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Codes after rebuild - '99 4L60-E 2.2L

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Jul 17, 2014, 5:43 AM

Post #1 of 20 (1500 views)
Codes after rebuild - '99 4L60-E 2.2L Sign In

Glad I found this site - now I just hope that you can help me. The first thing i would like to do is apologize for the long post I am about to write, but i feel that you need the whole story in order to help diagnose my problems.

Secondly, the vehicle information (as requested):
1999 Chevy S-10
2.2L w/ 4L60-E
Approx. 212k miles

OK, the story first:
I purchased this truck for my 16 yr old son a year and a half ago. Everything worked fine on it when we got it. After about 3 months, we decided it would be best if we did a compete service on the truck - including fluid and filter on the transmission.

As a disclaimer...i am not a tranny guru. i know my way around a garage, but have never dealt with a transmission....

This transmission came equipped with a deep fluid pan - at the time, we didn't know that the shallow pan was an option. We replaced the filter with the exact same filter that was originally on the truck - which we later found out was a shallow pan filter.

When refilling the tranny with fluid, we filled it until the dipstick read full (cold running engine). Again - we recently found out that this is not the original dipstick (explain later).

As you can probably expect - it wasn't long until we started having transmission slip problems. We started throwing the TCC lock up code - so I purchased the Sonnax TCC repair kit and had it installed in the valve body. I was still throwing engine codes after that and we were quickly approaching emissions testing time - so i opted to replace the transmission with one from the local pull-a-part salvage yard.

Once the "new" transmission was installed, I put the old transmission pan (because we had installed a drain plug) and did a filter/fluid change...again using a shallow filter for a deep pan (remember, I knew no better at the time). The transmission worked good enough to get me through the emission's inspection, but within a few weeks, it started acting up too.

So, I put the original back in as it was in better shape than the "new" one.

Eventually, we lost all gears except 1st gear. So, I figured it was just best to rebuild the transmission. I tore down both transmissions so that i could use the best internals I had. Then i purchased an ATP master rebuild kit (clutches and seals) and I started the rebuild. In the process, i cleaned EVERY component that came out of either transmission.

I was able to find a procedures guide on-line and followed it to a T - even making sure to stack the clutches.steels in the right order for the 2.2L engine. I even totally dismantled the valve body and cleaned/rebuilt it as well.

When purchasing the new filter for this transmission, someone FINALLY asked me if it was a deep pan or a shallow pan...I said I didn't know there was a different option and told them I had a shallow pan.

We installed the transmission and started adding fluid. After about 6 quarts, we checked the fluid level and the dipstick read FULL. This did not sound right as I knew that this transmission held a minimum of 11.2 quarts. We decided to try it any how.

While on the lift, we ran the truck through the gears and everything seemed fine. Lowered the truck down and was able to back off the lift and out of the shop with no problems...then I started backing up hill and the transmission started slipping. It was late, so i just pulled the truck back in the shop and shut it down for the day.

On the way home, I thought about the deep pan vs. the shallow pan and realized that I did, indeed, have a deep pan. I made the connection that the shallow filter wasn't low enough to pick up the fluid and decided I was going to stop the next day and get the deep pan filter.

Changed out the filter and added two more quarts of fluid. So, at this point, i had a total of 8 quarts of fluid and an estimated 1 quart still in the converter - for a total of 9 quarts (assumed).

Truck backed up fine. Started forward fine, but then took a while to shift in to 2nd gear. Shifted in to third fine but i don't remember it shifting any higher on the test drive.

We assumed that it just needed more fluid, so i decided to drive it home (5 miles) and stop by to get more fluid on the way home. On the way to Autozone, the check engine light came on. So, while I was there, I went ahead and had them pull the codes. Then added two more quarts of fluid and drove on home. transmission still did not feel as if it was going in to 1st gear but all other gears felt fine.

OK - wrapping this up now and getting to the reason for this posting:
The transmission now has a true 12 quarts of fluid in it - with an estimated additional quart that was in the converter when reinstalled - for a total of 13 quarts of fluid. It now has the proper filter in place.

