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help! I'm stuck!


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Spicemaster
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Jun 14, 2017, 1:29 PM

Post #1 of 26 (765 views)
help! I'm stuck! Sign In

Hi guys...I am replacing the clutch in my 07 kia( 1.6 dohc) and i have a serious problem. I have removed everything from the tranny, took out the transaxle, and removed all the bolts.... But the housing will not come loose! I've worked a couple of screwdrivers in where I can, and it will separate a litte on the underside, but it is almost like it's still bolted at the top. Any hints would be greatly appreciated. This car is driving me.to the brink of insanity!


Sidom
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Jun 14, 2017, 2:05 PM

Post #2 of 26 (761 views)
Re: help! I'm stuck! Sign In

Hang tight before you pry anymore.....


Not positive on the Kia's but I know the Hyundias have dual mass flywheel that you can damage if you pry to hard.......On the Hyundia's you need to remove the clutch fork off the trans or it won't come out.......If you pry too hard you will trash the flywheel...


When you "move" the tranny back if it looks like the fork is pulling end, then more than likely you will have to remove it....


What type of Kia is it?






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(This post was edited by Sidom on Jun 14, 2017, 2:14 PM)


Spicemaster
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Jun 14, 2017, 2:58 PM

Post #3 of 26 (740 views)
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It's a kia rio... I'll try to move the fork and let you know


Hammer Time
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Jun 14, 2017, 3:09 PM

Post #4 of 26 (736 views)
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Make sure you actually have all the bolts out. There may be some coming from the other direction.



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Sidom
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Jun 14, 2017, 3:27 PM

Post #5 of 26 (730 views)
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I didn't see anything out of the ordinary......Like Ht said......Double check around the bellhousing to make sure you didn't miss any bolts.....some come thru at the other way at the bottom...Usually in the place that's the worst to get to....






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Spicemaster
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Jun 14, 2017, 3:43 PM

Post #6 of 26 (724 views)
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Actually, the bell housing is in 2 parts...which I found out the hard way... And I only have to take out the front half of it... I found a little info through a chilton manual, but it was a brief diagram; not enough info to do the whole job step by step


Sidom
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Jun 14, 2017, 4:32 PM

Post #7 of 26 (708 views)
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Well I haven't had the pleasure of doing that model so I'm just going off what I see in my data base and it doesn't sound like what you are working on.

The 2 piece bellhousing sounds a bit odd...

Check the 10th digit of your vin......should be a 7

What I have is showing the transaxle & bellhousing as 1 piece....

If someone else has something different, hopefully they'll post it






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Hammer Time
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Jun 14, 2017, 5:41 PM

Post #8 of 26 (702 views)
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I'm not sure what you're attempting to do here but in order to remove the transmission on this car you have to support the engine from above and remove the sub-frame below.

There is no second bellhousing, just where it separates from the engine.









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(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Jun 14, 2017, 5:42 PM)


Spicemaster
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Jun 19, 2017, 8:06 AM

Post #9 of 26 (653 views)
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Am i seeing this right? Am i going to have to remove the entire steering transaxle to get the subframe off? Or can i unbolt from the subframe and let it hang?


Hammer Time
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Jun 19, 2017, 12:34 PM

Post #10 of 26 (629 views)
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No, the subframe has to be removed completely and the engine supported from above.

This is not unusual these days.



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Spicemaster
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Jun 19, 2017, 12:39 PM

Post #11 of 26 (625 views)
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God I miss the days of good old cold rolled Detroit steel!


Hammer Time
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Jun 19, 2017, 12:46 PM

Post #12 of 26 (621 views)
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Front wheel drive is a whole different animal.



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Sidom
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Jun 19, 2017, 7:56 PM

Post #13 of 26 (613 views)
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In Reply To
Am i going to have to remove the entire steering transaxle to get the subframe off? Or can i unbolt from the subframe and let it hang?


If by the steering transaxle you mean the rack & pinion/steering gear.....Yes you can just unbolt it and secure it.....One more step I would suggest would be to go inside and take the steering coupler loose from the column and disconnect that as well (mark it with white out 1st)....if that rack slips you could do some serious damage to the column...

by your posted, i had assumed you already had the subframe out....I imagine you already know but just in case you do need to support the engine from up top before you drop the subframe






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(This post was edited by Sidom on Jun 19, 2017, 7:59 PM)


Spicemaster
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Jun 19, 2017, 8:26 PM

Post #14 of 26 (605 views)
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I appreciate the heads up on the coupling...and I do have the engine supported from the top and a couple of bolts holding thr tranny until i can get a floor jack under it... Man, i have never had a car kick my ass like this!


Sidom
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Jun 19, 2017, 8:38 PM

Post #15 of 26 (599 views)
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Yea the 1st fwd tranny can really be a PITA......After you do a few of them they aren't too bad.....On a lift, you can drop a subframe rather quickly.....I don't think I've ever done one on my back, so you definitely have my sympathy....

