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how to Rebuild a Chevy 2 Barrel Carb

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Sunny1989
User

Apr 29, 2009, 4:00 AM

Post #1 of 5 (6942 views)
how to Rebuild a Chevy 2 Barrel Carb Sign In
i am rebuilding a carburetor for my 307 and i need some help. first what rebuild kit should i buy they range in price from 35 to 70. what is wrong with it now is it is adjusted to idle high otherwise it dies when i stop and try to give it gas to start going again. so in park it idles at what sounds like 2500 to 3000 rpms and and when in gear it idles to what sounds like 1000 to 1500 if i let it go too long it dies.

So the question for witch kit is what do i need to fix on my carb. (each kit has a different number of things.)


Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Hammer Time profile image

Apr 29, 2009, 8:51 AM

Post #2 of 5 (6938 views)
Re: how to Rebuild a Chevy 2 Barrel Carb Sign In
Unless you have some extensive experience working on carbs, this is not anything you should attempt. This is a trade in itself to set up a carb correctly and you can make things considerable worse very easily. I might suggest buying a factory rebuilt and just exchange yours.

There really aren't any options on carb kits. You usually need the exact model number for your carb and the only options there will be in the kit is the brand name. With that car, I would stay with a Delco kit if you do rebuilt it.



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



Loren Champlain Sr
Veteran / Moderator
Loren Champlain Sr profile image

Apr 29, 2009, 4:44 PM

Post #3 of 5 (6933 views)
Re: how to Rebuild a Chevy 2 Barrel Carb Sign In
Sunny; Agree with Hammer. But, are you certain that it's the carb that's causing the problem? Could be a massive vacuum leak causing the fast idle.
Loren
SW Washington


Sunny1989
User

Apr 30, 2009, 11:27 AM

Post #4 of 5 (6927 views)
Re: how to Rebuild a Chevy 2 Barrel Carb Sign In
the fast idle is what we did to fix the dieing every time we would stop and then hit the gas to move again it would die like it was getting no fuel. it could be the accelorator pump. i have a full tank of gas and all my line are decent. fuel filter might help. i don't know. i got my father inlaw to help rebuild it if it needs it.


flgmtech1
User

Apr 30, 2009, 12:06 PM

Post #5 of 5 (6924 views)
Re: how to Rebuild a Chevy 2 Barrel Carb Sign In
This is the GENERAL method of the Pontiac 307Y Engine Rochester Quadrajet Carb Dissassemble
  1. Remove screws and then idle speed control, idle load compressor, or idle speed solenoid from float bowl to prevent damage from carburetor cleaner.
  2. Remove retaining screw, then upper choke lever from end of choke shaft. Rotate lever to remove from choke rod.
  3. Hold lower choke lever outward with small screwdriver and twist choke rod counterclockwise to remove from lever.
  4. Remove small screw in top of metering rod hanger. Lift up on metering rod hanger until secondary metering rods are completely out of air horn. Remove metering rods from hanger by rotating ends out of holes in hanger.
  5. Using drift punch, drive roll pin in until pump lever can be removed from air horn, Fig. 4. Then, remove pump lever from link.
  6. Remove front vacuum break hose noting tube locations for reassembly.





