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rightbrainnow
New User
Jul 19, 2012, 2:02 PM
Post #1 of 6
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fuel issue i think
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1992
Nissan
240sx
2.4
160k body 130k engine
I have an all stock 92 240sx. it has always leaked a little oil. checked oil yesterday and it was pretty low. i drove to the gas station and put in 2 quarts. this got it up to a little above the halfway point. i start the car up and it idles really rough. i drive it about 50 yards and it runs rough. i stop the car and inspect. some black smoke coming from exhaust. car starts to idle ok, but car will not go above 2500 rpms. seems like too much fuel or not enough. car kinda gets violent when i get up to 2500 rpms. im thinking the 2 quarts of oil is just a freak occurence...doesnt seem like an oil issue. it had a leaky head gasket that was replaced less than a year ago and i see now leaks or breaks in it. i replaced the spark plugs, wires, fuel filter, and added some fuel system cleaner for the hell of it. now just runs bad better. no smoke...smoke only happened at the very beginning of issue. the engine was replaced about a year ago from a used 95 240....i remember the guy that put engine in saying timing belt or timing chain looked a little rough. perhaps the 2500 rpm thing is a timing issue? what should i do next? wouldnt have any clue on how to fix timing chain. could do fuel injectors next.
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nickwarner
Veteran
/ Moderator
Jul 19, 2012, 3:08 PM
Post #2 of 6
(5951 views)
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Re: fuel issue i think
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don't throw parts at this. You're most likely just going to waste a ton of money and have the same issue. You can't see a head gasket unless you take the head off, so maybe you're seeing the edge of it external of the motor. Some do have a little overhang. Does sound like its running rich, and if the guy putting it in said your timing chain looked bad its beyond me why you didn't have him change it when the motor was out. If it stretches it will cause the issues you are having, and if it breaks you will be buying a new head because you will bend every valve in the head. If it breaks at high enough RPM you will probably end up will piston damage and I've seen it happen where the valve head shears off and bounces around in the cylinder until the block is beyond repair. You need to look at it.
Here is how to remove your timing cover:
Print
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
200SX (Z Series Engine)
See Figure 1
  
Fig. Fig. 1: Timing chain front cover - Z series engine
It may be necessary to remove additional components to perform this operation if you cannot cut the gasket cleanly as described in Step 10. The CA20E, CA18ET and VG30E are belt driven engines. - Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery, drain the cooling system, and remove the radiator together with the upper and lower radiator hoses.
- Loosen the alternator drive belt adjusting screw and remove the drive belt. Remove the bolts, which attach the alternator bracket to the engine and set the alternator aside out of the way.
- Mark and remove the distributor. Refer to Distributor Removal And Installation if necessary.
- Remove the oil pump attaching screws, and take out the pump and its drive spindle.
- Remove the cooling fan and the fan pulley together with the drive belt.
- Remove the water pump.
- Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and remove the crankshaft pulley.
- Remove the bolts holding the front cover to the front of the cylinder block, the four bolts which retain the front of the oil pan to the bottom of the front cover, and the two bolts which are screwed down through the front of the cylinder head and into the top of the front cover.
- Carefully pry the front cover off the front of the engine.
To install:
- Cut the exposed front section of the oil pan gasket away from the oil pan. Do the same to the gasket at the top of the front cover. Remove the two side gaskets and clean all of the mating surfaces.
- Cut the portions needed from a new oil pan gasket and top front cover gasket.
- Apply sealer to all of the gaskets and position them on the engine in their proper places.
- Apply a light coating of grease to the crankshaft oil seal and carefully mount the front cover to the front of the engine and install all of the mounting bolts.
Tighten the 8mm bolts to 7-12 ft. lbs. and the 6mm bolts to 36-72 inch lbs. Tighten the oil pan attaching bolts to 48-84 inch lbs. - Before installing the oil pump, place the gasket over the shaft and make sure that the mark on the drive spindle faces (aligned) with the oil pump hole.
- Install the oil pump after priming it with oil. For oil pump installation procedures, see Oil Pump Removal and Installation in this section.
- Install the crankshaft pulley and bolt.
- Install the water pump with a new gasket. Install the fan pulley and cooling fan. Install the drive belt and adjust the belt to the correct tension.
