Main IndexAuto Repair Home Search Posts SEARCH
POSTS
Who's Online WHO'S
ONLINE
Log in LOG
IN









Search Auto Parts

94 sierra wheel bearings


  Email This Post



dr.donut
User

Nov 1, 2015, 7:01 AM

Post #1 of 12 (616 views)
94 sierra wheel bearings Sign In

I have a 94 gmc sierra 1500 with a 5.0 and I'm looking for a procedure for installing the front wheel bearings in the rotor, tapered rollers. How tight? On a ford van I followed what a manual said and they came loose. Looking for another opinion thanks.


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Nov 1, 2015, 8:48 AM

Post #2 of 12 (605 views)
Re: 94 sierra wheel bearings Sign In

? Do you mean inner and outer greasable bearings on this? Must be. If age old common should be the same basic idea with lock nut and cotter pin.


#1 . Set new races in with proper tool/method into rotors or hubs till they bottom - a feeling they are there.
#2. Both inner outer same deal then pack up bearing with proper grease. OK, IMO to leave a small glob inside hubs. New seal for inside too.


#3. Place on spindle and tight up by hand while spinning hub/rotor. Then your call put wheel on and you can/should overtighten by hand w like channel lock pliers past what you want to seat races if not really in the rock bottom. Right away back off noting free-play of wheel now meaning loosen to the next hole cotter pin will go thru erring to the looser choice, snip off extra long one and bend over shorter one over spindle not to touch dust cap but should find one with no free-play but at that spot. Install dust cap and drive vehicle with full weight on wheels now around the block for extra measure and just check wheel for free-play again. Why - sometimes a race isn't really at the bottom it should find it and show as slight free-play. Most if so with wheel on can advance one hole (this doesn't happen much if right first time) and new cotter pin again snipped.


There are exacting torque specs for this I may stand alone but a bit of know how they are done and good just that way. Wheel should be able to spin and coast if not bearing too tight (will fail) or brakes dragging.


This is still done on trailers, rear wheels of FWDs of some and assorted wheeled things all over the place and not much different.


Ford did use a key and doubt GM did that was a pest so if not as described let us know.


Age old proven design not obsolete but room to mess it up,


T



dr.donut
User

Nov 29, 2015, 8:45 PM

Post #3 of 12 (543 views)
Re: 94 sierra wheel bearings Sign In

The caste nut bottomed out on the spindle, it ran out of thread without binding the rotor at all, backed it off to the next available pin slot and capped it,all that I took off went back on and after 50+ miles it's all good. thanks.


Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Hammer Time profile image

Nov 30, 2015, 3:15 AM

Post #4 of 12 (537 views)
Re: 94 sierra wheel bearings Sign In

No way



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Nov 30, 2015, 3:33 AM

Post #5 of 12 (533 views)
Re: 94 sierra wheel bearings Sign In

! Something is all wrong! Stop now and find out why. Wrong parts but should have matched up. If old/worn was so ruined that it damaged just bearing AND race (some leave races in not knowing how to get them out and could be destroyed or missing?
If it was that bad you would need another spindle.
BTW there's a washer between castle nut and where it touches inner race of outer bearings. Usually with a notch so goes only one spot and if missing this won't work,


T



Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Discretesignals profile image

Nov 30, 2015, 5:27 AM

Post #6 of 12 (522 views)
Re: 94 sierra wheel bearings Sign In

Sumtin aint right Crazy





Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.


dr.donut
User

Apr 14, 2016, 9:53 AM

Post #7 of 12 (362 views)
Re: 94 sierra wheel bearings Sign In

After a few hundred of miles I put my snow tires on and didn't have any problems or play in the bearings up top that point.I found a washer that would fit over the keyed washer that capped the greaseable bearings, you guys had your doubts and so did I. Today I took off the snows and tried the washer I had bought it just fit into the well of the rotor and hub cap so I took it off figuring it would cause problems rotating the entire time. It also left the castle nut shy of the cotter pin hole but I saw that there are two holes in the spindle that allowed me to snug the nut up a little more and catch the other hole. After this much time without a problem I have to think it is what it is, that it was designed this way. There is a washer the next size down that I could get but it appears to be O K. There's always the possibility it was altered , some how ,but I don't think so,. FYI


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Apr 14, 2016, 10:40 AM

Post #8 of 12 (356 views)
Re: 94 sierra wheel bearings Sign In

See hair stand up!
OK - you went thru Winter with this with no problems but this isn't rocket science or designed 100s of different ways just different sizes for assorted applications + the way the castle nut and cotter pin will find the right spot on those that use a cotter pin (Euro stuff can be otherwise forget that.)
A part or bearing you replaced, maybe races were NOT correct and still aren't. It just didn't fail??
Now it seems you taken them and changed the cotter pin to one spot tighter on now has to be fully set races if they weren't just from use.


Back up with this: This isn't right and can only chalk this up to some good luck as the primal design predates metal!
Is it just this wheel or did both do the same on you?
You know, for just lifting off the caliper these rotors and bearing should fit each side the same as inner bearing race is static to the spindle and wouldn't care as a test only if you pursue this more and put things back where they were.


It's not right and can't see from here why? I can't imagine a wrong spindle about now but maybe wrong bearings which are marked with #s you can match up or parts places do all the time. Bearing will have #s and so will races known to match.


Again on "how tight?" Temperature can matter. You generally aren't there when they might be real warm in fact usually just the temp of the day by the time you are there so suggestions on this type used on every dang trailer and thing since the Civil War or before is to err to looser on the cotter pin hole or castle nub choice - a Ford thing was to stagger those spaces.


