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sitopons
User
Mar 30, 2008, 7:40 PM
Post #1 of 4
(1404 views)
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rust free
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Was wondering if you think grease can help prevent corrosion and rust on metal parts, because here in the north winters are evil....
thanx
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Mar 31, 2008, 12:35 AM
Post #2 of 4
(1397 views)
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I use a couple cans of spray, white lithuim grease when I get used cars on everything I can under car - brake and fuel lines, fasteners, parking brake cables, threads to shocks and things that you might need to do at some point - all over and routinely spray something like WD-40 on electrical plugs anywhere I find them.
Rust is the #1 car killer where I am West of Bean town - heavily salted roads are a killer. I've been at this for decades and the grease is better that any paint for rust protection. Back side of bumpers - anywhere you can and avoid any brake friction surfaces. I use "brush-in-cap" high temp "anti-seize" on exhaust parts that might need service down the road.
Problem rust starts where you don't see it, behind panels, framing, fenders and underside, body bushings and assorted stuff wherever found. An annual job best done with whole vehicle overhead if you can,
T
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dmac0923
Enthusiast
Mar 31, 2008, 6:13 AM
Post #3 of 4
(1396 views)
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i also recommend a light spray coating like tom said, the reasoning behind that is, if you start slopping wheel bearing grease on the undercarraige, every piece of dirt and debris is going to stick to the greas and look like crap and be hard to clean.
every time i wash the truck in the winter months, i rinse the undercarraige.
every spring time i climb under the truck with a wire brush and some rust preventative paint.
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2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee
2002 Ford Ranger
2004 Toyota Corolla
1969 Ford Mustang Mach 1
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Mar 31, 2008, 8:12 AM
Post #4 of 4
(1395 views)
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True - it makes a mess - the spray isn't so thick so it gather's less dirt. What a joy though to undo flare nuts in tricky spots without any extra effort or having to replace a section of line! Steel comes in different grades thruout automotives. Heavy thick frame metal can flake to a hole while a thin other gadget survives without any protection. High carbon steel is more expensive and is the more tolerant - not used in coachworks but you'll see it on old tools and equipment that just don't disappear like cheap steel,
T
Ps: Bridge girders/supports, re-bar for concrete etc., use the lousy stuff almost as planned obsolescence! Dangerous as we know!
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