- Install the distributor in the correct position. Reconnect the alternator bracket and alternator if it was removed. Install the drive belt and adjust the belt to the correct tension.
- Reconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses and refill the cooling system.
- Reconnect the negative battery cable. Start the engine, check ignition timing and check for leaks.
240SX (KA24DE Engine)
- Remove the negative battery cable.
- Drain the engine oil and coolant.
- Remove the cylinder head assembly.
- Raise and support the vehicle safely. Remove the oil pan, oil strainer and baffle plate.
- Remove the crankshaft pulley using a suitable puller. Removal of the radiator may be necessary to gain clearance.
- Support the engine and remove the front engine mount.
- Loosen the front cover bolts in two or three steps and remove the front cover.
To install:
- Clean all mating surfaces of liquid gasket material.
- Apply a continuos bead of liquid gasket to the mating surface of the timing cover. Install the oil pump drive spacer and front cover. Tighten front cover bolts (in steps) to 56 ft. lbs. (68 Nm). Wipe excess liquid gasket material.
- Install front engine mount.
- Install crankshaft pulley and tighten bolt to specifications. Set No. 1 piston at TDC on the compression stroke.
- Install the oil strainer and baffle. Install the oil pan.
- Install the cylinder head assembly.
- Lower the vehicle, connect the negative battery cable, Refill fluid levels, start the engine and check for leaks. Road test the vehicle for proper operation.
240SX (KA24E Engine)
See Figures 2, 3, 4 and 5 - Disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Drain the cooling system and oil pan. To drain the cooling system, open the radiator drain cock and remove the engine block drain plug. The block plug is located on the left side of the block near the engine freeze plugs.
- Remove the radiator shroud and the cooling fan.
- Loosen the alternator drive belt adjusting screw and remove the drive belt.
- Remove the power steering and air conditioning drive belts.
- Remove the spark plugs and the distributor cap. Set the No. 1 piston to TDC of the compression stroke. Carefully remove the distributor. Before removal, scribe alignment marks in the timing cover and flat portion of the oil pump/distributor drive spindle. This alignment is critical and if not done properly, it could cause difficulty is aligning the distributor and setting the timing.
- Remove the power steering pump, idler pulley and the power steering brackets.
- Remove the air conditioning compressor idler pulley.
- Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and remove the crankshaft pulley with a 2 jawed puller.
- Remove the oil pump attaching screws, and withdraw the pump and its drive spindle.
- Remove the rocker arm cover.
- Remove the oil pan.
- Remove the bolts holding the front cover to the front of the cylinder block, the 4 bolts which retain the front of the oil pan to the bottom of the front cover, and the 4 bolts which are screwed down through the front of the cylinder head and into the top of the front cover. Carefully pry the front cover off the front of the engine. Clean all the old sealant from the surface of the front cover and the cylinder block.
- Replace the crankshaft oil seal and the 2 timing chain cover oil seals in the block. These two seals should be installed in the block and not in the timing cover.
To install:
- Verify the No. 1 piston is at TDC of the compression stroke. Apply a very thin bead of high temperature liquid gasket to both sides of the front cover and to where the cover mates with the cylinder head. Apply a light coating of grease to the crankshaft and timing cover oil seals and carefully bolt the front cover to the front of the engine.
When installing the front cover, be careful not to damage the cylinder head gasket or to disturb the position of the oil seals in the block. Make sure the tab on the larger block oil seal is pointing to the exterior of the block. - Install new rubber plugs in the cylinder head.
- Install the oil pan.
- Install the rocker arm cover.
- Before installing the oil pump, place the gasket over the shaft and make sure the mark on the drive spindle faces (aligned) with the oil pump hole. Install the oil pump and distributor driving spindle into the front cover with a new gasket.
- Install the crankshaft pulley and bolt. Torque the pulley bolt to 87116 ft. lbs. (118157 Nm).
- Install the distributor and the spark plugs.
- Install the compressor idler pulley. Install power steering pump brackets, idler pulley and power steering pump. Install the drive belts and adjust the tension.
- Install the radiator shroud and the cooling fan.
- Refill the cooling system and crankcase to the proper levels.
- Connect the negative battery cable.
- Start the engine, check/set the ignition timing and check for engine leaks. Road test the vehicle for proper operation.
