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contourmama
Novice
Nov 30, 2011, 4:28 PM
Post #1 of 12
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I have owned my contour since new 1996. It is a GL 2.0 liter. Two weeks ago my temp gauge went no higher then the "N" in normal. It should be between "R" & "M".
At the same time, I noticed no heat from the heater.
Here are the things that have now been done:
-Heater core
- 2 Tstat's
- Fan & Gauge sending units.
After all this and even before, there were moments when the gauge would go up and heat would be normal while the car is in motion.
The water pump & timing belt were changed 5500km ago. There is water pump circulation and the tstat is opening. I also want to mention that all the wiring has been check and is fine with no shorts.
Please, if anyone has had this problem and was able to solve it. I would sire appreciate hearing from you.
Sorry for such a long post.
Maria
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 30, 2011, 4:29 PM
Post #2 of 12
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Re: contour problem
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With the engine at full operating temp, locate the 2 heater hoses where they go into the firewall and feel them to see if they are both hot to the touch. If not too hot to hold, then you have to look at the actual engine temp and if that is up, if it is, then your looking at a restricted heater core.
If you find that they are both too hot to hold, then the heat in that vehicle is controlled by a blend door that regulates heated air flow. it is operated by an electric motor/actuator. The problem can be that the actuator is stripped or inoperative or the door itself could be damaged. This is what needs to be determined by examining the actuator and see if it is responding to heat change commands or not.
If they are both not too hot to hold on to, then you either have a restricted heater core or the system is not completely full and getting air pockets for some reason.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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contourmama
Novice
Nov 30, 2011, 4:45 PM
Post #3 of 12
(1595 views)
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Re: contour problem
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Thank you. However all the controls for the heater are in full working order. The blend and A/C are just fine. The heater hoses do get hot on both sides. However, while the car ins in idle and the fan on high.....the fan blower will cool the core down unless I rev up the engine and then the heat returns. The heater core was changed along with the other items on the list last week.
I have even gone to a Ford dealership and they were able to do nothing. They check the head gasket and it is OK. The water temp was 150 and 190 on the other side.However, the gauge would not go higher then "O". The only thing they suggested was to remove the frost plugs and have the engine flushed at $500.00+ . This is just a strange problem. The coolant is clean and 50/50 and oil, etc are fine. The engine is running great and lots of pep. this is the first time I have had any trouble with her since new other then standard maintenance.
I hope a fellow Contour owner will have experienced this and let me know.
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 30, 2011, 5:00 PM
Post #4 of 12
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Re: contour problem
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Ford dealership was stumped, huh?
Are you sure it didn't have something to do with you telling them their business?
You have all the answers except what is wrong with the car.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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contourmama
Novice
Nov 30, 2011, 5:10 PM
Post #5 of 12
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Re: contour problem
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Mr. Hammer Time,
No, I left the car with them for two days and they charge 200.00 to let me know what I wrote in my last post. They were no "stumped" but, really had no "that will fix it" answer. Just the suggestion to do that heavy duty flush at $500.00 and no way to know it will work. On man that changes things on my car wanted to change the head gasket for $1000.00. However, he was only guessing that there was a head gasket problem. That is when I decided to take her where I bought her and they could test the gasket.
Is there anything else you can think of. I am wondering about this black metal pipe that runs from the bottom rad hose to the stat housing??. I know some thing about cars from my late husband. However, I'm not sure what that water lead purpose is. The pipe runs right in front of the exhaust. manifold
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 30, 2011, 5:13 PM
Post #6 of 12
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Re: contour problem
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The first step any knowledgeable tech would do is put a scan tool on it and find out exactly what the engine temp is according to the computer. What is the engine temp exactly?
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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contourmama
Novice
Nov 30, 2011, 5:20 PM
Post #7 of 12
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Re: contour problem
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On the print out they gave me it states: Tested lower ECT sensor OK. Tested circuitry & gauge...OK. Temp of engine OK 150f- 190f Possible clogs???.
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 30, 2011, 5:26 PM
Post #8 of 12
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Re: contour problem
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Something just isn't adding up here.
Clogs make engine run hotter, not cooler. If it has the proper 195 thermostat and it's working, it won't allow the coolant to circulate until it reaches that temp and there is no way that engine will stay that cool with no circulation at all, regardless of what the fan is doing. I would want to know if that thermostat is opening up or not.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 30, 2011, 5:30 PM
Post #9 of 12
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Re: contour problem
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Did you use the OEM thermostat (dealer part)?
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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contourmama
Novice
Nov 30, 2011, 5:33 PM
Post #10 of 12
(1548 views)
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Re: contour problem
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Honestly, I think the same as you. It should get hotter or even over heat. Yes, two 195 stats (ford) were tried. The tech also could see the water drop in the holding tank when the stat opens. Please believe me, if it was not so strange......I would not have put it on your forum. I decided to do this instead of just pouring more $$ into the unknown.....if you know what I mean. So far this has costed $500.00. $300.00 for heater core replacement and $200.00 from the dealers tests.
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contourmama
Novice
Dec 1, 2011, 7:46 AM
Post #11 of 12
(1527 views)
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Re: contour problem
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I wanted to follow up today and let the forum know that last night the car was working fine. The temp gauge was up and plenty of heat. Is there a possibly of a very bad air lock in the system. I would have thought (if there was) the Ford tech would have spotted that. I have read on-line that contours can be difficult to remove air locks. Not sure if this is the best way to do so. However, I have read that you should drive with the cap off the over flow tank for a day to bleed the air....???. I have also read that you can massage the hoses to get the air out. That this time, I think I will just see if it stays working. With winter coming, I would rather just not mess with it if it holds. I should buy the Chilton book for this car to learn a little more about my car. Interesting that on the web you can read so much negative information about these cars. It seems that many contour owners have had many, many problems. It also seems to be mainly (not always) the six cylinder models.
I have to state again, this car has been very good and reliable during her first 200,000KM's. My late husband and I always maintained her and never let things just fall apart. Oil changed every 2000 Km...etc.....
If anyone can tell what that black metal water pipe is for, I would be grateful.
Maria
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Dec 1, 2011, 8:02 AM
Post #12 of 12
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Re: contour problem
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Don't think it is a good idea to drive around with the radiator cap off. The system needs to be pressurized, so the coolant doesn't overheat and boil out. Some designs are better at trapping air than others, but usually trapped air will cause an overheating condition.
There are procedures for refilling the coolant system on that, but most techs are using vacuum coolant lift systems to help prevent air from being trapped in the coolant system.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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