The truck still doesn't have 1st gear now does it appear to have 4th (D) and no idea on the TC lock up.

The codes that were listed are:
P0218 - transmission overheat - low fluid (DUH!!!)
P0751 - 1-2 shift solenoid valve performance
P0756 - 2-3 shift solenoid valve performance

Both 0751 and 0756 stated "solenoid failure - repair other codes first"..which led me to think that low fluid was the overall problem and adding more fluid (not overfilling) would solve all of the problems.

i have also noticed a very slight "clatter" coming from the transmission when it shafts from 2nd to 3rd. All the clutches felt nice and tight when installed.

Apparently not because i am still having the same issues.

So, if anyone is still awake after reading all of this, do any of you have any suggestions for fixing the issue???

My next step in self-diagnostics is to check the main electrical connection going in to the transmission. If that doesn't fix it, I plan on dropping the pan and changing out the solenoid valves.

Unless, of course, any of you have alternate suggestions.

FYI - When I tore apart the transmission that totally went out, there was a lot of black "dust" and clutch face particles in the pan. Which is why I thoroughly cleaned every component before it went back in - if reused.

OK - now any ideas?? i am all ears and begging for help...

Thank you

Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Discretesignals profile image

Jul 17, 2014, 11:34 AM

Post #2 of 20 (1477 views)
Re: Codes after rebuild - '99 4L60-E 2.2L Sign In

This sounds like a monkey humping a foot ball. You got pieces from a salvage yard transmission all cobbled into a mess. You don't know anything about transmission service and overhauling, so more than likely there are tons of things you did wrong.

My advice is to swing into a reputable transmission shop and have them look it over.

Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.


Jul 18, 2014, 2:16 AM

Post #3 of 20 (1458 views)
Re: Codes after rebuild - '99 4L60-E 2.2L Sign In

First off, your knowledge and contributions that you can possibly bring to this site are appreciated. I understand, completely, that this is/was your trade and you have every right to do/say what you will in order to protect it.

With that said, and with all due respect, I am NOT an idiot. Admittedly, I probably gave much more information than what was needed in order to help give a possible diagnosis of my problem. One thing that I did leave out was that I did not go at this alone. I had a friend helping me that was familiar with rebuilding transmissions - as a semi-profession. When he lived up North, he, and his brothers, had a shop where they worked on farm equipment and the locals would bring their cars to them for repair. They mainly specialized in hot rod setups (blower motors and restorations (mechanically and cosmetically)). The only thing is that his experience was limited to non-electric transmissions (350 Turbo, 700R, Powerglide, C6, C4, etc). This was the first of the newer transmissions that he had worked on.

As far as I go - I am a mechanical engineer and I specialize in robotics and hydraulicly driven apparatuses. Technically, I could design, and build, a transmission from the ground up - including all of the CNC work that goes along with it (yes, I can do that too). However, I am not overly versed in the electronic controls.

Yes, I "cobbled" two transmissions together in order to produce one complete transmission. I used the original case and tailstock from the transmission that came out of the truck. As for the internals of the transmission, I compared each part for wear and tear. If a part from the "junkyard" transmission was in better shape, I then dimensionally checked everything to make sure it was the EXACT same part. If there was a difference, I would use the original part that came with the original case.

Both transmissions were 4L60e that came off of a 2.2L 4 cylinder engine. It's not like I was taking components from a C6 and using it in a 4L60e. The only difference between the two was year model. My original transmission was a 1999 and the junkyard transmission was a 2000. Of which, the master rebuild kit was the right one for both - which tells me that there wasn't much, if any, difference in the internals.

Based on the troubles that I am having, the self-diagnostics I have completed and the research I have put in - I believe that my problem is with a solenoid, a servo or an electrical issue related to the wiring. I do not believe that this is something related to the "cobbl"ing together of two transmissions.

I openly admitted that I was not a transmission guru and that I was coming to this site for help. Maybe I am wrong, but I thought that this would be a good place for the do-it-yourselfer to come and get some helpful advice and possible diagnostic assistance.

