|
|
Squealing from front right wheel.
|
|
|
| |
|
|
limenuke
New User
Jul 29, 2014, 9:27 AM
Post #1 of 4
(1769 views)
|
|
Squealing from front right wheel.
|
Sign In
|
|
I drive a 2002 Honda Civic Sedan with 160k km (about 100k miles) on the odometer.
The problem:
There's a squealing coming from my front right wheel when I drive. The sound goes away if I tap or hold the brakes. Sometimes it goes away if I steer slightly to the left but comes back when I straighten my car out. Lately, I started hearing weird tire-y noises - not a periodic one, but just sometimes I hear additional friction.
My diagnosis:
The hub/bearings are bad and the brakes are touching (causing squealing) when the wheel seats itself into a bad spot on the bearing. Am I right?
Additional information:
I recently serviced and re-checked my brakes to ensure they were fine. Plenty of pad life. Not sure if rotors are slightly warped, though.
Any help?
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jul 29, 2014, 9:48 AM
Post #2 of 4
(1762 views)
|
|
Re: Squealing from front right wheel.
|
Sign In
|
|
? Brake noise can be pads themselves and sometimes need to take them out to look for cracks but thru installed caliper appear fine. Each side should look similar as well.
Warped rotors or sometimes debris can be caught between rotor and hub throw them off and again need to look. Usually you would feel that while braking or notices in odd tire wear.
Tire noise? Not sure just what you mean. Some can make more noise than other brands or if uneven wear pattern a defect or just not held in alignment,
T
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jul 29, 2014, 11:11 AM
Post #4 of 4
(1748 views)
|
|
Re: Squealing from front right wheel.
|
Sign In
|
|
Again - you may have to take calipers offffffff to check the brakes not just a glace while installed. This noise changed by using brakes is a clue that still unknown something is involved with that pressure. No kidding, pads crack and work fine but can make unreal noise of assorted types. Good time to lube up calipers while checking anyway.
Look right at stuff for things different from one side to the other. Many brakes just get pads thrown on and not a real brake job and that can easily make problems as new pads try to mate to the untouched rotor they can get super heated spots quickly - a rusty lip on outer edge in the cards too.
Also look for dust shield for brakes being too close to rotor as they can touch when turning or move with braking making more or less noise.
Bearings: Check with wheel on tight for play - none allowed. If tires are even or any question rotate them. Bad bearings are bad loooong before they have play and common is plain shift of weight of turning while driving along they'll make a growl sound more one way than the other but anything/noise exacerbated by turns or braking needs to be found.
Spin the wheels while hoisted also for bearings. Sometimes you need to retract brakes (wheel off to do) a bit so they can coast when spun by hand and hear the faint bearing on usually one side not the other or notably different.
Noises are tricky via web diagnosis even with the best YouTube type recordings it's just not like being there hearing it, feeling it and so on.
Try to find it as best you can. Sure helps if you can hoist and move wheels around fast with the right equipment - jacks and air tools help tons.
Do always take care hoisting a car for any reason and support it properly. Yup, takes time if you don't have a couple or more jacks, air or power tools.
Ahhh - level surface that is solid like concrete helps a lot too,
T
|
|
| |
|
| | |
|
Auto Repair Home
SEARCH
WHO'S 
LOG 
Drive Shaft Repair
2006 Toyoto Camry XLE Driver Side Electric Window Trouble
Grounding Cable, 2017 Jeep Renegade Trailhawk
equipment
Howdy