Fig. Fig. 2: Timing chain cover - 240SX KA24E engine
Fig. Fig. 3: Aligning the timing cover and distributor/oil pump drive - 240SX KA24E engine
Fig. Fig. 4: Cylinder block timing chain cover seals - make sure tab on larger seal is positioned as shown - 240SX KA24E engine
Fig. Fig. 5: Applying sealant to front cover - 240SX KA24E engine Stanza (KA24E Engine)
- Disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Raise the front of the vehicle and support safely.
- Remove the right front wheel.
- Remove the dust cover and undercover.
- Drain the oil pan.
- Set the No. 1 piston at TDC of the compression stroke.
- Remove the alternator and air conditioning compressor drive belts.
- Remove the alternator and adjusting bar.
- Remove the oil separator.
- Remove the power steering pump pulley, pump stay and mounting bracket.
- Discharge the air conditioning system and remove the compressor and mounting bracket.
- Remove the crankshaft pulley and oil pump drive boss.
- Remove the oil pan.
- Remove the oil strainer mounting bolt.
- Remove the bolts that attach the front cover to the head and the block.
- Remove the rocker cover.
- Support the engine with a suitable lifting device.
- Unbolt the right side engine mount bracket from the block and lower the engine.
- Remove the front cover.
- Clean all the old sealant from the surface of the front cover and the cylinder block.
- Replace the crankshaft oil seal and the 2 timing chain cover oil seals in the block. These two seals should be installed in the block and not in the timing cover.
To install:
- Verify the No. 1 piston is at TDC. Apply a very thin bead of high temperature liquid gasket to both sides of the front cover and to where the cover mates with the cylinder head. Apply a light coating of grease to the crankshaft and timing cover oil seals and carefully mount the front cover to the front of the engine.
When installing the front cover, be careful not to damage the cylinder head gasket or to disturb the position of the oil seals in the block. Make sure the tab on the larger block oil seal is pointing to the exterior of the block. - Install new rubber plugs in the cylinder head.
- Raise the engine and install the right engine mount bracket bolts. Torque the bolts to 5865 ft. lbs. (7888 Nm).
- Install the rocker arm cover.
- Install the front cover bolts.
- Install the oil strainer mounting bolt.
- Install the oil pan.
- Install the oil pump drive boss and the crankshaft pulley. Torque the pulley bolt to 87-116 ft. lbs. (118-157 Nm).
- Install the air conditioning compressor bracket and mount the compressor.
- Install the power steering bracket, pump stay and power steering pump.
- Install the oil separator.
- Install the dust cover and undercover.
- Mount the right front wheel and lower the vehicle.
- Fill the crankcase to the proper level and charge the air conditioning system.
- Make all the necessary engine adjustments.
Once you get that off, this is how you do the chain
Print
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
200SX (Z Series)
See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 - Before beginning any disassembly procedures, position the No. 1 piston at TDC on the compression stroke.
- Remove the front cover as previously outlined. Remove the camshaft cover and remove the fuel pump if it runs off a cam lobe in front of the camshaft sprocket.
- With the No. 1 piston at TDC, the timing marks in the camshaft sprocket and the timing chain should be visible. Mark both of them with paint. Also mark the relationship of the camshaft sprocket to the camshaft. At this point you will notice that there are three sets of timing marks and locating holes in the sprocket. They are for making adjustments to compensate for timing chain stretch. See the following "Timing Chain Adjustment" for more details.
- With the timing marks on the cam sprocket clearly marked, locate and mark the timing marks on the crankshaft sprocket. Also mark the chain timing mark. Of course, if the chain is not to be re-used, marking it is useless
- Unbolt the camshaft sprocket and remove the sprocket along with the chain. As you remove the chain, hold it where the chain tensioner contacts it. When the chain is removed, the tensioner is going to come apart. Hold on to it and you won't lose any of the parts. There is no need to remove the chain guide unless it is being replaced.
- Using a two armed gear puller, remove the crankshaft sprocket assembly.