  1. Remove 11 air horn to bowl screws and lockwashers, then remove 2 countersunk screws next to venturi, Fig. 5. Remove secondary air baffle deflector (if equipped) from beneath 2 center air horn screws.
  2. Remove air horn from float bowl by lifting straight up. Leave air horn gasket on float bowl for later removal. While removing air horn, take care not to damage solenoid connector, throttle position sensor (TPS) adjustment lever, or pull over enrichment tubes (if used).
  3. Remove front vacuum break screws, then vacuum break assembly from air valve rod. Remove air valve rod from air valve lever.
  4. Remove throttle position sensor plunger by pushing up through seal in air horn.
  5. With air horn inverted, drive lean mixture screw plug out of air horn from bottom side using suitable punch. Discard plug.
  6. If necessary to replace rich mixture screw, or to readjust mixture control solenoid travel, remove rich mixture screw using tool BT-7967A or equivalent. With stop screw removed, drive plug out of air horn to gain access to stop screw (when installed). Discard plug.
  7. Using small screwdriver, remove staking holding throttle position sensor seal retainer in place. Remove and discard retainer and seal. Further disassembly of air horn is not required for cleaning purposes. Air horn assembly with idle air bleed valve in place should be cleaned only using a low volatile cleaning solvent to avoid damaging O-rings sealing bleed valve.
  8. If Computer Command Control system diagnosis indicates carburetor is causing problems with engine performance, fuel economy, or exhaust emissions, tamper resistant cover shielding idle air bleed valve can be removed as follows:
    1. Support air horn and align #35 drill bit (.110 inch) on steel rivet head holding idle bleed valve cover in place. Drill only enough to remove rivet head, then drill remaining rivet head. Using drift and small hammer, drive remainder of rivets out of idle air bleed valve tower in air horn casting.
    2. Lift out cover and remove remainder of rivets from inside tower. Discard cover.
    3. Using screwdriver, turn bleed valve counterclockwise to remove. Remove and discard O-rings from valve. Do not place air horn assembly in carburetor cleaner with idle air bleed installed.
  1. While holding down on pump plunger stem, lift corner of air horn gasket and remove pump plunger from pump well.
  2. Remove solenoid metering rod plunger.
  3. Remove rubber seal from around mixture control solenoid connector.
  4. Lift air horn gasket off of dowel pins on float bowl. Discard gasket.
  5. Remove pump return spring from well.
  6. Remove staking holding throttle position sensor (TPS) in place as follows:
    1. Place suitable metal piece across bowl casting to protect gasket surface from prying forces.
    2. Using small screwdriver, lightly depress and hold TPS down against spring tension.
    3. Carefully pry upward with suitable chisel to remove bowl staking, taking care that prying force is exerted against metal piece.
    4. Push up on electrical connector to remove TPS from bowl taking care not to damage part.
    5. Remove spring from bottom of well.
  1. Remove plastic filler block over float chamber.
  2. Carefully lift each primary metering rod out of jet, making sure that return spring is removed with each metering rod. Then, remove return spring by sliding off end of rod.
  3. Remove mixture control solenoid from float bowl as follows:
    1. Remove solenoid connector screw. Do not remove connector at this point.
    2. Using tool BT-7928 or equivalent, on upper end of lean mixture adjustment screw, note number of turns required (clockwise) to bottom screw lightly. Record number of turns for later use. Then, turn screw counterclockwise and remove.
    3. Carefully lift mixture control solenoid and connector assembly from float bowl.
    4. Do not remove plunger return spring or connector from float bowl. Do not remove plunger return spring or connector and wires from solenoid body.
    5. Remove plastic insert (if used) from cavity in float bowl beneath solenoid connector.
    6. Remove lean mixture screw tension spring.
  1. Remove float assembly and float needle by pulling up on retaining pin. Using tool BT-3006M or equivalent, remove needle and seat gasket.
  2. Remove large mixture control solenoid spring from boss on bottom of float bowl located between metering jets.
  3. If necessary, remove primary metering jets using tool BT-7928 or equivalent. Do not attempt to remove secondary metering jets (orifice plates) since they are fixed and, if damaged, fuel bowl replacement will be necessary.
  4. Remove pump discharge check ball retainer. Turn fuel bowl upside down to remove check ball.
  5. Remove secondary air baffle, if necessary.
  6. If necessary, remove pump well fill slot baffle.
  7. Remove hose from rear vacuum break, if used. Then remove 2 screws from bracket and rotate assembly to remove vacuum break rod or link from slot in plunger head.
  8. Support float bowl and throttle body assembly on suitable fixture.
  9. Using #21 drill bit (.159 inch), carefully drill off choke cover rivet head. Using drift and hammer, drive remainder of rivets out of choke housing.
  10. Remove 3 retainers, choke cover gasket (if used), and choke cover assembly from choke housing. On models with hot air choke, do not remove baffle plate from beneath thermostatic coil on choke cover.
  11. On all models, remove retaining screw and washer inside choke housing, then choke housing by sliding outward.
  12. On models with hot air choke, remove plastic tube seal from vacuum inlet boss on choke housing.
  13. On all models, remove rear vacuum break rod or link (if used) from intermediate choke lever.
  14. Remove secondary throttle valve lockout lever from float bowl.
  15. Remove choke coil lever retaining screw at end of intermediate choke shaft and remove lever. On models with hot air choke, remove cup seal inside choke housing shaft hole if housing will be immersed in carburetor cleaner.
  16. Slide intermediate choke shaft from choke housing. Then, remove fast idle cam from intermediate shaft.
  17. Remove cup seal from float bowl insert for cleaning. Do not attempt to remove insert.
  18. Remove lower choke rod lever from inside float bowl housing.
  19. Remove fuel inlet nut, gasket, check valve filter assembly, and spring.
  20. Remove 3 throttle body to fuel bowl screws and lock washers, then throttle body assembly.
  21. Remove insulator gasket.
  22. Place throttle body assembly on carburetor holding fixture.
  23. Rotate pump link until tang aligns with slot in lever, then remove link.
  24. Do not remove concealment plugs on mixture needles for cleaning.