Yes, you did give me some advice and it is not going unnoticed. However, if you are offended by the fact that I am doing this on my "own", and the only advice/help you can give is "swing in to a reputable transmission shop and have them look it over" - well, being polite, that MAY be the ultimate resolution, but not until I can give it my all. I don't give up that easily. There were several others who read the posting - and I am sure that some of them may have felt the same way that you did - but they just passed on without saying anything and did not chastise me in the process.

You ARE entitled to your opinion and I can respect that, but I believe that those who never try...never succeed.

I did read through a few pages of the forum before I posted anything.I did notice that you are a very active member on this site and I truly do not mean to offend you. However, I also noticed that you do, quiet often, tell people to take it to a shop for repair.

NOW - unless you, or anyone else, are/is totally offended by this posting, I would like to offer up further information that I have found with my diagnostics...

As I mentioned in my original posting, all of the trouble codes pointed at either a low fluid level or a bad solenoid (A and/or B). Unless my math is off, I had a minimum of 12 quarts of fluid in the transmission (I pulled the pan and valve body back off last night). I also checked the Ohms of the A and B solenoids.

According to the research I have done, I should be between 19 and 24 Ohms on a cold engine. I was measuring 20.2 and 21.9 - so the solenoids appear to be good.

So, I believe that the problem is related to a servo or an electrical issue. The transmission appears to be in "limp mode" and only allows for 2nd and 3rd gear.

Does anyone have any helpful suggestions as to what I should look at next?

And, proving that I did NOT ignore the last posters advice, if I can't get this figured out, i will take it to a specialist - but only after I have exhausted any/all leads I can follow. I understand that the advice given may have been given in an effort to help save my sanity and my wallet, in the long run. I do not plan on pumping any extra funds in to the transmission and vow to troubleshoot what I currently have. If I have to put any more money in this, it will be through a service shop.

(This post was edited by Big_Deddie on Jul 18, 2014, 2:16 AM)

Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Hammer Time profile image

Jul 18, 2014, 3:28 AM

Post #4 of 20 (1449 views)
Re: Codes after rebuild - '99 4L60-E 2.2L Sign In

As far as I go - I am a mechanical engineer

Uh Oh, shouldn't have said that.


We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.

GC profile image

Jul 18, 2014, 5:58 AM

Post #5 of 20 (1438 views)
Re: Codes after rebuild - '99 4L60-E 2.2L Sign In

+1 to DS. You should be trained and experienced in modern transmission work before attempting this. Its not a matter of being an idiot or not. Im sure youre smart enough to do it, with training and experience. Im a smart guy, but I dont do surgery on myself. My bet is that there are some issues inside that require special testing to find, and that solenoid replacement is not going to change anything.

The pros here advise people to take it to a shop for repair when they feel that people are dealing with too complex an issue for their level of expertise or tooling. In this case, you need some special transmission service tools to verify operation, so dont take offense at being advised to take it to a shop, you will save lots of money by paying a good tech with proper tools to diagnose the issue, trust me. For instance, last week I diagnosed an ignition switch problem for a customer for $50 that they had spent over $300 in guessing and googling and throwing parts at. It wasnt because the customer was an idiot, just didnt have the tools and info and training to make the diagnosis.

Willing to help, willing to learn... Rob

(This post was edited by GC on Jul 18, 2014, 6:29 AM)

Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Discretesignals profile image

Jul 18, 2014, 6:55 AM

Post #6 of 20 (1433 views)
Re: Codes after rebuild - '99 4L60-E 2.2L Sign In

When you do a rebuild, it is a good idea to not reuse the old solenoids. It should get new PCS, SS1, SS2, TCC, and 3-2 shift soleniods along with electrical harness. You have over 200K on plastic electrical parts that do wear out. Did you flush or replace the cooler and lines? When you pulled the valve body apart did you check for worn out valve bores? Did you rebuild the pump? There are so many things to performing a sucessful rebuild, that it can't be listed in here.

What was wrong with the old transmission when you took it apart. Did you perform electrical checks before condemning the old transmission? What was smoked or broken? Finding the cause of why the old one failed is the key to making sure the replacement transmission doesn't suffer the same fate.

Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.

Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Jul 18, 2014, 7:20 AM

Post #7 of 20 (1427 views)
Re: Codes after rebuild - '99 4L60-E 2.2L Sign In

My 2 cents but was trying to stay out of this. It takes a ton of clean working space and specialty tools that I personally never had room for AND if that was my thing it would be the only thing as most shops specialize in it and gear cases only. Many to most new car dealers locally don't do their own even under warranty but have set agreements with the specialty shops.

Yes - did them in training with all tools available then.

Used is used and always AYOR. Been lucky as locally would not be able to take a trans out but rather pick one for the place usually or if already pulled go look at the vehicle it came from. Ah Ha! Then you see (hopefully) recent reason for it being there, last inspection sticker and sometimes valuable info in glove box of a history. The places I have used test major component parts and print out results. Pressure test when possible or know the vehicle drove in. Doesn't help them or customer if anything fails.

DS (discretesignals) mentioned an important point. When one failed/burned up from slipping usually you need to flush that junk out of the trans cooler as well or you just put it back in the next one!

OK, nuff said,



Jul 18, 2014, 7:55 AM

Post #8 of 20 (1423 views)
Re: Codes after rebuild - '99 4L60-E 2.2L Sign In this is all a much better explanation. As I said in the last posting - I was not trying to be insulting, but you're original answer was a little short and vague.

Thank you to all that have responded thus far. I certainly hope that my rant, if you want to call it that, will not keep any one from responding to my questions and request for help.

I do realize that an actual transmission specialist will have all of the required tools that are needed. They are FAR more suited to diagnose and repair the issues than I am. I completely understand that.
My biggest problem with going to a shop right now is that my son starts college in a month and I am trying to save every dollar I can right now. I know that this may not be fair to any of y'all, but i certainly hope that y'all understand.

Admittedly, I did not replace the old solenoids or the electrical harness. Maybe i am an idiot for this statement but, the electrical harness and the solenoids from the "junkyard" transmission were in excellent shape.

I know that looks can be deceiving, but all of the lock tabs were in tact, there were no frayed wires and there was no damage to the plastic "locks" that hold the harness at the bolts of the valve body.

The same holds true for all of the internal components inside the "junkyard" transmission as well. There were o visible wear marks. The band looked real good. There was no signs of damage what-so-ever.

Answering the other questions:
Yes - we flushed the cooler lines. Did not replace, but we did flush them.

No - I did not check for worn out valve bores by measurement. We did, however, clean and inspect the bores for debris/damage and made sure that valves fit properly (not too loose and not too tight). Physical measurements = no

Yes - we rebuilt the pump.

What was wrong with the original and the junkyard when I took them out:

The start of the problem was that the check engine light came on. When coded, it gave a code for the TCC valve. I did some research and found that Sonnax made a repair sleeve/replacement valve that would fix the problem.
I ordered the part(s) and took the valve body to a local transmission specialist and had them bore the TCC valve bore (per the directions from Sonnax) and had them install the repair kit.
This repaired the issue for about two weeks when the check engine light came back on. Sorry, i don't remember what the code was for this one off the top of my head.

Because the truck was due for an emissions test within a week of the check engine light coming back on, I opted to just see if I could find a "junkyard" transmission that I could install and hopefully get me through the emissions test at the very least. I literally installed the transmission and drove it the required 50+ miles (51 miles to be exact) and had the emissions test performed.

A month later, the "junkyard" transmission started having trouble with reverse - sometimes it would work and sometimes it wouldn't. Then it got to where it would not drop down in to second gear. It would always start off in second or higher.

To me, I just thought that it was time to do a rebuild but knew I had the original transmission just sitting there. So, I pulled the valve body off of the "junkyard" transmission and installed it on the "original" transmission - remember the whole issue with the original was the code for the TCC valve. I was simply that by marrying these two together, I would be OK.

Believe it or not, but this worked GREAT for a few months. Then the original transmission started slipping too. I know this was the wrong thing to do, but we just drove it until it got to an absolute replace situation.

