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GC
User
Jan 22, 2014, 10:52 AM
Post #26 of 42
(1829 views)
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Re: 1999 Chrysler 300m
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Your gonna have to dig into the column and get to the ignition switch that is attached to the end of the lock cylinder. This requires disabling the airbag system. I wouldnt recommend trying this yourself, unless you are familiar with these systems. You can easily junk your car if you do something wrong. You can try checking the voltage to fuse #23 and circuit breaker #1 in the junction box when this is happening and for good measure, check it again when its functioning properly. It may help point in the right direction, but wont let you condemn the ignition switch, as it would need to be tested right at the switch.
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Willing to help, willing to learn... Rob
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dmelvin
User
Jan 22, 2014, 12:36 PM
Post #27 of 42
(1824 views)
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Re: 1999 Chrysler 300m
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Wouldn't disabling the air bag system just require detaching the negative battery cable from the post? I did the quick test to diagnose if it was the ignition switch by inserting my key into the 2 position, putting the car in neutral, turning the key to the start position, then letting it snap back to the 2 position. The result was the trac on and trac off indicator as well as the abs indicator beeping and flashing then turning off. Is this a partial confirmation? Again appreciate the help, I really want to know more about my car and be self reliant when it comes to these things.
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dmelvin
User
Jan 22, 2014, 1:03 PM
Post #28 of 42
(1823 views)
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Re: 1999 Chrysler 300m
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So I gave autozone a call and discussed it for a little bit and if it were to be the ignition switch, typically, the power windows and a/c/heater wouldn't start working consistently after 15 minutes. She suggested checking starting with the relays? What do you think about her idea?
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jan 22, 2014, 1:29 PM
Post #29 of 42
(1821 views)
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Re: 1999 Chrysler 300m
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You need to learn one thing right now.
The people at Autozone are part time part counter sales people with no technical training.
The people on this site are mostly ASE certified technicians, mostly master techs.
If you continue to ignore the people here and listen to the counter monkeys at Autozone, you are going to end up totally buried in a mess and probably do some damage to your car.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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dmelvin
User
Jan 22, 2014, 1:35 PM
Post #30 of 42
(1818 views)
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Re: 1999 Chrysler 300m
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Hammer Time, other people are giving me good insight and all you are providing is criticism. I'm open to all sources of information and finding out the validity of that information is something I'm going to have to discern. You can either provide me information like the other people who have posted on this forum have kindly offered or you can take your negative comments else where. I reiterate, I am open to information from any source, and anyone who has provided me with viable information on here I sincerely thank and take into careful consideration. So as far as "continuing to ignore the people here" goes, I'm not. I'm being resourceful. So please, go somewhere else if you aren't going to help me. Thank you.
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jan 22, 2014, 1:40 PM
Post #31 of 42
(1817 views)
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Re: 1999 Chrysler 300m
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Tread carefully mister or you and all your help will be gone. Consider yourself lucky that one tech is still willing to deal with this nonsense.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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dmelvin
User
Jan 22, 2014, 1:50 PM
Post #32 of 42
(1815 views)
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Re: 1999 Chrysler 300m
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Hammer Time, I pretty confident, that unlike you, people on here are willing to help me rather than criticize me and think I'm ignorant. You have one thing right, I don't know a lot about cars. But the thing you have wrong is that I'm not going to research and question advice given. Asking for explanation provides insight, which is my primary goal here. I don't want to take my car to a mechanic, which I easily could, because I want to know how to fix it on my own. I'm not going to tread carefully because I do sincerely and honestly appreciate advice, not criticism or idle threats. So please, take your issues with me elsewhere so I can continue working on this problem in an insightful and effective matter. As for luck, I considered myself lucky to have even one reply to this post and grateful for such.
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GC
User
Jan 22, 2014, 3:08 PM
Post #33 of 42
(1813 views)
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Re: 1999 Chrysler 300m
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I didnt even look at how to disable the system before, but yes its disconnecting the battery and waiting AT LEAST 2 minutes for capacitors to discharge. But the concern is still there, as anytime you are getting into the steering column, especially into the wiring, you better know your stuff.
As HT said, disregard anything from people who sell parts. They may be great parts people, but they dont care if you test and find the problem or just buy parts and throw them at the problem. In fact, they prefer that. If they had proper service info and a good amount of skill, they would be a tech. But they have neither, so are only guessing, which doesnt work well with todays vehicles.
