Main IndexAuto Repair Home Search Posts SEARCH
POSTS
Who's Online WHO'S
ONLINE
Log in LOG
IN









Search Auto Parts

Should I trust this guy?


  Email This Post



walmartjanitor
New User

Mar 3, 2008, 11:03 AM

Post #1 of 4 (1347 views)
Should I trust this guy? Sign In

I own a 97 Ranger and ive been having alot of problems with it lately.

I stall almost everytime I make a complete stop
Terrible Gas Mileage. Ive calculated, no joke, 6-7mpg.
I get no power when I accelerate, if it kicks up to 4rpms, with the pedal all the way down I actually decelerate slowly.
Accelerating is very slow. It takes around a minute to reach 60mph when merging on the freeway.
I can barely get past 60mph, and getting it over 70 when I DO make it that far isnt possible
Lots of shaking, rattling.
Im always at around 3-5 rpms.
I have constant heat blowing out from my driver side floor.
And my brakes arent so responsive lately slamming them is no different then softly braking.

I just moved and I took it to the nearest Tuffy. I had them do a complete Diagnostic on it. I sat and waited for 3 hours and during which time watched as he weaseled another guy out of some money (or so I believe).

Anyway, he told me I needed a Major Tune Up with a Fuel Injection Service. And totaled it out at $325. Does this sound right? If so is it a reasonable price? Or should I take my business elsewhere?


SPECS
------
1997
Ford
Ranger Splash
V6/4.0
167000miles


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Mar 4, 2008, 3:28 AM

Post #2 of 4 (1342 views)
Re: Should I trust this guy? Sign In

The full service tune-up at that many miles if it's been a while would be called for and I would expect that price or so.

What I noticed is you said the floor heated up!! The behavior would be consistant with an exhaust blockage - usually a cat/conv plugged up.

I'd be a little old fashioned and vacuum test the engine. Does your user name indicate you work for WallyWorld? I think you can get a vacuum gauge and a vacuum "T" there for cheap and test this yourself.

Find a vacuum port that is primary intake manifold vacuum and hook up with the "T" so that you are reading the vacuum and the device(s) it would be used for are still getting that info. You are just peeking in on it. At idle speed if all is well (running smooth) then you will see about 18Hg of vacuum. With no load on engine, raise the idle to about 2,000 and it should be the same and if much lower it is a strong indicator of an exhaust restriction. Vehicles with the problem can rev up without load but feel like they are going up hill with headwind towing a motorhome! I've seen pipes and exhaust glow in the dark from the heat!

The common weak link is converters and I guess you can forgive them with the miles but many can last much longer and usually fail because of another neglected problem.

You won't like the price of converters so I suggest being sure before going there. There are tests to isolate if it is just those to pin it down. What would you like to do?

T

T



walmartjanitor
New User

Mar 4, 2008, 9:43 AM

Post #3 of 4 (1337 views)
Re: Should I trust this guy? Sign In

Update:
Last night I replaced my plugs and wires. I took it for a test drive and Im getting MUCH better power. I made it 65 with no trouble, within about a mile I had slowly but surely gone from 65 to 85. That hasnt happened in a long time. Though my exaust is still sputtering at idle, not an even flow. I purchased a PCV Valve, and a Fuel Filter but have not installed it. Im not sure exactly where to find the PCV. Any idea of where its at under the hood? i know its either on or around the Throttle Body. With the Fuel Filter, Im nervous about doing it myslef, the current one is 11 years old, and Im afriad of breaking the lines that are attached to it. According to the shop, I still need fuel injection work. Will this help cure my Bad Mileage problem? Or is this something that the new Filter might help?

And a side note, After the new wires and plugs were put on, somehow, I dont get it, but my brakes are MUCH more responsive.

In the summer time, when Im stopped in say a drive thru or a traffic jam, any place that my truck has that constant stop and go, or even sometimes when just idle, it hums. Sounds like someone with a Sythesizer sitting in my engine holding a note. I had an assumption to it being a vacuum leak, but Ive never been sure. It never really gave me much trouble so i just ignored it.

As far as my heater goes, It ALWAYS blows out super hot heat. Like i said even if my heater is in the OFF position. I figured since it was only by my feet on the driver side that it was just a broken heater door or something of the sort. But then again, even if im at the coolest temp setting possible, the heat coming out is so hot, if you put your hand up to the vent it literally burns. Not too much, but enough that you notice something isnt right. It only seems to constantly blow the heat out near my feet if Im above 60mph. Basically I only feel that heat on the freeway. But I spend nearly 2-3hours a day on the freeway, so to me, its pretty much always.

Ha no, I dont work at WalMart, it was a nickname I came up with as a teenager thinking it was funny and i guess it just kinda stuck. So no discounts for me. Pretty unfortunate right about now...


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Mar 4, 2008, 10:03 AM

Post #4 of 4 (1334 views)
Re: Should I trust this guy? Sign In

Your MPGs will improve a lot right now. Try some Chevron's Techron fuel injection cleaner. It is better as prevention than cure but worth a try. If you don't notice the difference in perhaps 1/3 of a tank of gas then the injectors probably do need the service done for the stumble.

Brakes feel better probably because vacuum source is now better.

Noise: It may be a vacuum leak and that may have something to do with the heat ?? Not sure. Check for belt and pulley noises too.

Fuel filter: It could be one of two different types for connections. They have a spring lock type and one with a plastic clip that you pry and pull out - using a new ones provided for the new. The spring type requires a tool for those. You decide either way if you want to do that. I doubt it's causing the problems you indicate at the moment but it should be changed.

The sooner you correct the sputter the better as that is hard on converters! That could also be a vacuum leak AND what you are hearing - try to listen under the hood for it,

T







  Email This Post
 
 


Feed Button




Search for (options) Privacy Sitemap