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1983 ford ranger doesnt start


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ranger
New User

Nov 10, 2014, 11:46 AM

Post #1 of 7 (1865 views)
1983 ford ranger doesnt start Sign In

hello,my 1983 ford ranger doesn't start it does smell like gas when im cranking it over .ive had rebilut carb,cap rotor ,has good spark on new plugs ,new fuel pump,new filter and carb is getting gas.im wondering if its the solenoid on side of carb which clicks as soon as I turn ignition on maybe giving it to much gas?


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Nov 10, 2014, 12:33 PM

Post #2 of 7 (1856 views)
Re: 1983 ford ranger doesnt start Sign In

? Three different carbureted engines were available so which one and what type carb would help a little.


Any history or more info would be nice. Super high miles, recent work etc. Did you check spark at plugs or just a coil wire or how?


Even if flooding out like crazy it should be reacting at least terribly by your description,


T



ranger
New User

Nov 12, 2014, 8:42 AM

Post #3 of 7 (1826 views)
Re: 1983 ford ranger doesnt start Sign In

single barrel carb with choke solenoid on side ,spark is at plugs and is strong ..please help solve this gremlin


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Nov 12, 2014, 9:03 AM

Post #4 of 7 (1821 views)
Re: 1983 ford ranger doesnt start Sign In

Arggh - You seem confident of spark - good. You really smell fuel/gas but are you so sure it gets into carb at all and if so reman carb or not could be messed up somehow and not taking in fuel but leaking a little there or anywhere you'd smell it. Can you see fuel at fuel pump and along to carb?


Take a plug or two out and see if they are soaked/wet with just a try at starting it again. Air dry sometimes isn't enough or time. Usually new ones if decent ones right for that engine will air dry with just time - others the real spark doesn't make it and grounds out thru wet plug without a spark when installed.


Might help to know that compression is good enough to fire. If and would be on the list of things to check, valve timing is correct, compression adequate this should react to even a prime of fuel or starting fluid (with all caution) if only to prove it really fires at all.


Then if nothing need to focus on just where and why you smell fuel as a result or the cause of it not starting,


T



ranger
New User

Nov 12, 2014, 12:47 PM

Post #5 of 7 (1795 views)
Re: 1983 ford ranger doesnt start Sign In

gas gets to carb due to good squirt when looking down carb 2 and 4 cylinders are wet with gas and 1 and 3 are dry black sooty all have excellent spark good compression and good timing ..question can the ecm be giving off spark but at the wrong time???is that possible ??also does the o2 sensor have anything to do with start up or just when its running(if and when I get it running)??


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Nov 12, 2014, 1:42 PM

Post #6 of 7 (1785 views)
Re: 1983 ford ranger doesnt start Sign In

This is a good idea to follow for "All Crank No Start" situations worth the read and rule stuff out better than you have so far.


http://autoforums.carjunky.com/...LL_NOT_START_P75655/


There are several variations for parts and ways for this dang truck and assorted engines. It also dates back to CA emissions that could change specs?


What dang engine is it? I have a chance if you just tell us that. 8th digit of VIN should nail which one.


Top post you replaced a bunch of stuff and a re-read suggests you rebuilt you own carb - right? It's seems to be selecting two cylinders to fire and two not to.


You've replaced or whatever distributor cap, rotor and wires. Did that go right? Firing order I could find real fast but with a FOUR cylinder you need to know direction of rotation of the distributor. Hope it's marked for #1 or pointing at #1 and if you look at vacuum advance it's off set to one side a bit on distributor. With that pretend you are entering the distributor in thru that and that's the direction the distributor should turn. Verify that with distributor cap off and watch for just a second while cranking would show too or show rotor doesn't move at all! This shows a rubber timing belt is used. That would end it from running but then your compression would show it so if that broke a compression test can't show good. What's the real story?


Wires to cap. Now you could have the right firing order but reversed the direction of rotation. If so #1+#3 will still be correct and #2 + #4 will be totally wrong to spark at the right time - got that?


That case it might not run but would usually give some backfiring or something? Check firing order and in order with direction of rotation of distributor's rotor. That mistake would show OK compression, two would fire and two would as well but at totally the wrong time so wouldn't fire but still get fuel.


If nothing all whacked started needing to do all this that sure would mess up the show and easily be missed at a glance.


Check that. Hate to say I've done it wrong on some shat box thing but it actually ran and instantly found what I did wrong.


If that happened now with all the cranking and messing with it you may need to either replace the plugs that got too wet or carefully heat them up quite hot off vehicle or new or not if flooded out just will not fire - especially if cheaper ones but I guess any could.


Also if really wailing on this to make it run now check oil level isn't too high or smell of fuel. Too much unburned fuel might have contaminated oil.


It's old. I say so what myself. What was the reason you did all this stuff to begin with? If it just didn't start and then you did all this OR did you just decide to do all this for maintenance reasons on an old truck?


Might be a great overall truck still and no problem just keep at it and get more out of it,


T



(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on Nov 12, 2014, 1:43 PM)


Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Discretesignals profile image

Nov 14, 2014, 4:59 PM

Post #7 of 7 (1736 views)
Re: 1983 ford ranger doesnt start Sign In


Quote
excellent spark good compression and good timing


How did you test for spark performance?
What are your cranking compression numbers for each cylinder?
How can you know the timing is good if you can't get the engine to even run?





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