This is the GENERAL method of the Pontiac 307Y Engine Rochester Quadrajet Carb cleaning and inspection

  1. The following parts should not be placed in carburetor cleaner:
    1. Rubber parts, electrical solenoids, plastic parts, vacuum diaphragms and pump plunger.
    2. Choke coil and cover assembly.
    3. Fuel filter.
    4. Air horn, unless idle air bleed has been removed.
  1. Thoroughly clean all metal parts. Make sure all fuel passages and metering parts are free of burrs and dirt. Do not pass drills or wires through jets and passages.
  2. Inspect upper and lower casting surfaces for damage.
  3. Thoroughly inspect all internal parts for damage, wear, burrs, binding or distortion.

We Used to use 1 Gallon Cans with a basket inside of Carb Cleaner available aqt most parts stores, I am not sure if they still offer it?

This is the GENERAL method of the Pontiac 307Y Engine Rochester Quadrajet reassemble


  1. Align tang on lower end of pump link with slot in lever and install. End of link should point outward toward throttle lever.
  2. Place new throttle body to bowl gasket over 2 locating dowels on bowl.
  3. Position throttle body properly over dowels on float bowl, then install 3 screws and lockwashers. Tighten evenly and securely.
  4. Install fuel filter, spring, new gasket and nut. Torque nut to 18 ft. lbs.
  5. Install new cup seal into insert on side of float bowl for intermediate choke shaft. Lip on cup seal must face outward.
  6. Install secondary throttle valve lockout lever on boss on float bowl with recess in hole in lever facing inward.
  7. On models with hot air chokes, install new cup seal into choke shaft hole. Lip on seal faces inward toward float bowl.
  8. On all models, install fast idle cam onto intermediate choke shaft with steps on cam facing down. Then, install fast idle cam and intermediate choke shaft assembly in choke housing, carefully pushing shaft through seal in housing.
  9. Install choke coil lever on flats on intermediate choke shaft. Install retaining screw and tighten securely. Lever is properly aligned when inside and outside levers both face toward fuel inlet.
  10. If used, install rear vacuum break link in intermediate choke lever hole. End of link must face toward choke housing.
  11. On models with hot air chokes, insert plastic tube seal (to float bowl) in vacuum inlet hole on choke housing.
  12. On all models, install lower (inner) choke lever in float bowl cavity. Install choke housing on float bowl housing by sliding intermediate choke shaft through bowl seal and into slot in lower (inner) choke lever.
  13. Install choke housing retaining screw and washer and tighten. Check that linkage moves freely. Do not install choke housing cover and coil assembly on choke housing until adjustments are complete.
  14. If used, install end of vacuum break link into slot in rear vacuum break plunger. Then install vacuum break and bracket assembly on float bowl using 2 large countersunk screws.
  15. If removed, install air baffle in secondary side of float bowl with notches toward top. Top edge of baffle must be flush with bowl casting.
  16. If removed, install baffle inside of pump well with slot at bottom.
  17. Install pump discharge check ball and retainer screw in passage at pump well. Tighten screw.
  18. If removed, carefully install primary metering jets in bottom of float bowl using tool BT-7928 or equivalent. Jets should be seated securely in bowl, but not overtightened.
  19. Install large mixture control solenoid tension spring over boss on bottom of float bowl.
  20. Using seat installer BT-3006M or equivalent, install needle seat assembly with gasket.
  21. To make float level adjustment easier, carefully bend float arm upward at notch in arm before assembly.



