screw in it works better that way than when fixed then it's pointing to what the real cause is,
T
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alienshadow
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Feb 15, 2010, 5:55 PM
Post #38 of 44
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Re: 93 4X4 1500 Chevy 350 engine..
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UPDATE...
Well my truck seems to do better at stop lights and during shifts into second no more sputters as of yet thankfully... Only thing I do notice is when I crank it up when its cold I still get that sputter I thought it was gone but I was wrong..At a lost for that one..
ALSO If anyone could advise I supposely had my heater coil replaced due to it leaking at the firewall where the rubber hoses go into it.. Well as you would know it still leaks only when it has been sitting for about 6 hrs or so.. I had another mechanic ck it he said it was a new heater coil and he tighten the clamps but it still leaks at the same spot.. I have no clue as to what could be causing this...
If you cant fix it then dont mess with it...
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steve01832
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Feb 15, 2010, 6:45 PM
Post #39 of 44
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Re: 93 4X4 1500 Chevy 350 engine..
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This could be as simple as a bad clamp or if the clamp was overtightened it could have cut through the hose. If neither of these is the problem it would be the heater core itself.
Steve
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alienshadow
User
Feb 16, 2010, 4:15 PM
Post #40 of 44
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Re: 93 4X4 1500 Chevy 350 engine..
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Okay guys I am going to change my heater coil myself.. Does anyone have a easy diagram that would be helpful? Also any tricks of the trade to make it easy on me? 1993 chevy 1500 4x4 350 engine.. Just a reminder...Step by step would be great..
If you cant fix it then dont mess with it...
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alienshadow
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Feb 21, 2010, 10:24 AM
Post #41 of 44
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Re: 93 4X4 1500 Chevy 350 engine..
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It is not the heater core.. Put one in tighten all clamps and it still leaks.. After it has been setting for awhile.. Anymore sugesstions?
If you cant fix it then dont mess with it...
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Feb 21, 2010, 10:44 AM
Post #42 of 44
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Re: 93 4X4 1500 Chevy 350 engine..
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! If with A/C, TMK that's a tough job on those dash boards and heater box.
Either way - now need to know if there's any chance the heater box still had coolant in it when done and is just residual or leaking again? Pressure system up with a pressure tester and see if it does the tell-tale drip to passenger's floor all over again. If so, new core is defective or was broken installation - arggh!
T
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alienshadow
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Feb 21, 2010, 11:51 AM
Post #43 of 44
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Re: 93 4X4 1500 Chevy 350 engine..
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Tom i8ts not extra fluid.. I dryed it all up.. I was very careful doing replacement even put vaseline on the lines so the hoses would slide on easier that way I could not break or crack the core.. I have no way of doing a pressure test Guess I will have to pay to get that done... Its not leaking on the inside its leaking where the clamps are at near the firewall new hoses and clamps.. Go figure..
If you cant fix it then dont mess with it...
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Feb 21, 2010, 1:08 PM
Post #44 of 44
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Re: 93 4X4 1500 Chevy 350 engine..
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Leaking outside! Good I hope. That should mean the hoses just don't set properly or a flaw in the neck(s) that you might be able to overcome.
Note on hose clamps etc.: Clamps may have been the squeeze with plier type and pre set as to how strong. The typical worm gear hose clamps usually work and you would re- snug those after a warm up. If the common replacement clamp like this.......
they can have trouble getting uniform grip even if fairly tight. Wipe area of possibility clean as you can to pin down where leaking with towels or what works. Have dental mirror and clean towel to look for exactly where it's source is. I think you said new hose which is good but may either way not fit just right and over-tightening could make matters worse.
They make "full circle" clamps that apply even force all around. The ones shown are not so even and if a larger than needed one used they apply a oval pressure. Full circle + even pressure ones look like this..........
Dang if even parts outlets will look at you cross-eyed when asking for this type! In that last pic is the common GM original which is a pill and pre-set pressure but when new would self seal as hose indents as to not piss of a new owner. If any clamp is way overtightened it's trouble.
Note again: Not certain on this exact truck but the engine ends of hose are funky turn to grip things and fail easily when older. Hope by now that's been already dealt with or not that type.
Find exactly were it leaks as you should see it as said. BTW - if needed you can rent for free (100%) deposit a pressure tester from many major chain parts outlets. This one should just go on where radiator cap is - just don't exceed the ~15 lb mark on dial. If you've lowered coolant level such that just air is there just a few lbs of pressure will show faster with air only like finding a leak in a tire.
Good luck. If neck is bent but not cracked let me/us know and we can think of some way out of that hopefully,
T
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