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Automotive Repair Car Troubleshooting Topics   Car Troubleshooting   Engine Troubleshooting   Engine Fault Codes   Electrical and Wiring   Transmission Problems Car Repair Topics   Car Making Noises   Car Stereo Repair   Heating or AC Issues   Motorcycles and ATVs   Tricks of the Trade   Truck Repair Advice Site Options:      Login   Sign up here! Latest Forum Post   Drive Shaft Repair I have a 2015 Chevy Traverse AWD. The fr...   2006 Toyoto Camry XLE Driver Side Electric Window Trouble Hello, Looking for a little brain help ...   Tierod end change caused some kind of leak Hello so I just took my car to the nearb...   2011 Dodge Nitro OBD scanner seems to drain battery in 10-20 minutes When I bought this car in summer 2023, a... Grounding Cable, 2017 Jeep Renegade Trailhawk The Cable that connects my negative batt... Rough Idle (Found new thing) Hi everyone. First of all sorry for bad ...     equipment hey yall. im a first year engineering st...   HELP I have a 1956 1/2 ton panel truck, 69 35...   Howdy     Just wanted to s...   ABS/Tractiob/Brake Lights on But No DTCs Hello all, Recently while driving m...

Search Auto Parts Search brake problems Sign up here!   Email This Post Auto Repair Home>> Automotive Repair>> Car Troubleshooting Guest Anonymous Poster simse7en@sympatico.ca Mar 31, 2008, 7:20 AM Post #1 of 4 (1601 views) brake problems Sign In I have a 1990 Mustang LX Coupe. It has been converted to newer SN95 5-lug four wheel discs with an SN95 master cylinder, 3-2 port conversion and a Ford Racing front/rear adjustable proportioning valve. Here is my problem: The brakes worked fine and consistently up until last fall when the weather started getting cooler (around zero celcius) and in this cooler weather they were sporadically getting mushy. I mean, three stoplights and they'd be fine and one they would get soft. Occassionally pumping the pedal a couple of times would firm them back up, and then on a few occassions they went to the floor with very little braking action, so I decided to take it off the road early for the winter. Yesterday, in the warm spring weather I decided to pull it out of the garage and assess what I need to get done on the car for summer. The brakes are now consistent and firm!!! It seems as though this may be weather related. Anyhow, a few people had suspected the seals or diaphrams in the master cylinder are gone and I need to replace this. (M/C is about a year old). Others suggest it may be moisture or air in the system and are telling me to bleed/flush the system. The brake fluid does appear to be dingy and dark brown rather than clear as it should be. What would you suggest? I want to make sure I have this licked so my pedal doesn't go soft on me again next fall! Thanks in advance. Tom Greenleaf Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator Mar 31, 2008, 8:18 AM Post #2 of 4 (1600 views) Re: brake problems Sign In Bleeding out brakes periodically is good maintenance and prevention for the moving hydraulic parts. That's a highly neglected area. Most brake fluids absorb moisture and need changing. Silcone high temp stuff doesn't but then any moisture just get to the bottom of things and isn't a cure for corrosion either. I store cars and have for ions. Brakes always feel funny for a while when put back in service even with storage in controlled environments, T Guest Anonymous Poster Mar 31, 2008, 9:05 AM Post #3 of 4 (1595 views) Re: brake problems Sign In Thanks Tom. I will give it a try and am going to use fluid with a higher boiling point this time. Any chance you can remove my email? Thnx. Tom Greenleaf Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator Mar 31, 2008, 9:57 AM Post #4 of 4 (1593 views) Re: brake problems Sign In It's not just boiling point! Dot 3 is probably what's called for. By about Dot 5 it's not hydroscopic (water absorbing) but does have the higher temp ratings. Ask or read labels. I would use what car calls for. What seems to happen is the rubber to polished metal bores of master cylinder, other things (combination valves) wheel cylinders (N/A for this) and rubber ring to bore inside calipers can get a corroded area. When used daily they don't build up much crust. Master cylinder really shouldn't travel to end of bore as when you bleed brakes and many will tear up the seals by just bleeding. Yours was new so should be ok. I need to do just what I'm sugessing to all of mine. All done before but should do it again - PITA but worth it. Note on moisture: You want it to absorb so it can flush out but just a couple percent moisture lowers boiling points of brake fluid to close to plain water. They do need better than that or you would lose braking when real heated up - performance driving, mountainous driving, and trailer use especialy. I've never had a problem with the temp range of plain Dot 3 but I'm easy on things, T   Email This Post   Automotive Repair     Auto Body Repair and Refinishing     Heating or AC Issues     Electrical and Wiring     Brake Systems     Car Stereo Repair Advice     General Discussions     Car Making Funny Noises     Engine Fault Codes     Engine Troubles     Exhaust Systems     Steering and Suspension     Transmission Troubles     Tricks of the Trade Automotive World     General Discussions     Antique Car Talk     Car Shows and Events     The Bargin Bin     Motor Vehicle Inspection     Car Care Tips     Traffic Tickets     Gasoline, Motor Oils, Concept Cars and Engines     Auto Insurance, Financing, Leases, Warranties Truck Repair     General Discussions     Truck Engine Repair     Truck Suspension Repair Motorcycle Repair     General Discussions     Motorcycle Engine Repair CarJunky     Open Posting     Board FAQ's     New Board Suggestions

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