  1. Slide float lever under needle pull clip to install float needle onto float arm. Needle pull clip should be hooked over edge of float on float arm facing float pontoon, Fig. 6.
  2. Install float hinge pin into float arm with end of pin loop facing pump well. Then, install float assembly by aligning needle in seat and float hinge pin into locating channels in float bowl. Do not install float needle pull clip into holes in float arm since flooding may result.
  3. Refer to On Vehicle Adjustments and adjust float level.
  4. If used, install plastic insert in float bowl cavity with recess in side of insert facing needle seat. Tang on upper lip of insert goes in deep slot in bowl closest to fuel inlet nut so notch in insert aligns with slot in bowl for connector wires. Make sure insert is seated in cavity.
  5. Install mixture control solenoid screw tension spring between raised bosses next to float hanger pin.
  6. Install mixture control solenoid and connector assembly as follows:
    1. Carefully install solenoid in fuel chamber, aligning pin on bottom of solenoid with hole in raised boss at bottom of bowl. Align solenoid connector wires to fit in bowl housing slot, or plastic insert if used.
    2. Install lean mixture control solenoid screw through hole in solenoid bracket and tension spring in bowl. Start screw in hole taking care that threads engage properly.
    3. Using tool BT-7928 or equivalent, turn lean mixture screw clockwise until solenoid screw bottoms lightly in bowl. Check that arms on solenoid bracket clear raised bosses in float bowl.
    4. From bottomed position, back out lean mixture screw same number of turns noted during disassembly (step 23b under "Disassemble").
  1. Align solenoid with notch in plastic insert (if used) and connector lugs with recesses in bowl, then install connector attaching screw and tighten securely.
  2. Install TPS return spring in well.
  3. Align TPS and connector assembly with slot in float bowl housing. Push down connector and sensor assembly so connector and wires are located below bowl housing surface.
  4. Position plastic filler block over float valve and press down until properly installed.
  5. Slide metering rod return spring over metering rod tip until small end of spring stops against shoulder on rod. Insert metering rod and spring assembly through hole in plastic filler block. Carefully lower metering rod into metering jet. Use care not to force any components.
  6. Install pump return spring in well.
  7. Install pump plunger assembly in well.
  8. Hold down pump plunger assembly against return spring and align pump plunger stem with hole in air horn gasket. Also align gasket over 2 dowel pins on float bowl housing.
  9. Install larger rubber seal over mixture control solenoid connector.
  10. While holding down on air horn gasket and pump plunger assembly, align slot in end of solenoid-metering rod plunger with solenoid mounting screw and install. Check that plunger arms engage top of each metering rod.

