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jayeffel
User
Jul 9, 2008, 1:39 PM
Post #1 of 13
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alternator repair
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1988 Olds Delta 88 Royale, 3.9l engine; alternator tested "fail" at Auto Zone, rectifier bad. Per Haynes manual and per co-workers, I can replace the diode trio (cost about $5.00 at Auto Zone) with little hassle. Appears fairly straightforward in manual.
Per Auto Zone clerk and unsolicited advice from another customer, it needs to be repaired there for @$40.00 or replaced for @$100.00. They indicated electrical knowlwdge and soldering is required; manual indicates only a few screw/bolts
Can I do this myself and save money I really don't have at present? I am not a total loss with tools!
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DrElectrics
Enthusiast
Jul 9, 2008, 2:52 PM
Post #2 of 13
(3826 views)
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Re: alternator repair
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rectifier and regulator repairs on alternators is childs play. Your are right, it is 2-3 screws that hold it in place. You can DIY very easily as long as you know how to pull it all apart and put it back together properly. Go for it!
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jayeffel
User
Jul 9, 2008, 2:57 PM
Post #3 of 13
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Re: alternator repair
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Thanks, would you think only diode trio, or rectifier bridge also?
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DrElectrics
Enthusiast
Jul 9, 2008, 3:12 PM
Post #4 of 13
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Re: alternator repair
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I would run with just the rectifier at 1st, The bridge should come with the rectifier anyways.
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jayeffel
User
Jul 10, 2008, 12:53 PM
Post #5 of 13
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Re: alternator repair
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I obtained a diode trio from Auto Zone and began to replace the diode. I separated the two halves of the alternator and the inside does not look like the drawings in Haynes Manual. I cannot figure how to remove the stator wiring. There were three screws holding the alternator halves together, the manual depicts four. The Alternator is a Delco Remy with "18R" molded into the case. No other marking other than Bat noticed on the stator half. On the rotor markings show a number ( i cannot read it), then 105A; below is I think 7208 then 12V then Neg. I take this means 12 volt, negative ground, 105 Amp.
When separating the halves the brushes and springs popped out , not out of the alternator (yet) but out of place. I cannot locate or identify any piece looking like the diode trio I bought. Is it possible I have a "non repairable" alternator and need to obtain a new or rebuilt one?
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jul 10, 2008, 1:32 PM
Post #6 of 13
(3813 views)
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Re: alternator repair
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It's repairable. Brushes generally are held in with just the wire of a paperclip (does anyone remember the last time a paperclip was actually used for paper?) for lack of better tools when set back in their place. Look for what fasteners are used for other things you may need to move or replace. Index the housing as if three long bolt hold it together it could go back together THREE ways and only one will line up the wiring to plug it back in best. If four bolts it can be four ways so mark case when taking them apart first. Same alternator may be indexed (also called 'clocked') differently for another model. We old f*arts remember having to do this when you bought one and now you don't touch them or it voids warranty
T
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jayeffel
User
Jul 10, 2008, 1:37 PM
Post #7 of 13
(3811 views)
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Re: alternator repair
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I did index the housings, and finally managed to accomplish the paperclip insertion. Cannot see anything to remove, will check more- got to go to a meeting tonight. Be back, Joel
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jayeffel
User
Jul 10, 2008, 2:06 PM
Post #8 of 13
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Re: alternator repair
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I did find a way! A plastic cover removal (afraid it would break off but didn't) revealed three solder joints; a copper head for each of the three wires to the stator. If I an now find my soldering stuff!
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jayeffel
User
Jul 10, 2008, 6:50 PM
Post #9 of 13
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Re: alternator repair
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What are the chances that an alternator not intended for this vehicle was put on sometime? Mounting holes line up and fits space; but all manual pictures and descriptions, and mechanic advice don't match what I see.
I did manage to break off one tab (accidentally) connecting the the stator wires to the alternator-- solder okay? I might just have top bite the bullet and get a new or rebuilt alternator, how can I tell if it is the correct one for the car if this one is not correct?
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DrElectrics
Enthusiast
Jul 10, 2008, 6:59 PM
Post #10 of 13
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Re: alternator repair
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Delco Remy have an "SI" series, eg 10SI, 25SI and so on. A lot of delco ALT's will mount in place of one another, so you may have a genuine delco replacing a "delco" styled ALT. If the shoe fits, it works, most of the time people just change to pulley to make it fit. Soldering the stator is a very delicate operation. After all your hard work, I am sorry to say, it is trial and error with this one. Put it in, start it up and see if it is charging. The worst thing in the world that may happend is either a short or worst case reverse polarity from the diodes blowing up. You can try your handywork or spend the money on a rebuild or new one.
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flgmtech1
User
Jul 11, 2008, 6:19 AM
Post #11 of 13
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Re: alternator repair
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The reapir of the atlernator is "childs play" for people who have worked around them, for your first time it can be a bit of a challenge but not out of the question, the problem even the dealership had when we rebuilt or repaired alternators and wiper motors were that nopt every tech bought quality soldering irons, and the worst part of your repair could be when you place an iron that is way to hot and ruins the component you are soldering, this happened allot with voltage regulators we had to solder into palce,
I recommend a clean connection flux and minimal solder, enough to hold and complete the circuit, but not so much as to be big enough to apt to break off due to the size.
Always mark the outside of the case, and if you are inside, get a rebuild kit, replace the regulator and the brushes, do it right the first time or you may be doing it again.
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jayeffel
User
Jul 13, 2008, 9:20 AM
Post #12 of 13
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Re: alternator repair
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I decided that despite the cost, the best avenue for me was to replace with a rebuilt alternator. I turned the old one in and got a rebuilt one. It does not match exactly; it looks as though the two main mounting holes are okay, but the "bat" connection is different. On the old one there was a hole straight down for a connection, on the newer one the is a terminal; same thing?
I re-checked the Haynes manual for VIN id and according to that info, the car engine was built by Buick (eighth number/letter =c) (1988 Olds Delta 88 Royale); would that change the alternator info for Advance Auto to get the correct one? I just got home from church and after changing clothes will check to see if it fits.
It is a 6 cylinder engine , with "3800" noted on top of the engine; on the engine block directly behind the alternator location is a molded in number "25535422".
(This post was edited by jayeffel on Jul 13, 2008, 9:53 AM)
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jayeffel
User
Jul 14, 2008, 1:24 PM
Post #13 of 13
(3776 views)
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Re: alternator repair
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Got it in and hooked up-and the engine starts and runs!!
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