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1995 ford ranger

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New User

Apr 20, 2008, 9:02 AM

Post #1 of 2 (10940 views)
1995 ford ranger Sign In

I am changing the motor myself, and I need to know how to remove the clutch cable.

I have the motor hanging from a cherry picker right now.

thank you, Todd

Double J
Veteran / Moderator
Double J profile image

Apr 20, 2008, 3:54 PM

Post #2 of 2 (10906 views)
Re: 1995 ford ranger Sign In

I am not familiar with the ranger setup,but i got this at the autozone site.
It shows a slave cylinder .
If this is your set up ,read the warning about the clutch master cylinder.
If not ,I tried..

Let us know if it helped you or not.


See Figures 1 and 2
Fig. 1: Slave cylinder

Before performing any service that requires removal of the slave cylinder, the master cylinder and pushrod must be disconnected from the clutch pedal. If not disconnected, permanent damage to the master cylinder assembly will occur if the clutch pedal is depressed while the slave cylinder is disconnected.
Fig. 2: View of the clutch line coupling removal tool

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

  2. Disconnect the coupling at the transmission, using the clutch coupling removal tool T88T-70522-A or equivalent. Slide the white plastic sleeve toward the slave cylinder while applying a slight tug on the tube.

  3. Remove the transmission assembly.

On the 2.9L (4WD) vehicles, the clutch housing must be removed with the transmission assembly.

  1. Remove the slave cylinder-to-transmission retaining bolts.

  2. Remove the slave cylinder from the transmission input shaft.

To install:

  1. Fit the slave cylinder over the transmission input shaft with the bleed screws and coupling facing the left side of the transmission.

  2. Install the slave cylinder retaining bolts. Torque to 13-19 ft. lbs. (18-26Nm).

  3. Install the transmission.

  4. Reconnect the coupling to the slave cylinder.

  5. Bleed the system.

  6. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

The following procedure is recommended for bleeding a hydraulic system installed on the vehicle. The largest portion of the filling is carried out by gravity. It is recommended that the original clutch tube with quick connect be replaced when servicing the hydraulic system because air can be trapped in the quick connect and prevent complete bleeding of the system. The replacement tube does not include a quick connect.

  1. Clean the dirt and grease from the dust cap.

  2. Remove the cap and diaphragm and fill the reservoir to the top with approved brake fluid C6AZ-19542-AA or BA, (ESA-M6C25-A) or equivalent.

To keep brake fluid from entering the clutch housing, route a suitable rubber tube of appropriate inside diameter from the bleed screw to a container.

  1. Loosen the bleed screw, located in the slave cylinder body, next to the inlet connection. Fluid will now begin to move from the master cylinder down the tube to the slave cylinder.

The reservoir must be kept full at all time during the bleeding operation, to ensure no additional air enters the system.

  1. Notice the bleed screw outlet. When the slave is full, a steady stream of fluid comes from the slave outlet. Tighten the bleed screw.

  2. Depress the clutch pedal to the floor and hold for 1-2 seconds. Release the pedal as rapidly as possible. The pedal must be released completely. Pause for 1-2 seconds. Repeat 10 times.

  3. Check the fluid level in the reservoir. The fluid should be level with the step when the diaphragm is removed.

  4. Repeat Step 5 and 6 five times. Replace the reservoir diaphragm and cap.

  5. Hold the pedal to the floor, crack open the bleed screw to allow any additional air to escape. Close the bleed screw, then release the pedal.

  6. Check the fluid in the reservoir. The hydraulic system should now be fully bled and should release the clutch.

  7. Check the vehicle by starting, pushing the clutch pedal to the floor and selecting reverse gear. There should be no grating of gears. If there is, and the hydraulic system still contains air, repeat the bleeding procedure from Step 5.

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