____________________________________________________
Willing to help, willing to learn... Rob
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kev2
Veteran
Jan 22, 2014, 3:52 PM
Post #34 of 42
(1812 views)
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Re: 1999 Chrysler 300m
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I spent some time pulling up and looking at a wiring diagram, pretty much as was already posted by a colleague-
power constant from remote battery "JUMP POST*" to PDC fuse J 40amp - then to key switch that supplies power to several circuits infuse box- PW and the HVAC - your issues
here is where I think you can test easily....when a failure is present using a test light or DVOM... check fuse #s 23,17.9,8 for 12v by probing they should have 12v. 12v or not we can proceed from that finding
* might want to check connection tight corrosion free
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dmelvin
User
Jan 22, 2014, 4:10 PM
Post #35 of 42
(1806 views)
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Re: 1999 Chrysler 300m
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Okay I just had an epiphany: I was just doing some tests on the car and I got this results; when I turned the key to the 2 position all the appliances would work but as soon as I would start the car the pw/ac/heater wouldn't. I'd turn the car off pull the keys out turn it to the 2 position (have to repeat this a couple of times to work) and then all the appliances would work again. They'd immediately stop if I turned on the car as suggested by the previous result. HENCE would this suggest and alternator issue as the alternator takes over for the power distribution after the car is started?!?
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jan 22, 2014, 4:33 PM
Post #36 of 42
(1804 views)
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Re: 1999 Chrysler 300m
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No, it wouldn't suggest that at all but it would suggest a bad ignition switch............. Oh, I forgot, the engineers at Autozone said that wasn't possible.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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kev2
Veteran
Jan 22, 2014, 4:54 PM
Post #37 of 42
(1802 views)
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Re: 1999 Chrysler 300m
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Did I waste my time ......
a simple test was offered. to confirm a suspected ignition switch
PS your above logic is flawed.... circuits are same
(This post was edited by kev2 on Jan 22, 2014, 5:04 PM)
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jan 22, 2014, 4:57 PM
Post #38 of 42
(1798 views)
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Re: 1999 Chrysler 300m
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Apparently
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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GC
User
Jan 22, 2014, 5:04 PM
Post #39 of 42
(1792 views)
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Re: 1999 Chrysler 300m
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Im done
____________________________________________________
Willing to help, willing to learn... Rob
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jan 22, 2014, 5:46 PM
Post #40 of 42
(1787 views)
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Re: 1999 Chrysler 300m
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Thread getting long so may be a repeat or confusing you:
Battery/alternator: Battery is there to start the car mostly as a reserve of power. Once running alternator will put back what was taken/lost from the battery quickly such that it really is and should remain at full charge while running, even running everything electrical in the vehicle. Battery cover sudden demands by split seconds and alternator will then cover that new load and battery is all happy again.
Essentially if there's isn't a wiring or other electrical problem the car would run just fine without an alternator at all (or working alternator) as long as the reserve capacity of the battery was adequate. Time limit to that situation.
Just the time when starter is cranking the ignition switch will disable quite a few functions to allow as much power to starter as possible then when you plain let go the typical ignition self returns to plain run mode enabling anything you wish. Seems there's a dead spot with that whether released to that spot or just put there without starting it's not doing what it should or you wouldn't be here asking.
That "dead" spot for an analogy is like a physical turning dimmer when going thru the range may find a dead spot that either stays dead or may take time to make the connection.
Whatever: This would lead me to the ignition switch itself and seems that's where this thread is at.
Note on parts outlets, any really: The common reason for being there is to sell parts - no surprise. The employees may or may not be trained mechanics at all. Some are real mechanics that for whatever reason can't or don't wish to plain do it any more but stay associated with the car biz.
Ultimately the customer chooses which parts are needed NOT the parts place! Techs and shops are customers of parts places also. In short, their job is to sell parts and YOUR job is to know which ones,
Tom
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dmelvin
User
Jan 22, 2014, 6:18 PM
Post #41 of 42
(1779 views)
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Re: 1999 Chrysler 300m
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Kev2, thanks for your time looking that up for me. I'll go test the fuses asap for the 12V continuity. I'm trying to catch up with all the inflow of information so sorry for not getting back to your promptly.
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jan 22, 2014, 6:37 PM
Post #42 of 42
(1775 views)
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Re: 1999 Chrysler 300m
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Since you are still not listening to anything, this has to come to an end. You have just proven that you have a bad ignition switch which you were told of back in the beginning of this thread yet continued to waste everyone's time by listening to Autozone. This issue has been resolved and this thread has run it's course and I am closing it now.
Kev2, contact me if you need to add anything.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Jan 22, 2014, 6:38 PM)
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