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2001 Dodge Caravan heating issues


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kcdragon76
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Nov 17, 2008, 9:18 AM

Post #1 of 11 (14799 views)
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My 2001 dodge caravan blows out heat on the drivers side of the vehicle, but blows out cold air on the passanger side. Is this a disconnected hose issue, and if so how do i access it to hook it back up, or what else could cause this issue ?


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Nov 17, 2008, 9:43 AM

Post #2 of 11 (14777 views)
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If this DOESN'T have dual controls then I would suspect (still not sure?) a problem like a hose (duct) not connected up properly. Has there been any work on dash - specifically underside?

T
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Long retired now


kcdragon76
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Nov 17, 2008, 10:30 AM

Post #3 of 11 (14771 views)
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It does have dual controls for the front and back but not for the drivers side and passanger side. The drivers side is fine and the back works fine, and no there has been no work to the dash.


Tom Greenleaf
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Nov 17, 2008, 10:47 AM

Post #4 of 11 (14769 views)
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I'm not so sure - hope the guys are watching this too with ideas.

Ok: Can it blow even temp for defrost or mix of defrost and floor? Can it be even temp with any other ducts requested?

? - Does this van have a cabin air filter? If so check that out - they can be the cause of strange behavior.

More: Do what you can to verify that cooling system is in fact full - not just what a recovery tank says but truly full in the radiator which probably doesn't have an access cap or the pressure cap there. Just maybe if it's low even a bit the core is only part full passing part full hot coolant and it's selective. I've never heard of that with heat but it sure does do that with A/C - different bird though.

There's a zillion vehicles out there. I've never seen one that has louvers for floor heat outlets so far and doubt this does that - still would only change volume not temp though.

Hit back with the first questions and I'll keep thinking on what next........

T
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Long retired now


kcdragon76
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Nov 17, 2008, 11:46 AM

Post #5 of 11 (14765 views)
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It does not evenly defrost both sides of the window, but the defrost does work with the other settings and works fine on the drivers side just will not blow hot air out vents on front passanger side and does not defrost on passanger side.


Tom Greenleaf
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Nov 17, 2008, 12:04 PM

Post #6 of 11 (14759 views)
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Still need to know coolant is full as said above.

Basics: The heater core is a small rectangular radiator in the housing of the distribution box of course. That should basically be one close temp of coolant going thru it. If it had a hot and cold side because is was just part full of liquid coolant, or partially blocked from debris (animal nest??) it might favor one side over the other. It routinely happens with cooling which is somewhat the same in reverse when partially cold on that item when low on refrigerant they can be much cooler on one side even though it goes first into a central area for distribution.

The coolant level must be known full and free of air and if debris from any source is suspected needs be cleaned out - not a fun job! Best I could find is blower motor is behind glovebox for access to remove it and sometimes debris if thought to be the cause can be removed thru that.

Otherwise I need some other ideas??

T
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Long retired now


Double J
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Nov 17, 2008, 12:14 PM

Post #7 of 11 (14760 views)
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Tom- kc

Found this bulletin ...See if it applies.....

NUMBER: 24-006-01
GROUP: Heating & A/C
DATE: May 4, 2001
SUBJECT:
No Heat on Front Right Side

OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves replacing the blend air door shaft with a new part.

MODELS:2001 (RS) Caravan/Town & Country/Voyager 2001 (RG) Chrysler Voyager (International Markets)

NOTE : THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO LEFT HAND DRIVE (LHD) VEHICLES WITH ZONE CONTROL OR AUTOMATIC TEMPERATURE CONTROL (ATC) HVAC SYSTEMS.

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
The vehicle operator may complain of no heat in any mode, from the front right side of the vehicle.

DIAGNOSIS:
If the above condition is verified, perform the Repair Procedure.


1. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the silencer pad from beneath the driver side end of the instrument panel.
3. Remove the driver's side knee bolster.

4. Remove the three screws that secure the heater core shield to the left end of the HVAC distribution housing (Fig. 1).
5. Pull the heater core shield rearward far enough to disengage the two location tabs that position the front of the shield to the receptacles in the two lower finger formations of the heater/air conditioner housing near the dash.
6.
Remove the heater core shield from the distribution housing.

