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2000 S10 Blazer - no heat


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wally107
New User

Nov 19, 2008, 8:15 AM

Post #1 of 8 (13790 views)
2000 S10 Blazer - no heat Sign In

At my wits end - coming to the experts.
2000 S10 Blazer 4.3L V6 LT (loaded) 130K miles
Electronic Climate Control

Began having "no heat" probs last fall. So far: flushed (numerous times), 2 new thermostats, new water pump (leaky weep hole).

The only thing that seems to work is flushing the heater core. However... it only blows heat for approx 30 mins, then slowly cools off, finally blowing cold. When flushing the core, we see NO chunks, gook, etc. Appears to flow clear. I honestly don't think it's a heater core problem.

Is it possible that disconnecting the heater core hoses "temporarily" opens the accuator door, then it slowly closes?

I realize I'm grasping at straws, but running out of ideas. HELP!!

P.S. Been looking at all of the related posts, and just wanted to add: both heater core hoses are toasty-warm both prior to and after the flush, and as I mentioned, I've never seen anything but AF or clear water come out - hence I'm leaning away from a heater core issue. Also, the temp has always been nominal (200-210) and AF level is good. We've been chasing this for over a year, so I'm starting to lean towards a control/valve problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Hope y'all don't mind - in despiration I also posted this on ACSOURCE. Thanx!


(This post was edited by wally107 on Nov 19, 2008, 10:50 AM)


Loren Champlain Sr
Veteran / Moderator
Loren Champlain Sr profile image

Nov 19, 2008, 4:32 PM

Post #2 of 8 (13761 views)
Re: 2000 S10 Blazer - no heat Sign In

Hopefully someone more knowledgeable (Like Tom) will jump in, here, but it sounds like a blend door problem. The heater hoses, in and out, should be of equal temp at all times. The blend doors open and close to allow heat and to direct it's flow. Could be a lazy blend door actuator?
Loren
SW Washington


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Nov 19, 2008, 5:36 PM

Post #3 of 8 (13758 views)
Re: 2000 S10 Blazer - no heat Sign In

wally107 - I'm glad you took it to ACSOURCE - the link is in my sign off here and I saw you there and still don't know what for sure as if we ever can.

I think the blend door is electrically actuated and if it can it's "home" position would be to default to cold rather than warm/hot air.

I'm totally confused why it can start off ok and slowly fade like you mentioned. There's a bunch of A/C geeks at ACSOURCE (Gosh - they'll kill me for saying that!) - the strange stuff shows up there.

Wouldn't you figure that if this can start off working it would at least stay there? That's what screwed me up.

I think you said this was ATC (forget this if not) and sometimes junk can block the sensor(s) so it thinks it's done cooking you and backs off. Clear junk, stickers, decals added or whatevers off dash if that's the case??

T



wally107
New User

Nov 20, 2008, 5:26 AM

Post #4 of 8 (13750 views)
Re: 2000 S10 Blazer - no heat Sign In

Tom & Land - thanx for your quick replys. Can't tell you how comforting it is to know the pros are as stumped as I am.

Probably insignificant, but last night I tried hitting the RECIRC button - and it warmed up considerably. I suppose this only makes sense, since it's then re-heating the same air (and blocking out the outside air). Again, probably not significant, but thought I'd mention it.

Like you guys, I've never heard of a blend door/actuator acting like this - but it seems like the logical next thing to check. I think the fact that it heats up right after I flush the heater core is significant - I'm just not sure how.

Anyway - next question: Is the glove box the best access to the blend door? From everything I've read here and at ACSOURCE it seems so. Any advice?

Thanx again for all your help!


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Nov 20, 2008, 7:47 AM

Post #5 of 8 (13744 views)
Re: 2000 S10 Blazer - no heat Sign In

http://www.autozone.com/...eId=0900c152800a5d7c

Wally - that link was the closest I could get as I said at ACSOURCE the info led to the full size vehicles. If you get into that site - see if you can steer it to your vehicle as info is released for public view in there. If all fails I'd get the version of AllData for your exact vehicle which costs about $25 bucks but would be a monster help about now. I don't have the full programs. Some libraries do! Check locally if you can.





Ok: There's a diagram of the actuator and a heater control (water) valve from that link but it keeps taking me to full size vehicles?? If you have a inline heater control valve that looks like that on heater inlet hose then I'd try applying vacuum with hand pump to that sucker just to see what it does!

You can see the rods with their funky fangled springs and clips that connect them in top diagram. They break rather easily and can partially work! Remember these and most have a "home" base setting when everything is off to default to in failures.

Seems like this is what's happening and why is the question/problem??

T



wally107
New User

Nov 20, 2008, 9:03 AM

Post #6 of 8 (13739 views)
Re: 2000 S10 Blazer - no heat Sign In

Tom - now we're gettin' somewhere (uhh, I think...)

I've finagled with the heater hoses coming out of the firewall, and I don't recall seeing that type of control valve - but then again, I haven't been looking for it. I'll check again.