Personally I would never disconnect the coupler, on flat rate, time is money but I did see a few guys have their bungy cords come loose & stretch an SRS cable....Frown

Also, once again, I'm sure you already did it....but pull the key out of the ign before you take the coupler off so the steering wheel doesn't turn....






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Hammer Time
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Jun 20, 2017, 5:52 AM

Post #16 of 26 (581 views)
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Quote
Also, once again, I'm sure you already did it....but pull the key out of the ign before you take the coupler off so the steering wheel doesn't turn....


Because it will over wind the clockspring and break it.



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Spicemaster
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Jun 25, 2017, 9:10 AM

Post #17 of 26 (553 views)
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So i have been trying to disconnect the steering axle with no luck...and taking a closer look, how difficult is it to just remove and replace the pinion assembly? It seems that if I disconnected that, I could drop the subframe no problem...any thoughts?


Hammer Time
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Jun 25, 2017, 9:17 AM

Post #18 of 26 (547 views)
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I don't know what you are calling a steering axle but yes, you can unbolt the rack from the sub-frame along with any line hold downs that may be attached to the frame also. Actually you have to leave the rack in the car as all the lines are attached to the engine.



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Sidom
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Jun 25, 2017, 9:27 AM

Post #19 of 26 (543 views)
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That depends on the tech....There is always more than one way to get there.....I'm assuming you are talking about the steering gear/rack & pinion/rack.....Most rack's have 2 mountings to the frame, 2 outer tie rod ends, a steering coupler, 2 p/s hose and maybe some electrical connections....All these would need to be disconnected to remove the rack....That would be a lot more work & reinstalling p/s hoses on some racks can be a total PITA......Personally I would just take the 2 mounts & 1 TRE loose & hang the rack with 1 or 2 large zip ties and bungy cords.....For safety it would be better than you take the couple extra step we already talked about, including taking the key out of the ign.....

If you are talking about dropping the frame with the rack still mounted to it......That's another way to get there....I've seen guys do that....and even with a lift.....it's a pain to get the rack's coupler lined up with the steering column on reassembly and then you still have the hoses as well.......

Are you having trouble with the mountings?






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Spicemaster
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Jun 25, 2017, 9:28 AM

Post #20 of 26 (539 views)
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Sorry, used the wrong term. Its the rack that i can't get off the subframe... It's bolted from the top and i can't reach the bolts to remove them; but it looks like if I disconnect the pinion assembly from the car, i can drop the subframe enough to move the tranny out enough to replace the clutch. What I am wondering is how hard it is to remove and replace the pinion assembly; it looks like it is just a rubber boot holding it with four connecting points


Hammer Time
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Jun 25, 2017, 9:32 AM

Post #21 of 26 (533 views)
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It has a tie rod at each end connected along with 2 hoses and the coupler. Your best bet would be as Sidom suggests and unbolt it from the frame and let it hang from the engine with the hoses connected.



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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



Spicemaster
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Jun 25, 2017, 10:36 AM

Post #22 of 26 (527 views)
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It has a shaft that has tie rods at eithr end, with a 90 that runs up into the body[ where I assume the pinion assembly is], no hoses... And two additional rods that connect to the suspension. The part that is keeping me from moving the tranny the 6 inches I need is what i am calling the pinion assembly...does that help? This was a bare-bones model...no power anything.


Hammer Time
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Jun 25, 2017, 10:42 AM

Post #23 of 26 (523 views)
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Of course it has hoses unless for some reason you don't have power steering and I doubt that.



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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



Spicemaster
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Jun 25, 2017, 10:59 AM

Post #24 of 26 (517 views)
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No hoses...so is it safe to disconnect the pinion assembly? And more importantly will it go back together easily or is there a trick to it?


Sidom
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Jun 25, 2017, 12:14 PM

Post #25 of 26 (510 views)
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I don't see any electric steer options for this year or a manual rack....The "hoses" are steel lines at the the connections......with rubber in the middle. The rack also has complete steel lines on it for internal pressure transfer that don't come off, they are part of the assembly.....If you choose the route you are thinking about,....don't take off the wrong lines......This has a standard clamp (2 bolts) on the the R side and a solid 2 bolt mount on the left that mounts the rack to the frame.....Position the coupler pinch bolt in a spot you can easily remove, take the key out of the ign...Mark the steering coupler on the column with whiteout and remove....Now if you you loosen the rear sub frame bolts, you may be able to drop the frame enough to access the rack mounting bolts easier and remove.....obviously sercuring the rack so it can "hang" safely once the bolts are removed.....

If you choose the route you are thinking about....The coupler steps are the same.......The hoses are on the "tower" (top part) of the rack on the left side....Should be 18mm nuts.....Just know this....Those can be difficult to start sometimes and it is very easy to crossthread the nuts....never use a wrench to start those...and some use the same thread size for high and low pressure so be absolutely sure of which hoses goes to which port before you take them off....

Working on your back sux....I get it....So you decide on the best path...just understand the pitfalls of each route....I'm going off the top of my head but don't think I've forgotten anything....If I have, i'm sure one of the other guys will jump in






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