Well I replaced the brake light, and had the window clip fixed as well as the front struts replaced. ($700 for both struts, some sleeve and a little weight looking thing that protects the strut from a sudden upward motion)

But as we may have guessed I still failed the emissions test results:
My emissions test results below:

Gas Standard Reading
NOx 970 1624 Failed
HC 128 148 Failed
CO% .71 .49 Pass
CO2% 14.4
O2% 0.4


Before I failed with a NOx reading of 1970 and a HC reading of 179

I changed the spark plugs, and air filter as well as went back to running 93 octane gas (like I'm suppose to be) see note at bottom.

So What do you guys think I should change next? The Oxygen Sensor (o2).... I changed this the last time and the car did pass...
I'm wondering if changing the gas octane could ruin an o2 sensor, or could my car be doing something that is burning out the oxygen sensor?

Any suggestions would be great!!




Gasoline NOTE: Run what the car Manufactors suggest.... It goes WAY beyond the price... 87 octane burns a lot faster, then 93 Octane and your car is designed to fire at a certain point, so the other octane will make it fire early or late....

Funny to note by changing back to 93 octane gasoline..... I gained another 30 mphs....

 
I joined the site to make this post! LOL. Looks like a great forum though...

Do you know that, in NJ, if you have spent $450 trying to repair the failed emissions you can ask for a special waiver? You need to bring the original invoices and they must be from a liscensed EMF. It's good for 2 years and can be re-issued if applicable.

Hope that helps...

TekDiva

Thanks a lot.

I think this site makes you register to help keep it clean, besides it was fairly simply to register right.

I actually just bought another o2 sensor since I had High NOx and HC.

That back fired on me.

The NOx and HC went up from.

Gas Standard Reading
NOx 970 1624 Failed
HC 128 148 Failed

to:
Gas Standard Reading
NOx 970 2150 Failed
128 250 Failed

Now I'm thinking is it my catalytic converter again (2 years old) or is my car just a piece of crap lol.

 
I really feel for ya ....

I'm just starting down this road right now- trying to save my beloved beater 87 manual trans bronco. I think it will be quite a "trip" ...

Personally, I'm really relieved to know that I'm not "into" the emissions for more than $450. I don't care what the critics say, I just really love this car and really want to save it. Call me a silly mach-a dork!

lol

TekDiva

Yeah I know the feeling.... I already spent 700 on struts, so I'm going to try and replace the catalytic. And see what happens from there.

Or I'll do what everyone else seems to be doing in NJ, registering my car in a different state for cheap insurance and less straight motor vehicle test.

I wish I knew more about the emmisions systems. The octane of fuel shouldn't matter if the car was designed for 87 octane. Have one of my own that fails by the slightest amount of Nox, and I put in a new EGR and things that should help and it tested worse by a smidge. It's a 1989 Town Car and this state still want's it to blow fresh air and it wasn't even designed for that so I'm ticked. That car now has 209,000 miles and is rusting badly so it's now on its last sticker.

Your converter should last longer than two years but if it's been taxed too much it could have given up.

If this car runs well it should be just some stupid problem like intake vacuum or any vacuum leaks. Take it out safely for a good beating -- meaning foot to the floor several times especially if the normal driving is just poking around as mine are.

Your #s are pretty high so there is something wrong and it is costing you fuel economy too.

I've heard isopropyl dry gas can help some but probably not as much as you need.

You can test for vacuum leaks with brakecleaner or carb/throttle body cleaner but some if flammable and on a hot engine a bit dangerous so if you try that have a real ABC fire extinguisher handy as some of these can flash with a hot engine. Engine idle should not change when using this trick on a vacuum suspect leak. Use sparingly if you try that, T
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Tom Greenleaf - MetroWest, Boston

Latest I changed the O2 Sensor, and my results shot up to

NOx 2254 (need 970)
HC 250 (need 128)

Do I need a new catalytic converter? Or what does an ERG system control and how could you check it out in a 92 325i bmw

The EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) is there to put a bit of already burned gas back into the intake but only at part throttle. It should be off at idle and off at full throttle. For some reason the tidbit it puts into fresh fuel and air lowers the combustion temp which lowers NOx. A colder engine will have less NOx but have higher HC.

The EGR was never meant to just reburn any unburned fuel as first thought by many.

A new Cat Converter would help but I'm not sure that would be enough.

Do you have a vacuum gauge? If not get one that makes vaccuum with a gauge and a peice of howe and a "T" that fits the hose for some testing.

Manifold vacuum should be about 18Hg at idle and the same without load at about 2,000 or it's indicating an exhaust restiction!

Also -- Is ignition timing correct? That could throw things off too, Just the thoughts du jour, T
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Tom Greenleaf - MetroWest, Boston

Hey Tom,

I recently noticed that once in a while my car is now giving a little backfire, not the loud boom, but you can hear a backfire after stepping on the gas and then coasting with the car still in gear

What kind of car is this and how many miles? If it uses a timing belt and it's overdue it may have jumped a tooth, T
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Tom Greenleaf - MetroWest, Boston

tom its a 92 bmw 325i... with 215,000 miles.

?? I guess check the timing and see if it jumps around too much but doubt that for a Beamer and that could mean a worn distributor, T
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Tom Greenleaf - MetroWest, Boston