To install:
- Install the timing chain and the camshaft sprocket together after first positioning the chain over the crankshaft sprocket. Position the sprocket so that the marks made earlier line up. This is assuming that the engine has not been disturbed. The camshaft and crankshaft keys should both be pointed upward. If a new chain and/or gear is being installed, position the sprocket so that the timing marks on the chain align with the marks on the crankshaft sprocket and the camshaft sprocket (with both keys pointing up). The marks are on the right hand side of the sprockets as you face the engine. The L18 has 42 pins between the mating marks of the chain and sprockets when the chain is installed correctly. The L20B has 44 pins. The 1977-78 L24 engine used in the 810 has 42 pins between timing marks. The L24 (1979-84), Z20E and Z20S engines do not use the pin counting method for finding correct valve timing. Instead, position the key in the crankshaft sprocket so that it is pointing upward and install the cam
shaft sprocket on the camshaft with its dowel pin at the top using the No. 2 (No. 1 on the L24) mounting hole and timing mark. The painted links of the chain should be on the right hand side of the sprockets as you face the engine. See the illustration.
The factory manual refers to the pins you are to count in the L-series engines as links, but in America, this is not correct. Count the pins. There are two pins per link. This is an important step. If you do not get the exact number of pins between the timing marks, valve timing will be incorrect and the engine will either not run at all, in which case you may stand the chance of bending the valves, or the engine will run very bad. - Install the chain tensioner and the front cover assembly.
If timing chain assembly uses chain guides these guides do not have to be removed to replace the timing chain. Check the timing chain for cracks and excessive wear.
Fig. Fig. 1: Removing the camshaft sprocket
Fig. Fig. 2: Tensioner and chain guide removal
Fig. Fig. 3: Crankshaft sprocket removal
Fig. Fig. 4: Timing chain and sprocket alignment - Z series engine
Fig. Fig. 5: Use the No 2 mark and hole to align camshaft - Z series engine
TIMING CHAIN ADJUSTMENT
See Figure 6
Fig. Fig. 6: Timing chain adjustment
When the timing chain stretches excessively, the valve timing will be adversely affected. There are three sets of holes and timing marks on the camshaft sprocket.
If the stretch of the chain roller links is excessive, adjust the camshaft sprocket location by transferring the set position of the camshaft sprocket from the factory position of No. 1 or No. 2 to one of the other positions as follows: - Turn the crankshaft until the No. 1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke. Examine whether the camshaft sprocket location notch is to the left of the oblong groove on the camshaft retaining plate. If the notch in the sprocket is to the left of the groove in the retaining plate, then the chain is stretched and needs adjusting.
- Remove the camshaft sprocket together with the chain and reinstall the sprocket and chain with the locating dowel on the camshaft inserted into either the No. 2 or 3 hole of the sprocket. The timing mark on the timing chain must be aligned with the mark on the sprocket. The amount of modification is 4° of crankshaft rotation for each mark.
- Recheck the valve timing as outlined in Step 1. The notch in the sprocket should be to the right of the groove in the camshaft retaining plate.
- If and when the notch cannot be brought to the right of the groove, the timing chain is worn beyond repair and must be replaced.
240SX and 1990-92 Stanza (KA24E Engine)
See Figures 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 and 13
Fig. Fig. 7: Timing chain assembly - KA24E engine
Fig. Fig. 8: Timing chain and sprocket alignment - KA24E engine
Fig. Fig. 9: Correct installation of crankshaft sprocket, oil pump, drive gear, oil thrower - KA24E engine
Fig. Fig. 10: Timing chain assembly - KA24E engine
Fig. Fig. 11: Oil seals in left side of engine block - KA24E engine
Fig. Fig. 12: Installing oil pump - 240SX KA24E engine
Fig. Fig. 13: Drive spindle for oil pump in correct location - 240SX KA24E engine - Disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Set the No. 1 piston at TDC of the compression stroke.
- Remove the front cover.
- If necessary, define the timing marks with chalk or paint to ensure proper alignment.
- Hold the camshaft sprocket stationary with a spanner wrench or similar tool and remove the camshaft sprocket bolt.
- Remove chain tensioner.
- Remove the chain guides.
- Remove the timing chain.
- Remove the sprocket oil slinger, oil pump drive gear and crankshaft gear.
To install:
- Install the crankshaft sprocket, oil pump drive gear and oil slinger onto the end of the crankshaft. Make sure the crankshaft sprocket timing marks face toward the front.
- Install the camshaft sprocket, bolt and washer. The alignment mark must face towards the front. Tighten the bolt just enough to hold the sprocket in place.
- Verify that the No. 1 piston is at TDC of the compression stroke. The crankshaft key-ways should be at the 12 o'clock position.