7. Remove the two screws that secure the passenger blend door actuator to the distribution housing (Fig. 2).
NOTE : MARK LOCATION OF PLASTIC EXTERNAL STOP POSITION ON THE BLEND AIR DOOR SHAFT FOR REINSTALLATION.

8. Remove the metal blend air door shaft and plastic external stop attached to the shaft.
9. Install the new blend door shaft through the blend air door and into the housing.
10. Reinsert the plastic external stop to the blend air door shaft in the same position as it was removed. Rotate the blend air door shaft by hand to ensure the plastic door stop stops rotation of the shaft between the stop bumpers in the housing.
11. Position the blend air door actuator onto the distribution housing. It necessary, rotate the actuator slightly to align the splines on the actuator output shaft with those in the blend air door linkage.
12. Install and tighten the two screws that secure the blend door actuator to the distribution housing . Tighten screws to 2 Nm (17 in. lbs.).
13. Position the heater core shield onto the distribution housing. Be certain that the two location tabs on the front of the shield are engaged in the receptacles in the two lower finger formations of the evaporator housing near the dash panel.
14. Install and tighten the three heater core shield screws and tighten to 2 Nm (17 in. lbs.).
15. Install knee bolster.
16. Install silencer pad.
17. Reconnect battery negative cable.
18. Perform the heater-NC control calibration procedure:
a. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
b. Simultaneously depress and hold the Power and Recirculation buttons on the heater-A/C control for at least five seconds. The manual heater-A/C control Delay Light Emitting Diode (LED) and Recirculation LED, or the Automatic Temperature Control (ATC) heater-A/C control Delay and Recirculation graphics will begin to flash when the calibration procedure has begun.
c. The calibration procedure should take less than three minutes to complete for the manual system, and less than twenty seconds for the ATC system. When the LED's or graphics stop flashing, the calibration procedure is complete.
d. If the LED's or graphics continue to flash beyond the time stated above, it indicates that the heater-A/C control system has detected a failure and a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) has been set. Use the DRBIII(R) scan tool and the appropriate diagnostic information for further diagnosis.


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Nov 17, 2008, 3:27 PM

Post #8 of 11 (14756 views)
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Thanks JIM N! I think that about covers a funky problem like that.




That's worth at least three of these! Cash them in at the company store!

T
_________________________________________
Long retired now


jj
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Apr 20, 2009, 9:57 PM

Post #9 of 11 (14283 views)
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there was a tsb about this i'm not with dodge any more so i dont remember what it said but i think it was a progam problem on the bcm


Jeff Norfolk
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Apr 21, 2009, 8:02 PM

Post #10 of 11 (14280 views)
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TSB posted two posts up.
Jeff


ONYUR6
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Oct 14, 2009, 4:31 PM

Post #11 of 11 (13925 views)
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Similar problems myself. I have a 2001 Dodge Grand caravan, 3.8L. I have no heat from the front or rear of the vehicle. It has manual controls/dual zone controls front and rear. My temperature guage is reading normal on the dash and the radiator is full. The blower changes speed with both the front and rear controls. When I change to defrost I don't feel any air from the top of the dash or the small vents on the sides but the blower is making all kinds of noise in the dash like it's blowing. I tried the recalibration twice and I believe it didn't pass. The recirulating air button just continued to flash 3-5 minutes after the test. Per the poster above, that is suppose to generate a code that can be read with a scanner. I drove to Autozone and there were no codes in my system. It passed both times that he checked. I just don't get any hot air. I don't hear my the doors operating and have read about blender doors failing. I wanted to exhaust all other possibilities before attempting to access those actuators under the dash.

Does the blower motor resistor or blower/heater switch control the blender actuators at all?

What could keep both the front and rear actuators from working? I think it is unlikely they both broke at the same time.

Even though my guage on the dash registers normal temp could the thermostat be bad?

One thing I have noticed is the vehicle makes a loud humming noise when it's first started in cold weather but stops within minutes of warming up. It sounds like it could be in the water pump area. Has anyone heard of this and could I have a water pump issue affecting my heater?

Thank you in advance for any advice!




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