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Rear wheel negative camber


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NaymzJaymz
User

May 31, 2020, 10:34 AM

Post #1 of 11 (1007 views)
Rear wheel negative camber Sign In

1995 Buick LeSabre
138,000 miles
V6 engine.

Once again it is time ask about a problem with my work car. I recently noticed a obvious negative camber problem on the passenger side rear wheel of this vehicle. In other words, the top of the wheel is tilted inward to the point that it is visible with the naked eye. I'm beginning to show a slight and predictable tire wear, which will soon be a ruined tire. Since it's the rear wheel, the car drives fine and there is no vibration or steering problem. What I need to know is where is the adjustment point(if any) on this vehicle? My last post on this forum was about the brake cylinder on this same wheel, which I successfully change myself. Is it possible I messed something up? That was in September, and the car has only been driven 3k since then. I rotated the tires a couple of months ago, though, and didn't notice anything then. Any help for me on this. I know it will take a wheel alignment to make it completely right, but I thought maybe I could at least get it to where it is in visual alignment and improve the situation somewhat. As always I'm grateful for help I receive on this forum and will follow your instructions like I always do.


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

May 31, 2020, 11:28 AM

Post #2 of 11 (1003 views)
Re: Rear wheel negative camber Sign In

? Testing my memory of exact rear suspension on 1995 exactly also had OBDII before all others!
Camber for rear on this? If an axle more like a trailer only so much or at this late time for the car a whole good used one MAY be in order? Why, some can be hit or hoisted wrong enough to bend that such that it's really not fixable but could be.


That would ove it to auto body FRAME work now but need to know right where you're at by the specs it shows with an attempted alignment get the printout see what a pro alignment shop says they would have it in their hands looking beats all plain web is going to do.
Vehicle's are out alignment frequents that you can't see so this is severe.


Some used shims, some not and I plain forget if some had full alignment adjustments or not. Sorry, web went slow on me where I am not hunting for a one of a kind maybe for this car. Why? My late Dad owned exactly that NEW!
So get the alignment most would redo N/C or charge to bend or shims whatever can put a printout in the GREEN areas of the printout or so close deemed OK to keep on with it.


Good luck - nothing wrong if a good car now overall it's serviceable for your info I think all had the 3.8 V6 no choices?


T



Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Hammer Time profile image

May 31, 2020, 11:58 AM

Post #3 of 11 (999 views)
Re: Rear wheel negative camber Sign In

The Camber is adjusted through the two bolts that attach the strut to the knuckle.

If you removed/loosened those bolts when you did the wheel cylinder, then you were the cause. If not, then you could have a bent knuckle but that would require impact to the side of the wheel to cause that.



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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



NaymzJaymz
User

May 31, 2020, 2:54 PM

Post #4 of 11 (980 views)
Re: Rear wheel negative camber Sign In

Yes sir, I believe I am the culprit. I had to get something on those stripped out star heads that hold the wheel cylinder in. Leave it to me to mess it up. Without wanting to take too much more of your or Toms time, could you elaborate on how to make the actual adjustment? Again I realize that an alignment shop will be necessary, but I would like improve it at least to where it is at a passible point. Do you loosen both those bolts, and then the adjustment comes from movement along the strut shaft? Thanks again!


Ramntm
User

May 31, 2020, 2:56 PM

Post #5 of 11 (978 views)
Re: Rear wheel negative camber Sign In

To add a little to Hammer Time's correct answer. If nothing is found to be bent or worn out, there might be enough adjustment by loosening the bolts that connect the strut to the knuckle. If there is not enough adjustment by doing that, There is a camber adjustment kit, which actually consists of a smaller diameter bolt, washers and a nut, which replaces one of the factory bolts. The smaller diameter bolt allows the knuckle to move further than the factory bolt allows. What we did at the shops (where I did alignments) was what we called a "Strut Grind," where we removed the factory bolt and used a rotary file and a die grinder to elongate one of the holes in the strut, thus allowing a camber adjustment. This re-uses the large diameter factory.


Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Hammer Time profile image

May 31, 2020, 2:58 PM

Post #6 of 11 (976 views)
Re: Rear wheel negative camber Sign In

I believe it is the lower bolt that is slotted. You need to loosen that one a lot and loosen the other one enough to pivot. With the wheel hanging free and the jack under the body and not the control arm, pull out on the top of the tire and hold it there while someone tightens it back up.



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



Ramntm
User

May 31, 2020, 2:59 PM

Post #7 of 11 (974 views)
Re: Rear wheel negative camber Sign In

When you get an alignment performed, the guy doing the alignment should make the adjustment at no extra charge. It's included in the price of the alignment. Save yourself the extra work, and let the alignment guy do it. You can try to get it closer, but if you don't get it in specs he will have to adjust it anyway.


(This post was edited by Ramntm on May 31, 2020, 3:05 PM)


Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Hammer Time profile image

May 31, 2020, 3:03 PM

Post #8 of 11 (962 views)
Re: Rear wheel negative camber Sign In

I agree with trying to get it closer now before going in for alignment.

The Camber difference is not the real problem. When the Camber changes even slightly, it changes the toe dramatically and that is where the bad tire wear comes from, not the Camber. The toe is scrubbing wear and the Camber is just weight wear.



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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May 31, 2020, 6:41 PM

Post #9 of 11 (896 views)
Re: Rear wheel negative camber Sign In

Just this note not the whole issue: Quote you "> Do you loosen both those bolts, and then the adjustment comes from movement along the strut shaft?<"


I recall 1st I saw those nothing worked? I think I took whole backing plate off and then easy but replaced those for something else to same spec you could do without the fuss again, Tom


NaymzJaymz
User

Jun 7, 2020, 4:20 PM

Post #10 of 11 (359 views)
Re: Rear wheel negative camber Sign In

Okay guys, sorry I haven't been able to make any more comments. Too many 16 hour work days. I loosened the two bolts and did a rudimentary visual alignment. I was thrilled that I seemed to have found the adjustment point. Well, after driving to work I realized it had moved back to being way out of adjustment. Today I jacked it up, and the wheel moves, even with the bolts tightened all the way. The amount of movement is very slight, but that's all it needs to be to be off. I don't want to keep taking up your time, but any ideas. Another mistake by me, something worn out?


Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Hammer Time profile image

Jun 7, 2020, 5:06 PM

Post #11 of 11 (355 views)
Re: Rear wheel negative camber Sign In

Yep, sounds like something may be worn out, assuming you got those bolts tight enough.

Could be wheel bearing, ball joint or control arm bushings.



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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.







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