- Install the timing chain by aligning the marks on the chain with the marks on the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets. Torque the camshaft sprocket bolt to 87116 ft. lbs. (118157 Nm) once the timing chain is in place and aligned.
- Install the chain tensioner and chain guide.
- Install the front cover.
- Connect the negative battery cable.
240SX (KA24DE Engine)
See Figures 14 and 15
Fig. Fig. 14: Timing chain installation - 240SX KA24DE engine
Fig. Fig. 15: Timing chain installation - 240SX KA24DE engine - Release the fuel system pressure.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable and drain the cooling system. Drain engine oil.
- Remove the cylinder head assembly.
- Remove the oil pan.
- Remove the oil strainer, crankshaft pulley.
- Remove the front cover assembly.
- Remove the lower timing chain tensioner, tension arm, lower timing chain guide.
- Remove the lower timing chain and idler sprocket.
To install:
- Check all components for wear. Replace as necessary. Clean all mating surfaces and replace the cylinder head gasket.
- Install crankshaft sprocket. Make sure that mating marks of crankshaft sprocket face front of the engine.
- Rotate crankshaft so that No. 1 piston is set a TDC position.
- Install idler sprocket and lower timing chain.
- Install chain tension arm, chain guide and lower timing chain tensioner.
- Install front cover assembly.
- Install crankshaft pulley, oil strainer and oil pan.
- Install the cylinder head assembly.
- Install all remaining components in reverse order of removal.
- Connect the negative battery cable. Refill all fluid levels. Road test the vehicle for proper operation.
If this is beyond your scope of comfort or tools I would hire someone familiar with this type of car. A wrong move or the wrong tooling and facility to work in can make this a very expensive thing very quickly.
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rightbrainnow
New User
Jul 19, 2012, 3:21 PM
Post #3 of 6
(5948 views)
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Re: fuel issue i think
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I really appreciate your response. Yes, that seems outside of my ability. Any shadetree mechanics around Knoxville, TN out there?
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nickwarner
Veteran
/ Moderator
Jul 19, 2012, 3:35 PM
Post #4 of 6
(5945 views)
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Re: fuel issue i think
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None of us here are shadetree, its a mix of current and retired professional techs and shop owners. I wouldn't want an average joe out in a gravel driveway monkeying with this one. If the guy who put this in the car has a good facility and knows what he's doing ask him for a quote. He's familiar with this motor if he was able to point out the chain being bad at install. You really should look in the archives of previous posters who let backyard mechanics under the hood and posted with how expensive the damage was. It would make you cringe. The cheapest repair is rarely the least expensive one in the long run.
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rightbrainnow
New User
Jul 19, 2012, 3:49 PM
Post #5 of 6
(5942 views)
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Re: fuel issue i think
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i hear ya. thanks.
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rightbrainnow
New User
Jul 23, 2012, 3:41 PM
Post #6 of 6
(5893 views)
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Re: fuel issue i think
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Ok, so i took it to a real auto repair shop. They told me it was the mass air flow connection. They said it was loose and reconnected it. However, when I went to go start my car, there is an entirely new set of problems. At first the car wouldnt start. The car is 20 years old...every once in a while it wont turn over. I usually just wait a couple seconds and it fires up just fine. The guys come out to look at it, and start messing with the clutch switch. They fix that, but now there is just tons of grey/white smoke coming out of exhaust. The car has never done this. There was black smoke for a brief moment with the original issue (see first post), but never this kind of smoke. I ask the mechanic about it and he just says "its tired and she runs rough". I inquire further about if theres anything I could watch out for with it and he says "just watch the oil levels". I sputter my way back home...car even dies a few times on the road...like its trying to stay alive but just sputters from idle to off. I get home and check the oil...waaaayy too much oil...a little over the top mark. Now, I checked the oil a few days ago and it was about it the middle...see no reason why these guys would add oil to the car. I drain about a quart-quart 1/2 of oil and start her back up but the problem persists. Lots of smoke, and is just running poorly. I dont know if sense it was late in the day and the guys were just trying to get home and didnt care or what. They have a pretty good reputation around town from what I understand...pretty nice place actually. The original issue is fixed, and have learned that its called the "limp issue". Any idea what they could have done to start all this new trouble?
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