When all was said and done - the truck ONLY had 1st gear. All of the gears literally went within 2 days of the first problem.

Three weeks ago, I went out and bought a 3rd transmission. This one was actually from a 2003 GMC Sonoma with a 4.3L in it. Knowing that these transmission were three piece units, I figured I could just swap the bellhousing and all would be good. At the time, I didn't realize that the input shafts were different - which was my first inclination that this transmission was different than the others (I later found out that there is more to it than just that as well).

Now, I did not realize the difference with the input shafts until I tried installing the original converter on the '03 transmission. Before I had gotten to this point, I had already pulled the old transmission from the truck and had pulled the pan from the '03 transmission to replace the filter.

Blah...blah...blah...making a long story as short as possible...

I believe that all of my problems come from two very basic and simple issues:
1) the wrong filter had been in place the whole time (shallow when it should have been a deep)
2) The wrong dipstick was in the truck from when I bought it.

These two reasons left the transmission starving for fluid and caused excessive heat build-up inside the transmission.

The evidence I have to support this is the discolored metal components in the original transmission that totally "Sh!t the bed" (sorry for the language). Some of the pieces were almost totally "blued".

I did not reuse ANY of these components as I had no idea if they were warped due to excessive heat or not. instead, I used the components out of the "junkyard" transmission as I rebuilt.

As I have mentioned earlier, the two donor transmissions were from the same "generation" (98-02 - I believe is that generation), so all of the internal components should be interchangeable.

I can assure you that, aside from my snafu of replacing with the wrong filter due to lack of knowing there was a difference, I thoroughly did my research before I decided to tear in to this whole thing.

Honestly, I would do it again as I have thoroughly enjoyed the learning process and truly understanding how these things all work - that's just the engineer in me.

Again - I really do appreciate any help and advise that will aid me up until the point of me having to take it in to a professional.


Jul 18, 2014, 8:08 AM

Post #9 of 20 (1419 views)
Re: Codes after rebuild - '99 4L60-E 2.2L Sign In

Mr. Greenleaf - I do not disagree with you in the least bit.

Guys - I can assure you that I understand that there are specialty tools required to do some of this "stuff". I am not arguing that at all.

Even with me being an engineer - I have a son starting college and I just, honestly, did not have the money to invest in having a professional do the work. It has nothing to do with me thinking that I can do it better than anyone else. I never thought this would be an easy task. I knew it would be a challenge and I enjoy the challenge.

I did not do this just to save money either. I wanted to learn...I wanted to know what makes these things tick.

I don't want anybody to feel as if they should stay out of this conversation. I openly invite all to participate. I just don't want to be chastised for trying.

Honestly, SingleDigits (I believe that was his screen name), came across a bit insulting with the way he made his first comment. Maybe I just took it wrong - maybe I didn't. To me, and at this point, it doesn't matter. I noticed that he has since responded again and asked valuable questions that I could provide answers to.

Maybe the professionals feel as if I am insulting their profession by sounding as if I thought this would be easy...I can assure you that I NEVER thought this would be easy.

I haven't meant anything I have said in an insulting manner. I am honestly looking for help and advice. Yes, I was advised to take it to a professional - I am not ignoring that advice. However, I will try to figure it out on my own. Even if, for no other reason, it is just to say that "I did it."

**EDIT** I meant to say that I would like to be able to complete this on my own - without having to take it to a professional...I would still like for all of you to respond with helpful knowledge.

(This post was edited by Big_Deddie on Jul 18, 2014, 8:12 AM)

GC profile image

Jul 18, 2014, 9:25 AM

Post #10 of 20 (1413 views)
Re: Codes after rebuild - '99 4L60-E 2.2L Sign In

Im not a trans guy, so take this for what its worth.

To have a start in the right direction on this, I would be grabbing a good scanner with datastream capabilities to see if shifts are being commanded by the pcm properly, verify sensor outputs, etc... If everything seems good, then I would start testing electronics to verify proper operation. Then need to hook up pressure gauges to check line pressures. Thats all just to get a start on the diagnosis.