  1. Liberally apply lithium base grease to air valve shaft pin, Fig. 7. Make sure that pin surface contacted by closing spring is lubricated.
  2. Install new pump plunger stem seat and retainer in air horn casting with lip on seal facing outwards. Lightly stake retainer in 3 different locations than original staking.
  3. Install new TPS plunger seal and retainer in air horn casting with lip on seal facing outward away from air horn casting surface. Lightly stake retainer in 3 different locations than original staking.
  4. If removed, install rich mixture stop screw from bottom side of air horn. Using tool BT-7928 or equivalent, turn screw in until lightly bottomed. If screw was removed, carburetor must be recalibrated.
  5. If removed, install idle air bleed valve in air horn as follows:
    1. Coat O-rings with silicon oil and install new O-rings on air bleed valve body, taking care that O-rings seat in grooves. Thick ring goes in upper groove and thin seal goes in lower groove.
    2. Install bleed valve in air horn and using screwdriver, turn valve clockwise until lightly seated.
    3. From bottomed position, back off valve 2 turns.
  1. While holding down on air horn gasket at pump plunger location, carefully lower air horn assembly onto float bowl housing while positioning TPS adjustment lever over throttle position sensor, guiding pump plunger stem through seal in air horn casting. To aid installation, use small thin screwdriver to raise TPS adjustment lever to position it over sensor. Check that bleed tubes are positioned properly through holes in air horn gasket.

  1. Install 11 air horn screws and lockwashers, and 2 countersunk screws located next to carburetor venturi area. If used, position secondary air baffle deflector under air horn screws #3 and #4. Tighten screws evenly in numerical sequence as shown in Fig. 5.
  2. Install air valve rod into slot in lever on end of air valve shaft. Install other end of rod in hole in front vacuum break diaphragm plunger. Install vacuum break and bracket assembly on air horn and tighten 2 screws securely.
  3. Carefully push TPS actuator plunger through seal in air horn until seated against TPS plunger. Plunger should move freely.
  4. Check mixture control solenoid plunger travel as described in Tune Up section. Following mixture control solenoid plunger adjustment, install new lean mixture plug and rich mixture stop screw plug.
  5. Connect upper end of pump link to pump lever. Position lever between raised bosses on air horn housing, making sure that lever engages TPSactuator plunger and pump plunger stem. Using small drift, align hole in pump lever with holes in air horn casting bosses. Then, using suitable pliers, pry roll pin enough to insert thin bladed screwdriver between end of roll pin and air cleaner locating boss on air horn casting. Using screwdriver, push pump lever roll pin back through casting until end of pin is flush with casting bosses on air horn.
  6. Install 2 secondary metering rods in secondary metering rod hanger with upper ends of rods pointing toward each other. Install secondary metering rod hanger with rods on air valve cam follower. Install and tighten retaining screw. Check for free operation of air valve and metering rods.
  7. Connect rod into lower choke lever inside float bowl housing cavity.
  8. Install choke rod in upper choke lever and position lever on end of choke shaft, then install retaining screw and tighten. Lever should point to rear of carburetor and number on lever should face outward. Choke coil pickup lever (inside choke housing) must be indexed properly and fast idle cam and front and rear vacuum break adjustments checked before installing choke cover and coil assembly. Refer to On Vehicle Adjustments.
  9. Install thermostatic choke cover and gasket (if used) on choke housing making sure coil tang engages choke coil lever. Do not install choke cover gasket between electric choke assembly and choke housing since ground contact on E4ME models is provided by metal plate located at rear of choke cover assembly.
  10. Obtain choke cover retainer kit to attach choke cover to choke housing.
  11. Connect vacuum break hoses on front and rear (if equipped) vacuum break units.
  12. Install idle speed control, idle load compensator or idle speed solenoid and bracket assembly on float bowl, with 2 large countersunk head screws and tighten securely.

OKAY, WARNING!!!! DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS UNLESS YOU ARE READY TO TAKE YOUR TIME AND HAVE ALLOT OF PATIENCE AND CAN WORK WITH SMALL PIECES AND PRECISION MEASUREMENTS.





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