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C_Hirchak
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May 13, 2020, 1:48 PM
Post #1 of 17
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Hey y'all. First time poster here with need of a bit of help. I've got a 1994 Lincoln Town Car that i'm working on restoring. It's already in good shape, its just the odds and ends. Take the passenger window for example. Two days into owning the car, it just stops halfway up it's track and the motor sounds like its just dying from old age or something. So cracked open the door, drilled the rivets that held the motor in place, checked the replacement motor, installed it, and still nothing.
I check the old motor and its still operational as far as I can tell, too. The new one sounds better, but it doesn't work either. So I checked the track and it seemed hard to move the window up and down when the motor is unplugged compared to the driver side window. I had to work on the driver side first because the window wouldn't go down all the way and came to find out that the window had be shattered at one point and the track and motor had been replaced since someone had already drilled or ground the rivets off of both and had used 1.5in. long bolts in place of the rivets that held the track to the door which obstructed the path of the window so it couldn't go all the way down.
I applied some grease to the track and regulator, no success. I called it a day right after that since I was over 5 hours into various car projects and still needed to drive up the street to buy replacement plastic clips for the door panel since the last people snapped or lost just about all the previous ones. Do I need to replace the track or is there something else to do. What's the scoop?
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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May 13, 2020, 2:16 PM
Post #2 of 17
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Re: Window troubles
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It sounds like you probably have a problem with the regulator. These days we usually buy the regulator and motor as a combo unit. If you haven't disconnected the glass from the regulator, you aren't going to be able to slide the window up and down. Remove the regulator entirely and then see how the glass slides in the channel.
Those bolts are supposed to be replaced with 1/4" rivets, not long bolts.
Here's one supplier but they are readily available in a lot of places.
https://www.rockauto.com/...motor+assembly,15596
I'm sure Tom will be checking in here soon as he is an old Town Car buff.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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C_Hirchak
User
May 13, 2020, 3:26 PM
Post #3 of 17
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Re: Window troubles
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Hey there, Hammer Time. Pleasure to meet you.
Tomorrow, I've gotta drill out the rivets holding the regulator in place before I can fiddle with the regulator and check how the glass is sliding in the channel When I take the regulator out what are some key signs of a malfunction that I should be looking for?
I don't have a rivet gun or set up, so it's m6 1x 16mm bolts that are destined to replace em since I've got them and the rest laying around.
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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May 13, 2020, 3:30 PM
Post #4 of 17
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Re: Window troubles
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Just look for broken or jammed up cables or broken pulleys.
If the window slides freely, just go ahead and replace the regulator. They fail all the time.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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C_Hirchak
User
May 13, 2020, 6:21 PM
Post #5 of 17
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Re: Window troubles
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I've got a feeling that that's exactly what I'm gonna have to do. I'll let you guys know, thanks.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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May 14, 2020, 4:42 AM
Post #6 of 17
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Re: Window troubles
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Hi,
Having connection slow downs to stop please bear with me. Window junk all stinks these no exception. It was messed up before the real problem is or was the hacked fix now fighting with that. No nuts and bolts you need the rivets and special gun for that size as there's no room behind most items.
The other is fur on the rubber tract would be quickly ruined by wrong lube! That crap is impossible to dupe well is the lube! U can but a drying silicone spray and just keep redoing it - weekly or as needed.
I'd be hunting down a whole good junked door all the guts if your door is still good there's one place left that will stock 1,000s of these sorry not the website yet easy for me to post.
It's OldCar(?) car something in Thompson, CT is what became of "Baker's Auto" a mile or so away once "Lincoln Only" 1961 and up now more since the cars aren't Lincolns anymore at all much newer than yours are still considered antique by 25 model years old.
Buzz names to help you find this joint I just fixed my '89 Town Car's power antennae with real new stuff and made two spares out of others with help/parts from them.
You need them I'll try to find clickable link and post it when I can. You can probably find it quicker look backwards if need be the original place burned down in Putnam, CT on Rt. 44 names archived would be Ron Baker, Steve Ouellette was last running the show think still would lead to it.
Parts (OE or cloned) are warehoused all over the US just BTW always were for the concern just name changes and location down the road.
I'll be back if I can. That would be one stop parts PLUS real live advice if you show or describe what you see going wrong with the stuff to bail you out.
No promises for exactly right now this area (near Worcester, MA) is so out of control with virus issues is all but shut down to be outside! All close areas (includes me) assorted states are minutes apart all different for anything at all always were. CT has an attitude storing stuff so where items are can be unknown.
