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xwrench3
User
Jul 23, 2019, 12:26 PM
Post #1 of 13
(1263 views)
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hi, yesterday morning, i ended up in a floorboard level waterhole for about 5 hours. when we got it out, the vehicle (2000 GMC Jimmy) would not move under its own power. in low range, it made a slight effort, but it could not even muster an inch of movement. will a clutch that is soaking wet dry out? also, there is only about 1/2 the normal clutch pedal. also noteworthy, i did NOT ram on it hard to try to get it out by myself. when it started to get stuck, i quickly put it in reverse and tried to back out of the hole, but it felt like it had bottomed out, and the truck would not move forward or back.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jul 24, 2019, 1:43 AM
Post #2 of 13
(1233 views)
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What do you mean it felt like it "bottomed out?"
#1 - you need to check everything that holds or seals oil or fluids (clutch slave cylinder and hardware) and all moving parts that were submerged. Much worse if it was warm when dunked water sucks into and thru seals with shock of sudden cool/cold water. Those items will fail now or later.
It's old now not the whole point as much as GMs and all but a couple can't be submerged it's not sealed despite 4X4 or off road looking it's NOT.
Can do to a point check but expect endless surprises - this totals new unsold vehicles BTW and great harm to any,
T
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xwrench3
User
Jul 24, 2019, 7:53 AM
Post #3 of 13
(1224 views)
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well, after cleaning things up, i can see where the front k member was grounded (by the fresh scrape marks), so that would have been what stopped me in my tracks, and it explains why i could not immediately reverse out. but it does not explain why i have no drive, in any gear, in any range. i would think that 2wd would always work, since this transfer case does not have a neutral. i looked in the clutch inspection holes, and the clutch appears to be dry. i have the truck up n jack stands now. but there is absolutely no drive to any of the wheels. i know i will have to change all of the fluids, thats a given. but i have to figure out why i have no drive first. i also looked to see if anything was unplugged or disconnected, and looked for leaks and or cracks everything looks normal. i can hear the solenoids moving, and the gear shift feels normal. this seems so strange. i do not understand. i have been a (motorcycle) mechanic all of my life. so i have a good understanding of mechanical things. obviously, there are no transfer cases on bikes, but i understand how they work in general. the only thing that pops into my head is a broken input shaft, or a broken transfer case chain. the truck will roll downhill, so nothing is locked up. there was no loud bang like something broke, and i did not bang gears trying to get myself out. thats why i do not understand why i do not at least have 2wd.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jul 24, 2019, 8:16 AM
Post #4 of 13
(1220 views)
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I'll never know what to say in detail. It suffered an outright accident plus in water for hours. You see some things other you might not.
IDK. Just that stuff can bust and not make wild noise. Just that clutch pedal isn't like what it was before is the strong clue look for why or how that could be IDK if somehow jams it so it's not engaged yet see it there?
More serious inspection turning shafts and see what you can what moves when it should and not move when it shouldn't,
T
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xwrench3
User
Jul 25, 2019, 5:07 AM
Post #5 of 13
(1195 views)
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well, i got some good news last night. the wheels started turning in low range. so at least i know that nothing is broken. i was also thinking that there might be fine sand or mud between the friction surfaces. i am going to have to get help to run the vehicle and depress the clutch pedal so i can try to see what is going on in there. do oem clutches from this era (2000) have asbestos in them? i am thinking not, but i would like to be sure before i try using an air blow gun to try to blow debris out of the clutch area.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jul 25, 2019, 5:16 AM
Post #6 of 13
(1191 views)
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? I think REAL asbestos (a mined rock product I think) isn't used anymore some duplicate material that behaves as well - touchy subject that was lethal dust!
Not sure what I'd clean it with while in place. Of vehicle a clutch disc maybe a brake cleaner but if off toss for new while there. This stuff can get damp if fine mud sand is in there IDK what will get that out suks but maybe more water!
Do be careful of rubber items not to use anything so harsh it would destroy that. Tough call,
T
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xwrench3
User
Jul 25, 2019, 5:26 AM
Post #7 of 13
(1187 views)
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20 years ago, i would have already had the transfer case and transmission out of there, with the clutch apart. but i am to beat up to do that kind of work now. yea, my brother suggested brake cleaner as well. so between a couple of cans of that, and a whole lot of compressed air, hopefully i can get enough of it out to make it drive again. i thought of water as well, but if water is the problem, i would be adding weeks of dry out time to the problem by spraying a hose up in there. i really do not like getting old, but i guess its better than the alternative.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jul 25, 2019, 5:53 AM
Post #8 of 13
(1185 views)
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Water! I figured that's what carried it in then maybe it will wash it out too? Assorted fine dust was rock turned to mud so fine you could paint with it.
Test brake cleaners: We've been thru this here or there some is NASTY stuff by brand "Brakleen" is harsh, seriously NOT rubber friends, ruins painted things but is great for greasy friction parts plus it's not flammable!
Others will light up like fuel are not the same is more like Carb and Throttle body cleaner.
Friction material alone shouldn't mind it's what else gets touched by it. Any rubber, paint, glue/bonding agent more about automatic transmission stuff than this should be.
It was wet - why not try clean water?
T
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xwrench3
User
Jul 25, 2019, 9:22 AM
Post #9 of 13
(1177 views)
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well, i am going to try compressed air first, and if that doesn't cut it, i think your right. the pilot and throwout bearing are not going to like any liquid i push up in there. but water will wash out less grease than brakekleen.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jul 25, 2019, 11:48 AM
Post #10 of 13
(1166 views)
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Go for it. The due warning is clutch dust, brake dust just do no breathe that! It's true some things are greased just once t-out bearing is sealed but how well? There should be a "pilot" bushing with just a dab of grease in a bronze bushing is annooooooying if those make noise - not many do even dry just nothing you can do but take it all out to touch that,
Tom
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xwrench3
User
Jul 25, 2019, 1:19 PM
Post #11 of 13
(1158 views)
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yes, i know. i used to hot rod, and i had to manny transmissions in and out. it surprises me in this day and age that GM still uses a bushing rather than a needle bearing. but it is what it is. i can not even find the throw out bearing bleeder, i would like to change that fluid, but i am not going to pull everything apart to do it. this is my first "swamp water" immersion, and hopefully the last! so the learning curve is steep. i never want to do this again!
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jul 25, 2019, 1:35 PM
Post #12 of 13
(1154 views)
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Some may but a good reason not to like a U-joint - same reason when they all fall out! Too many mechanics also let trans hang by the output shaft a no-no end up with two problems, missing needle bearing and a warped clutch disc.
Nobody drives standards anywhere near me any more except the real trucks or neat old sports stuff. Metro Boston inland still traffic suks, stop and go how the hell do you hold two Dunkin' Donuts coffees and a donut, plus the phone and still shift? These idiots care the snots out of me!
Tom
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xwrench3
User
Jul 27, 2019, 6:21 PM
Post #13 of 13
(1134 views)
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well, i pulled the starter last night. i was going to go thru it on the bench, but it would not come out without removing a bunch of what appears to be front axle support stuff. i got up in the bellhousing with the blow gun again. and a lot of debris came out. more than the first time. so i just left it out with the fan blowing up into the bellhousing all night. i took the truck for a drive this afternoon, and the clutch now seems to work fine. not sure if i would want to tow much at this point. but for general commuting, it seems fine. there is a grinding noise from something in the front of the motor. sand contamination i am thinking.
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