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95 Dodge Neon - Projection Head Lamps


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Lhumen
Novice
Lhumen profile image

Feb 19, 2008, 1:10 AM

Post #1 of 4 (1648 views)
95 Dodge Neon - Projection Head Lamps Sign In

Basically, the factory head lamps have always been too dim for my wife. Not super great for me either, but she's the one with the "bad eyes"

With our tax return this year we decided it would be a good idea to replace the lamps with after market projection lamps.

So far only one has been installed on the passenger side of the vehicle (replaced a broken factory lamp that we needed to replace anyway).

The high beams (bulb 9005) are wonderful - however the low beams (bulb 9006, also the projectors) only glow. Kind of like a dying flashlight.

The factory lamps only used one bulb, these after market lamps use two and a special conversion harness to handle the high and low beams. I was wondering if this harness wasn't allowing enough power to reach the bulb?

Upon a suggestion I have an HID (High Intensity Discharge) Conversion Kit for the 9006 low beams currently in the mail. Is this something that will help correct the issue?

Any help in this matter would be wonderful! Thank you all very much!



(This post was edited by Lhumen on Feb 19, 2008, 1:11 AM)


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Feb 19, 2008, 2:58 AM

Post #2 of 4 (1640 views)
Re: 95 Dodge Neon - Projection Head Lamps Sign In

Quote:
"I was wondering if this harness wasn't allowing enough power to reach the bulb? "
_______________________________

I think that's the clue. Gauge of wiring may be an issue. Both supply side and grounding must be up to par for the bulbs. Will the bulbs glow bright if you can jumper wire a section to bolster the amp ability of the wiring? Don't know what the kits for this have but it should include all items needed if more power is required for this set up,

T



Lhumen
Novice
Lhumen profile image

Feb 19, 2008, 10:09 PM

Post #3 of 4 (1635 views)
Re: 95 Dodge Neon - Projection Head Lamps Sign In

Haven't attempted a jumper wire yet. I'll give that a try and see what happens.

I uploaded a few photos so you can see the low beams in comparison to the factory lamps.



A few other images can be seen here:

Head Lamps Off

Head Lamps On

I also looked at the wire harness. The harness wires look larger in comparison to the factory wires (though I couldn't identify the gauge of the wire).

Click Here for a picture of the harness / factory connection.

The factory wires are on the left (Red, Black and Black/Purple) the harness is on the right (White, Black and Green).

The White and Black go to the high beams. The bulb is a 9005 (12V 65W).

The Black and Green go to the low beams. The bulb is a 9006 (12V 55W).

I'll let you know what happens with the jumper wire and thank you again. This is the second issue that you've helped me with - I really appreciate it.


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Feb 20, 2008, 3:39 AM

Post #4 of 4 (1630 views)
Re: 95 Dodge Neon - Projection Head Lamps Sign In

You gotta love puters man - I feel like Rip Van Winkle times two sometimes. Bet if I looked I could still find a Kodak "Brownie" or "Instamatic" in my house. I really do still have "blue dot" flash bulbs!

This demostrates a bad ground type problem. Look at you parking light - it's dim also. It could be a power problem but I'm betting on ground.

Even the one that looks better (headlight) looks lousy. I've never driven one of these cars at night but this is not normal. All the vehicles made with moulded lenses not "sealed beams" use a halogen bulb as OE and some improved bulbs are advertized as direct replacements - namely "Sylvannia Silver Star" I think and I will try those next time a vehicle needs an headlight - they always get both or all when I'm in charge if the car is original.

I don't know if the lighting for this car is fused or thru relays that select left or right and doubt that. Therefore the source of power is probably good to the first bulb and splits to go to the other (check that area) or the grounding isn't right and you might not see that as easily when common metal parts are used as ground instead or a separate wire.

Think of DC current as a water hose going in one side and must return thru the other (pos to neg) and any item that doesn't get both won't work or work well. The bigger the ID of the hose the more water can flow. The gauge of the wire is important to deliver the full power needed or return it thru ground. Wiring or plugs may show heat damage, wrinkling of insulation, or blackened prongs if they don't get a good contact.

Add jumper ground wire(s) to common ground metals used as a test. Larger braided bare ground straps are used to connect body, dash and various areas to other common areas to return the ground to engine block which should be directly grounded to the battery which completes the loop.

Good luck. I think you'll like improved lights even if you had decent originals. All my own vehicles use sealed beams and they do make improved direct replacements which they all get when I get a car with that style as the origs are poor for lighting the sides of a country road - replacements shoot a wider range,

T







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