What you will need is nasty costly is the part hydraulic rivot gun for this and other cars! Best deal and it works if room vs a Snap-On is Harbor Freight of all places!
Get rivets where you get a box price and can make mistake and drill out old ones without harming the holes or waste a weekend fixing that crap. If you can't take time for BS like that none of this never mind type of car isn't for you.
Welcome to one of my novels if this goes thru at all?
Tom
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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May 14, 2020, 4:57 AM
Post #7 of 17
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Re: Window troubles
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Found it!
Links not allowed but this is your bail out.
> https://www.ebay.com/...p2053788.m1543.l2754 <
YOU DO NOT NEED EBAY to deal with them! Search around "OldCarClearance" use the town THOMPSON, CT and you hit it with all their own info and parts. BTW they are obsolete beware of cloned stuff is a crap shoot?? Tom
> This may not show also = >  Old Car Clearance
> fixed a usual typo <
(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on May 14, 2020, 5:12 AM)
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C_Hirchak
User
May 14, 2020, 5:46 AM
Post #8 of 17
(1621 views)
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Re: Window troubles
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Pleasure to meet you, Tom. Actually i searched the harbor freight site and found a hand revit tool for $20. I will definitely invest in that if i need to, but why the absolute need, just out of curiosity? Is it so everything is absolutely secure and that buys extra time until the motors or regulators die next time? For $20 I've got no problem doing it perfect i just need to know it's worth it still.
Yeah, I read links are only allowed if it's related to the problem; exclisively articles or videos? So no ebay links if it's related usually
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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May 14, 2020, 6:20 AM
Post #9 of 17
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Re: Window troubles
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I'm back - puter is somewhat behaving. Links (I had to for this or folks could thru private messages) out of site.
This is a b*tchy repair. Same body parts for most BTW as Merc. Grand Marquis if you find stuff locally to pluck your own.
That rivet gun isn't a joke nor the common one best hydraulic one thru Snappy is about $450! Gasping for air and check on loaners stuff can't take even tiny nuts and bolts or spin blind if you mess up a nightmare.
HF one works. NAPA had box of 10 I'm not at my shop for the part/box # or size exactly is the same for a lot of this stuff.
Access holes stink but always do. Know glass to bottom rubber needs to be sticky or will pull out, glass go all crooked and ruin your attempt!
YouTube or other to show you how is great still you'll have snags not shown or damage up to wanting a whole door! A passenger's one should be possible beware door panel fasteners and or wiring harness will be different by exact model within the model year!
Those plastic clips stink can get new work well ONCE then AYOR. If you think you are ready to bump it snug and mess you'll bust things save the broken parts to fix.
Resto stuff a caliber of it? I did (done busting knuckles this bad) hide repair inside doors unseen unless there better than OE would be a no-no if seen but wouldn't.
Refresh time to do stuff!! If you think XYZ will only take a known amount of fussing at least have the space to quit when you have to and go back with yet more time.
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Plain other why these mostly and experience: Locally nobody would mess with the LIMOSINES for squat too large to fit anywhere, can't hoist at most shops are the TOWN CAR body the frame is "Panther" made to cut for aftermarket proven strength as the frame is a box beam type much easier and stronger.
So I was the sucker to work on site for a limo guy/ biz owner nobody would help him last minute high buck biz can't be delayed over stupid crap - just imagine. Great fun (I liked doing it) he even would buy whole Grand Marquis, Town Cars all clean just wrecks for the dinky parts no a moment to wait did help a lot all kinds of assorted nasty fixes so became quite familiar with the things. That's really the reason as the other car makers gave up on a workable chassis if they had one at all now just trucks for large stuff so this is the end of that declining "Land Yacht" era :-)
Tom
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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May 14, 2020, 7:28 AM
Post #11 of 17
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Re: Window troubles
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OK, I have mine in front of me. "FASTENPRO" Item # 66422. That is or was Harbor Freight. Has collection bottle if you did this all day no need. About the same as Hammer showed also came with 50 assorted rivets up to the 1/4" ones none used.
I went to *NAPA for those as "Window Regulator Rivet" box of 25 NAPA/Balkamp #770-2764 another # is #60633.
Those are plenty nasty heavy duty for this.
Don't grind off rivets rather drill the outer part till you can punch them thru do go inside door good luck to pick up outer rivet the bends is an alloy the head that snaps is magnetic so a steel. Get junk out as water must drain just slits in lower skin of door or will fill with water and really louse up your job!