I wrote that up top. Tighten new real snug then back off. Now used you really don't want them too tight is much worse that a tad loose but still without any noticeable free-play. Probably a repeat on my part but now used good and correct ones you should achieve the correct tightness of the nut with about the force you could do with a screwdriver/nut driver while turning the rotor and stop there.
Think we've all said this isn't right so I'll describe some failures totally of what happens.


1. Will make wild noises and grinding sounds and feelings not long before you can lose the hub right off the spindle!
2. Now you could actually wipe the races clean and see the ever so slight coloration of where bearing touched the race which should be even without a pock, change in coloration or anything you could feel with a fingernail or perhaps credit card type plastic. Don't feel with metal things for flaws you would be hearing them when driving it.
** It isn't right and I can't suggest leaving this, this way any longer until a reason is known. For the spindle to be wrong I can't think of a way unless it came from a wildly failed used one which is near impossible.
That leaves the rotor, bearings and races aren't right in some way still not known to me.


IDK - This isn't normal to work at all and somehow did? I'd be junkyard hunting for rotors and all parts plus do brakes, resurface rotor or get new rotors - in fact do it all up new as it just isn't right and I can't trust this by your description of what didn't work or fit just right from the get go.


Sorry for the book - a wheel could fall off over this stuff and that's not acceptable - never,


T



dr.donut
User

Apr 14, 2016, 11:05 AM

Post #9 of 12 (350 views)
Re: 94 sierra wheel bearings Sign In

Going through the other pin hole only took about 1/8th of a turn and thats the limit like I said the nut bottoms out.,Both sides are the same situation. The holes for the pin kinda complement each other, you can't pass through both with the nut in one position, they alternate. I looked at the races when I had the rotors off and there was no discolor or marring, they looked good. There's a smaller washer that would work as a spacer to tighten things up, If you say it ain't right I believe you, should I get the washers and set things properly ? I too can't imagine they could make parts of this nature fit so well without some kind of adjustment .I was weary about it on the first test drives, I D K


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Apr 14, 2016, 1:02 PM

Post #10 of 12 (347 views)
Re: 94 sierra wheel bearings Sign In

OK - I think I get what you did that worked. I don't understand why the nut "bottoms out" as you said like it runs out of threads on the spindle before bearing is tight? That if so, I can see how another washer would make up the space to adjust the bearing but HOW THE HECK DID THIS HAPPEN bugs me?
The washer with the tooth may be wrong? Right now I forget if there's supposed to be a spacer washer on any and now think some did.
Castle nuts should hover over hex nut and line up for a hole thru spindle for the cotter pin. If not the space between inner races over spindle is too long because of wrong parts somehow? The inside bearing's inner races sets tight against machine work of the spindle if worn you would have known of a horrible problem if it wore that so it can't be.
Inner seal is just a seal and doesn't change it but if removed to be re-used do so with proper tools or go new again as it does matter to keep water out.
It's working and said if this was horribly wrong it really shouldn't roll down the road out of sight before wild problems so it's close but we (either of us) are missing the reason. I can only guess that just maybe (look up part #s) the bearings for a full size RWD GM car which is 1/2 ton rated may use a different bearing which is just the tiniest bit shorter on the inner race? That or both rotors somehow cut wrong from new by now aftermarket replacements?


Maybe try this: Take a pair of those bearings to a parts outlet that will let you measure the thickness of them just flat with ruler type something as new ones should be in plastic but show without harming new ones to put back unopened if parts place willing.
Other is the dang toothed washer too thin or a missing spacer I'm forgetting about washer is missing. In that case and if so a dealer would show the blowup diagram of it all in order or just go to a junkyard and take the washers off a wreck yourself of the same basic year/model must be 1/2 ton though. Here all wheels are off junk stock but you should only need remove a dust cap, cotter pin, castle nut then washer(s) and outer bearing should probably just fall out with the rotor still on the junk vehicle.
Doing such even to a wreck you should ask and say what you intend to do and find. New I'm sure is available as this is just too dang popular for ages on end.


Other - By now I hope you have the tool that removes dust caps and inner seals without damage that look like ice tongs sort of? Handy and saves wrecking things if you are using a hammer and screwdriver which I see all the time.


Last: Not sure but these parts may fit brand new assorted trailer hubs sold in blister packs with all the junk, cotter pin and all unfortunately usually the cheapest of cheap Chinese junk and not meaning to pick on a country just they corner the market on that crap aftermarket even if they make higher quality new stuff as well,


T



dr.donut
User

Apr 14, 2016, 2:03 PM

Post #11 of 12 (340 views)
Re: 94 sierra wheel bearings Sign In

I'm thinking the bearings and /or races or new rotors were replaced with the wrong part that is close enough but somehow lacking in a certain dimension,they looked pretty good. they may even have come off another G M truck for all I know. [dubious repairs] I've had this truck 4 years , time will tell ,when they are replaced we'll know.


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Apr 14, 2016, 2:57 PM

Post #12 of 12 (339 views)
Re: 94 sierra wheel bearings Sign In

You are right - when new is all a must you'll know. It just worries me with anything that could make a wheel fall off that hasn't or why and doubt we'll know for sure.
Just to refresh if a wheel bearing is in fact self destructing and only drove a couple on the last bit not a mile they give wild bad sounds and feelings not to be ignored at all. It isn't doing that so if all behaves and sound right can't beat this up any more.


Be safe,


T







  Email This Post
 
 


Feed Button




Search for (options) Privacy Sitemap

shopify
site analytics