To do all these things you need access to service info and know how to interpret it. I'm not qualified to guide you through the process, just trying to show you that its well worth your time and money to take it in to a good trans shop. Buying the tools required for diagnosis, let alone repair, is not practical for the DIY.

All that said, I would put money on a trans shop saying that it needs to be completely rebuilt properly. I know when someone brings me something that they have torn into, I have to go through the whole thing to make sure that I get it back to 100% since I dont know what has or hasnt been done in there, and dont want my name on someone elses work.

Willing to help, willing to learn... Rob


Jul 21, 2014, 2:02 AM

Post #11 of 20 (1373 views)
Re: Codes after rebuild - '99 4L60-E 2.2L Sign In

OK, so I found, and resolved, one of the issues I was having.
As I was scrolling through the overhaul manual I had downloaded, I came across something that caught my attention. There was a picture showing the case checkball next to the 3-4 accumulator. I did not remember seeing this ball in place when we reassembled the transmission. So, I asked my friend, the one who was helping me with the rebuild, if he remembered it and he did not.

Dropped the pan, the valve body, 1-2 accumulator and spacer plate - sure enough...the checkball was not where it was supposed to be.

So, I put the checkball in place and put everything back together.

NOW - I have first gear back!!

As it stands now, I have R,1,2 and 3. However, I am still lacking anything higher than that. My focus will now be on the 2-4 servo assembly. I am curious as to whether or not the band apply pin is the correct one or not.

I do know that i had replaced the original servo assembly with the one from the junkyard transmission. Now, I am wondering if the band apply pin is the right one for my setup.

I think I am going to dismantle this servo assembly and compare the pin that is currently installed with the pin that came out of the original transmission.

I know that some of you will be reluctant to offer any other advise above and beyond the suggestion of taking it to a professional - and if that is the case, I completely understand. However, if you are still willing to offer mechanical suggestions, I would greatly appreciate it.

AND again...just to show that I am not totally ignoring the advise of taking it to a professional, I have already made plans to take it to another friend of mine this weekend - IF I can't get this figured out this week. This friend is a certified GM mechanic who runs his own business from his home and he has a full time transmission specialist that works with him. I did not go to him first because he is 2 hours away from me and I do not have a trailer to haul this truck around.

For any, and all, that have offered up ANY advise - I appreciate it.


Jul 22, 2014, 6:19 AM

Post #12 of 20 (1360 views)
Re: Codes after rebuild - '99 4L60-E 2.2L Sign In

So, I talked with my other friend - the one who is the GM certified mechanic - regarding the 4/OD issue I am having. I told him that I had checked the Ohms of the solenoids and that they checked out fine.

He suggested that I check the Ohm reading on the connectors from the wiring harness - however, he did not know what they should be off the top of his head.

Do any of you happen to know what Ohm reading i should at the contact pins of the wiring harness where they connect to the 1-2 and 3-4 solenoids?

All help/info is much appreciated.


Jul 23, 2014, 8:31 AM

Post #13 of 20 (1342 views)
Re: Codes after rebuild - '99 4L60-E 2.2L Sign In

Just for information purposes - and in case anyone is still reading this thread to find out if I found a resolution as they might be experiencing the same issue.....

I believe i have solved all of the issues relating to the actual driving of the truck.

1st gear - no checkball installed in the case side of the separator plate.

4th/OD - the 4th apply piston was left out of the 2-4 servo when reinstalling. In my defense, the rebuild manual did not show this part as a separate unit in the diagrams or in the nomenclature accompanying the diagrams.

I only noticed this when I took apart the 2-4 servo on the left over case in an effort to trouble shoot before taking apart the servo on the truck transmission. As I took off the cap, I saw the 4th apply piston and remembered seeing the same part laying loose in one of the boxes of parts I had.

My plan is to dismantle the 204 servo on the truck - check to see if the 4th apply piston is missing - and reinstall properly. Then I will test drive to check and make sure that all 4 gears change properly.

If this fixes the gear change problem, I will then try to tackle the CEL issues. I am hoping that this will rectify all the issues and all will be good.

I will report back when done...

Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Jul 23, 2014, 8:43 AM

Post #14 of 20 (1341 views)
Re: Codes after rebuild - '99 4L60-E 2.2L Sign In

#1 - Not my specialty on purpose as said earlier. Just TMK and could be wrong but this isn't a real 4 spd trans but a 3 speed that locks converter 1 to 1 instead of the normal loss it feels like 4th. Again TMK the locking happens inside converter and sorry if I missed it but don't recall you replacing it just because you were there and not sure how much junk you can get out of them from a failed trans before it,


Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Hammer Time profile image

Jul 23, 2014, 8:51 AM

Post #15 of 20 (1336 views)
Re: Codes after rebuild - '99 4L60-E 2.2L Sign In

Yep, they don't work too good when you leave parts out.


We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.


Jul 23, 2014, 8:56 AM

Post #16 of 20 (1334 views)
Re: Codes after rebuild - '99 4L60-E 2.2L Sign In

I think I understood that...

Yes, to the best of my knowledge, the 4L60e is a 3spd with OD which "classifies" as a 4 speed. I don't believe it is a "true" 4 spd - just as you stated. As mentioned, this is to the best of my knowledge and i am not opposed to being corrected if I am wrong.

As for the torque converter...I did NOT install a "new" torque converter on this transmission. I read somewhere that you only want to replace the TC if it has gone bad and/or the transmission takes a total dive where it leaves particles in the transmission pan.

I DID, however, put the TC from the "junkyard" transmission on the rebuilt transmission as the "junkyard" transmission didn't suffer the catastrophic failure that the other one did. I flushed this TC out as best as I could before installing and filling with fluid though.


Jul 23, 2014, 9:02 AM

Post #17 of 20 (1332 views)
Re: Codes after rebuild - '99 4L60-E 2.2L Sign In

In Reply To
Yep, they don't work too good when you leave parts out.

YEP - I agree...

While the pros will probably laugh at this, I did go back and find a video on youtube referencing the 2-4 servo assembly. When the demonstrator took off the servo cap, he noted that the 4th apply piston was in place. He then also noted that if you do not see it, it may very well be "stuck" in the servo cap.

My guess is that when we took the servo apart, the piston was stuck in the cap and then fell out after placing it on the table. We just didn't notice it before it "fell" out - which would explain why we didn't realize that it had been left out.

As for the case checkball - we just simply missed it all together. Neither of us remember removing the checkball to begin with.

Guess it's just the little things that get you....


Jul 24, 2014, 9:12 AM

Post #18 of 20 (1313 views)
Re: Codes after rebuild - '99 4L60-E 2.2L Sign In


Installed the 4th apply piston last night. Test drove went flawlessly. All gears change properly and when they are supposed to.

I could not get the check engine to go off - no matter what I tried. I tried negative terminal removal and even removed both terminals. Left them off for about 30 minutes. Light was still on.

Got a text message from my son a little while ago stating that the check engine has finally went out. YAY!!!

The only thing that still bothers me:
Under normal acceleration - everything works/sounds perfect.
Under HEAVY acceleration - I hear a "clattering" noise as the transmission goes into shift from 1-2 and 2-3. I do not hear it on OD engagement nor do I hear it when it downshifts - even when hitting passing gear.

Any ideas?

Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Jul 24, 2014, 11:13 AM

Post #19 of 20 (1309 views)
Re: Codes after rebuild - '99 4L60-E 2.2L Sign In

OK Crazy

With all this just maybe now it's a motor mount or trans mount? Anything loose that has been disturbed - exhaust or anything messed with to get this sucker in and out........



Aug 1, 2014, 12:16 PM

Post #20 of 20 (1279 views)
Re: Codes after rebuild - '99 4L60-E 2.2L Sign In

Sorry Tom - i have just now saw that you asked this question...

My son has been driving the truck for a week or so now and he hasn't said if the truck as still doing the "clatter" sound or not. I plan on driving it again this weekend to see if it i still doing it.

So far, everything seems to be doing good, as far as performance goes. The check engine light has been off and that's a major plus for us.

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