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99 Buick orifice tube removal
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comnavguy
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Jul 25, 2012, 4:27 PM
Post #1 of 6
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99 Buick orifice tube removal
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Is there a secret to removing an orifice tube - without a removal tool? I had a tool and it ran off with my ex-wife or it's hiding behind something, and I want to do this job tonight when it's cool.
Last time I removed one from a GM car I ended up picking it out in pieces using easy-outs and small drills and having to be EXTRA careful not to score the inside of the hose.
Would it help if I took a soldering iron and heated the hose to break the orifice tube loose?
Any tricks???
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jul 25, 2012, 4:31 PM
Post #2 of 6
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Re: 99 Buick orifice tube removal
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Hose? I hope you mean aluminum line.
I usually just grab them with needle nose pliers unless they are stuck and if they are, it's usually too damaged at the point to use the tool anyway. A little heat on the line would probably help. Some silicone spray would help too. just make sure you get it all flushed back out of the pipe.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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comnavguy
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Jul 28, 2012, 3:32 PM
Post #3 of 6
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Re: 99 Buick orifice tube removal
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I found the removal tool BEFORE I finished the job. Heat, silicone spray and gental twisting and tugging with the tool got it out. It was pretty clogged. Now with the new tube and dryer, it's fighting our 100 degree heat very well.
How long do you recommend leaving the vacuum pump on before re-charging? AND do you have any tricks for making sure all the moisture is out of the system?
Thanks for everything.
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jul 28, 2012, 3:38 PM
Post #4 of 6
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Re: 99 Buick orifice tube removal
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That question varies dramatically depending on how much moisture is in the system. You're usually pretty safe with an hour provided the pump is capable of pulling a full vacuum. They say the only true way to know is to use a very high tech vacuum gauge that can read vacuum out 3 decimal points beyond the whole number. It's a confusing thing that requires a very long explanation to even understand but the dryer the system gets, the deeper the vacuum it pulls but you're reading in very tiny increments.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jul 28, 2012, 8:14 PM
Post #5 of 6
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Re: 99 Buick orifice tube removal
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Just a comment on moisture out/vacuum: Water (as vapor) is in air. It rains and nobody sprayed it up there The magic is that water boils off to vapor that the vacuum will remove and boils at different temps based on pressure. We basically are living in 14.7 PSI which we think of as zero but not. So now if that # is lowered the water boils incrementally at lower and lower temps. That boiling point gets lower by the most minute fraction of measured vacuum.
A warm engine compartment should help expedite that. Whole perfect vacuum can be lost just removing hoses or the switch to charging from the vacuum to adding refrigerant. The desiccant is there to cover minute flaws but limited.
Off on my own opinion: I hear of folks leaving pumps on for ages after the max vacuum is achieved?? How much more from nothing are you going to get I ask? Once full vacuum then if it holds is evidence that nothing more is boiling off.
In short, the less moisture or air the better the results,
T
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Jul 28, 2012, 8:57 PM
Post #6 of 6
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Re: 99 Buick orifice tube removal
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OK, here's the technical data
Complete moisture evaporation is achieved at between 300 and 500 microns
Anything below 200 microns will begin to evaporate the PAG oil
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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