for some reason when i get my impala up to about 45+mph the whole front end starts shaking around real bad, also i just replaced both the engine &transmission and the car still seems like it maxes out @ around 60mph, if i go faster than that it seems like its beeing forced to go faster. if anyone can help me out with some advice id really appreciate it, thanks.
franciscojrandrade@yahoo.com

I'm a little confused so here come the questions....

Did this car do this before replacing the engine and trans? Were they rebuilt, used or perhaps new?

Is the shaking from the engine or steering parts suspect here?

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These cars would go 100mph with the six and most were V8s with about a half dozen different ones offered but none were meant to shake.

It also will help to know how much was done to the replacement engine,

T
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Tom Greenleaf - MetroWest, Boston

i put in a remanufactured 350 small block & turbo 350 trans, and for some reason it doesnt seem to have enough "go", any thing around 55mph and it seems stressed out. the engine has edelbrock intake & carb.

This is a very common engine and transmission. The engine "350" was not an orignial for 1963 but the same basic block and probably bolted right in.

The tune up items need to be checked and the throttle linkage must be set such that when your foot is on the floor the carb is wide open at the same time.

That doesn't account for the shaking. That could be plugs, wires, distributor, exhaust problems and on.

Saw this posted in general discussions also and it's best to just post it once. I'll check there too and see if you have any replies and can move the thread but that won't help now,

Are you doing some or all of the work on this project? It's hard to not be VERY involved with an old car and know all your parts sources. just about anything you could want is available for this car without too much trouble,

T
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Tom Greenleaf - MetroWest, Boston

hey tom thanks for your help. when i ordered the engine i asked for a 67' chevy 350. ive had a few people tell me its a 350 but out of a later model, perhaps i have the wrong plugs in it. also i just took a look @ the wires and a few of them are touching the valve covers so im hoping thats all the problem, as for the shaking i got to wait for someone to give me a hand. thanks a bunch tom.

P.S. with the engine already in place is there any were on the block that i can get #'s off to decode exactly what year block etc.. i have? thank you.

The 350 didn't start till 1969 and lowest HP was 255, dwell 30, plugs R44S and block identification is embossed on block left side of engine looking from the front and will have a two letter code like GS or something that will tell you what it is.

These engines look dang near identical so that would be the way to find out. It's not totally important right now but things like water pumps and some other things would be different. Tune up specs and firing order are really the same for all the Chev V8s in the general area. HEI ignition started in 1974. Before that a uni-set of points was available with an allen head screw to adjust points to exact spec thru a little door in the cap while the engine was running. Those worked fine but HEI you didn't have to touch unless it didn't run.

All this info will help but not imperitive to make the engine run well. It would be nice to know if it's a high compression engine or not for fuel requirements.

Hit back as needed as I do have total specs for 61 to 69 for all "American Cars" --ha -- remember when you could get them all into one book?

T
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Tom Greenleaf - MetroWest, Boston

are you sure you have drive or are you only in second as 63 chev only had 2 speed trans in auto so a lot linkage needed to be done also make shure engine gets timing ad vance check with light was this a 6 cyl or 8 cyl differt axle ratios etc and what is engine speed at 60 mph ?

I was wondering if you know how to take out the tumbler in the ignition switch in my 1964 impala? I'm trying to take off the chrome molding that the ignition switch is in but I can unscrew the ignition switch without takeing out the tumbler. Thank you Joe

Just generally for the vintage: With chrome ring removed you should be able to push the whole cylinder in to the dash and uplug it - remove and with key the tumblers will come out thru the back I think?? Without a key it's a pain and watch out for the little parts to explode out when key is removed when not in the cylinder casing,

T
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Tom Greenleaf - MetroWest, Boston

The only thing I can add/think of is: what is the ratio of your differential? the rear end? some of the 63 and 64 chev's were geared really low.

Hey Tom/all

Remembering that far back gave me a headache.
But refresh my memory,wasn't there a small pin type hole on the front of the cylinder that you could put in a paper clip type thing and release the tumbler section ?
I dont remember for sure if switch had to be removed first or not,for some reason I think it didn't .

Maybe I'm WAY2OLD now....


Jim

you are right jim, there is a pin release on it. push in with a pick or something like it, turn towards on and pull. tumbler section should come out. may have to turn back towards lock..not real sure. but there is a pin release

You really have to be an old fart to remember how to do this. Take your key and insert into tumbler, turn left to ACC, insert paperclip into the small hole in tumbler and push as far back as it will go. Then turn tumbler to the left (counter clockwise), and it should practically fall in your lap.

To reinsert tumbler, insert key into tumbler and align the keyway in back of tumbler into notch in ignition switch. Turn clockwise and it should locjk into place.

Have fun

You have two problems. ONE,you said you just put an engine and trans in the car. Check the timing on the motor. You will find the timing is advanced too far. That limits the RPM and the motor will not go past a certain rev. Yje timing wont allow it too. The shaking in the front end at 45mpg is fue to either the tires being out of balance or the tie rod ends are worn