I've dabbled with Alldata in the past - I'll dabble some more.

Somewhere either here or on ACSOURCE, someone mentioned removing the "RDO fuse", reinstalling it, then turning the ignition ON to reset the actuator. Have you ever heard of that? It sounds similar (sort of) to what the Autozone guidance refers to.

Ref the acuator rods/springs: do you know if I can access these thru the glove box?

Again - can't thank you enough. Feels like my wheels are no longer spinning - starting to get some traction!


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Nov 20, 2008, 10:12 AM

Post #7 of 8 (13736 views)
Re: 2000 S10 Blazer - no heat Sign In


In Reply To

Ref the acuator rods/springs: do you know if I can access these thru the glove box?


My one "dashboard" diving expedition 'ala' JAQUES COUSTEAU Style was last early Spring on a Suburban where the first blush of warm weather revealed no airflow could be directed thru panel vents. Happens that in the course of way2much flucking around with power door locks and the reciever for remote which is way up over gas pedal resulted in breaking the plastic retainers which hold the springs for the four rods - hard to see in the diagram above - PM me with your email and I can send some excellent pics directly of what those are all about.

When FOUR rods are together - sort of buffered by the springs such that motion of doors don't "slam" they both work in conjunction with each other with one turning of the actuator. What happens (apparently) is when you change temps from needing more heat to more cool and which ducts will be used it also blends out the outside air for more or all recirculated air. Know that A/C is helpless against a heater core's BTU ability. Just think - you ask for heat when it's -25F (will happen once a year for me in mountains in New Hampshire) and heat still blasts to keep vehicle cabins comfy - a near 100 degree swap is no big deal. A whole friggin' system to cool you worth $1000s can only drop the interior temp about 30 degrees F using about 18 horse power!!!! It's just not fairMad

The climate controlled vehicles throw more into the mix. They are sensing the requested temp vs what they think you have already and will adjust on their own. That s*cks IMO as I'd just rather open a window or lower the fan myself or ever redirect the vent but the dang things lower the temp output - s*cks when you want ice off rear side windows. Temp sensing for climate control sometimes picks up air lower under dash and thru power or convection runs up thru top - sometimes thru dash pad vent unseen which is why putting papers or things on those screws up the show - car/vehicle thinks you are roasting already when you are still not warm. Those need to be clear.

I find and as I just said above that the problems can and IMO happen when something is messed with or broken in the course of doing something else. Has any work been done - stereo - anything that involved digging into dash for some repair? I'd retrace the steps taken if so and bet you find something!

Check for that heater control valve. It would be in-line on usually the smaller heater hose of the two which is inlet hose. There could be another device in line that isn't to change water flow but I think GMs use water flow more often than not as a means to control temp for heater core.

Note: You touched on something when you said changing request for "recirc" vs regular or "fresh" air made a difference. It clearly does with A/C but like I said a heater can overwhelm outdoor temps if core is ok and that seems pretty certain. It's a bit silly but in "defrost" mode vehicles will use cooled air from A/C's evaporator which is drier than ambient air in a few moments to assist in "defogging" a windshield hence heating precooled air - now that's asking a bit much of a system IMO! It's silly as A/C must shut down when much colder than like 40F temps or it would lock up compressor.

You also mentioned resetting something and best I can suggest with something intermittent like this is that disconnecting neg battery - turn on headlights or force it to drain any residual power stored in some fool thing somewhere and reconnect later should start over with things reset - just a maybe for try for that.

Keep at it. Post any observations you might find and we'll get this. The guys at ACSOURCE should have the hands on know how for testing and what's likely as they are all actively in biz - the regulars with more help from a GM engineer and and Physics professor on board there too. It's been slow for A/C repair - both the season and the economy as for many A/C can be done without. Heating is totally on topic though for A/C repair as it's all part of the same and one can cause the problem with the other.

Look for those actuator when you can. You should see them move if you can get a view of them when changing temp or vent requests to know that they at least move,

T



wally107
New User

Nov 20, 2008, 12:41 PM

Post #8 of 8 (13733 views)
Re: 2000 S10 Blazer - no heat Sign In

Tom - "dashboard diving" - LOL!! You're a braver man than I. The only part of me I want to put under the dash is my feets! Hence, I can say I've made no forays into, under, nor around the dash (so far). So if one of the rods/doors is screwed up...I'm innocent.

I have been sure to keep the mode & fan knobs out of the AUTO position - so the ATC function really doesn't figure into this (I don't think).

If I understand this, the temp knob (in the middle) only controls the amount of coolant allowed to flow through the heater core. Low temp=no fluid thru core, High temp=lots of fluid thru core. All of which is "metered" by the control valve (which may be located somewhere along the smaller hose). Do I have that right?

I figured the hot air should overwhelm the fresh/outside air, regardless of temp - but it did help a little, so I thought I'd mention it.

I changed the battery some time ago - I don't recall if was the same time that this "no heat" began. Maybe I'll try to disconnect it - just for giggles.

Thanx again... Wally






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