*Note: A great reason for NAPA or IMO high quality is the hidden part will make like a 4 petal flower evenly out of harm's way.
Rivets cost about $12 and the whole gun set was about $20.00ish +/- what it is online, there or where a while but not ages ago I used to borrow a Snap-On just isn't a good idea with even the most friendly other shops to me said it cost them over $400! Do this all the time it would be worth it and more adaptable as I recall than what I mentioned.
These are strong dang things hold a ship together force to snap those rivets are not falling apart,
Tom
(This post was edited by Tom Greenleaf on May 14, 2020, 7:30 AM)
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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May 14, 2020, 7:40 AM
Post #12 of 17
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Re: Window troubles
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Harbor freight $20
https://www.harborfreight.com/...on-bottle-66422.html
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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May 14, 2020, 7:52 AM
Post #13 of 17
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Re: Window troubles
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Laugh - I wasn't misleading anyone - there it is still! Tom
>Want cheaper? Sign up with them get 20% off that!<
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C_Hirchak
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May 14, 2020, 12:17 PM
Post #14 of 17
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Re: Window troubles
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Yup, that's the one that I saw. I'm gonna make a mental note to stop by harbor freight next time I'm in that part of the county and pick that guy up along with a good set of drill bits for when they gotta come out.
I worked on the door again today and nothing doing. The window slid in the channel just fine and after working on the regulator with anything I could find that I thought might help breath some life back into it, I decided to just order a new regulator/motor pair and wait til it arrives.
So update to come upon installation but onto the next jobs until then. In the meantime, thanks for the assistance you guys.
(This post was edited by C_Hirchak on May 14, 2020, 12:19 PM)
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Hammer Time
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May 14, 2020, 12:42 PM
Post #15 of 17
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That will solve your problems.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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Tom Greenleaf
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May 14, 2020, 1:07 PM
Post #16 of 17
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Re: Window troubles
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It was my term to call the rubber with furry stuff that acts as dry lube. It's everywhere this and newer hidden in channels for glass. If when that wears off totally glass will stick like you glued it sometimes. Said dry spray silicone helps. If you bite the bullet and put real grease not rubber friendly it's totally over. Silicone grease usually for electric or brake parts works but all hell to remove or control smears you see.
Rivet removal this size: Any but these speaking for myself. I have some cut down drills (not whole sets) where they taper is just right to remove the aluminum/alloy AFTER you just used a punch (cheap is ok) to push in center metal is hard of those and assorted rivets. When flush with metal punch again it should fall inside door leave you maybe a ring of outer aluminum of it.
No nasty costly stuff IMO needed go get one like home centers perhaps.
Back to the rubber and I'll let you do the hunting. It's made no doubt on rolls for production use assorted things or vehicles I just don't have a clue to get new that way always took out of even other vehicles a longer bit and cut it!
I forget right now but think the regulator comes with new? Check on that.
The other snag can be a gutter with tar like stuff holding glass where it moves it on some or an isolated hole so glass doesn't just bust.
GLASS places may be a lot of help with this! Some here also do the automotive glass some don't at all. The mobile auto glass IMO is less likely to mess with too much that say "While U wait" almost speed.
Not this, it's older and they are scared to get in trouble with it, windshield yes sides and rear IDK.
Bear with me I worked alone! I also worked for area shops rare but use stuff out of my reach to own - alignment, presses and tire machines but would know how.
Just my way I would take on bull that was messing them up taking too long or a whole day for glues to dry get that out of a busy place I had the spot to just leave it till ready.
Back to the fuzzy stuff. I've probably tried to stick in felt like stuff didn't work out for realistic use my idea of a resto was it worked and could be used a lot if wanted and last not just apparently in such good shape it was.
Story continues - but I got old (how that happen IDK just does huh?) I'm tired now this crap took endless hours pay dirt is I am still counting on an 89 Town Car for primary car an 88 is beside it bought in '91 has really rare options no energy just put some crap back together it's all original otherwise.
Said why other car maker all went fubar in the early 70's didn't like crap you couldn't work with just assemblies of things sealed up can't really fix dup the stuff well myself.
See what you find can take asking around in person or a willing tech at some place what tools they use save you my zillion words can't show pics now or easily this area the stuck at home folks are burning up all forms of airwaves or fiber optic info relay stuff not meant for the use they are getting servers say so!
Tom
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