|
|
rear wheels locked up, not e-brake either
|
|
|
| |
|
|
captain
New User
Mar 21, 2010, 7:51 AM
Post #1 of 7
(3953 views)
|
|
rear wheels locked up, not e-brake either
|
Sign In
|
|
alright got a
1992 subaru legacy wagon
2.2 with 207k for miles
rear wheels are locked i think it might be something to do with the differential not sure its an AWD
|
|
| |
|
|
nickwarner
Veteran
/ Moderator
Mar 21, 2010, 9:55 AM
Post #2 of 7
(3950 views)
|
|
Re: rear wheels locked up, not e-brake either
|
Sign In
|
|
unbolt the driveshaft and pull off your rear brake drums. If it won't move still, pull the diff cover and see what the carnage looks like.
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Mar 22, 2010, 4:15 AM
Post #3 of 7
(3942 views)
|
|
Re: rear wheels locked up, not e-brake either
|
Sign In
|
|
Could be wrong and there could be exceptions. I think parking brake is utilizing front brakes on this! Few of any but some did it that way. If you can just see a differential for rear wheels it's AWD - a Subaru thing. This car should be dominantly front wheel drive with rear added and recent models I believe are all AWD.
Start as Nick suggested by seeing what you can find in rear,
T
|
|
| |
|
|
captain
New User
Mar 23, 2010, 11:48 AM
Post #4 of 7
(3932 views)
|
|
Re: rear wheels locked up, not e-brake either
|
Sign In
|
|
ok well we pulled the car from the hitch with a truck the back wheels spun backwards and the front wheels spun forward???? we also jacked the car up so all 4 wheels off the ground and none of the wheels turned, the front ones looked like they wanted to turn but didnt, it seems like the back wheels are like opposing the front ones, gonna take out the driveshaft and see if it will drive with only front wheels, will all the tranny fluid leak out if i take out the drive shaft?
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Mar 23, 2010, 12:44 PM
Post #5 of 7
(3928 views)
|
|
Re: rear wheels locked up, not e-brake either
|
Sign In
|
|
I'm not so great with Subarus but if you tried with the car in neutral it should have rolled normally and while hoisted each wheel should have turned by hand. If drive shaft is splined into a gear case up front it no doubt would leak out if left out, IMO,
T
|
|
| |
|
|
captain
New User
Mar 23, 2010, 6:57 PM
Post #6 of 7
(3917 views)
|
|
Re: rear wheels locked up, not e-brake either
|
Sign In
|
|
yeah it was in neutral and if you turn one of the wheels the other wheel will turn the same way and both wheels on the other end will turn opposite of it. didn't get a chance to look at it today but i will reply back when i look at it. Another question, if the clutch is almost burned out what do i need to replace? what would it cost and how much work would it take? also how do i know what tranny i need if i want to replace it? thanks
|
|
| |
|
|
nickwarner
Veteran
/ Moderator
Mar 23, 2010, 8:18 PM
Post #7 of 7
(3915 views)
|
|
Re: rear wheels locked up, not e-brake either
|
Sign In
|
|
Why do you think you need a new tranny? A junkyard will have a parts listing which will tell what trans is in this car. Have the year, engine size and VIN handy before calling. If you need a clutch, then you need to do it right and put a new pressure plate, throwout bearing and friction disc in it. Also have a machine shop surface your flywheel. Its not expensive to have done. While its out at the machine shop, you may want to change the rear main seal as its been in there for a while, is a cheap part, and this is staring right in your face to be done. Even if it doesn't leak now, how much longer do you think it will last? Consider it cheap insurance. If this is the same AWD style as most other cars, it uses a magnetic clutch to engage the rear driveshaft and the shaft can be unbolted at the coupling flange without leakage. Others with more familiarity with your model may chime in here to say yea or nea at this point. If this is what you have instead of an actual transfer case with a slip-yoke driveshaft, you can remove the rear shaft and test from there safely without fluid leakage. Have the car scanned with a good scanner (this may cost a few bucks but worth it) to see if there are any drivetrain codes. Generic scanners only pull engine codes, and your problem lies elsewhere. Obviously this scan isn't free because of the cost of the tool. I bought a SnapOn Solus Pro a month and a half ago. It was $4000. Thats why the shops charge for it, to cover the cost of the tool.
|
|
| |
|
| | |
|
Auto Repair Home
SEARCH
WHO'S 
LOG 
Drive Shaft Repair
2006 Toyoto Camry XLE Driver Side Electric Window Trouble
Grounding Cable, 2017 Jeep Renegade Trailhawk
equipment
Howdy
