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eddie haskell
New User
Jan 12, 2008, 6:12 PM
Post #1 of 8
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Help with brake problem
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I have a 2004 F-150 that is experiencing intermittent brake problems. The right rear wheel will get to the point of smoking.....you can feel it grabbing too. Other times, it seems fine. I have pulled the wheel, thinking it might be in the parking break, but that appears fine. The caliber plunger (is that what its called??) is extended out, but I don't know if that is any indication of anything or not. It seems to be the caliber is not releasing the hydraulic pressure on the pads. Does that sound right? Would a new caliber remedy my problem?
Thank you 
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dave284
Enthusiast
/ Moderator
Jan 12, 2008, 9:35 PM
Post #2 of 8
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Re: Help with brake problem
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You're on the right track,another sign of a sticking caliber is crystalizing thats a mirror-like shine on the rotor and pad.The brake hose to the caliber could cause the same problem. And if you saw smoke there is a chance that the rotor and /or wheel bearing might be damaged from the heat too.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jan 13, 2008, 2:49 AM
Post #3 of 8
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Re: Help with brake problem
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To add: If the PISTON(s) in a caliper are extended it indicates pads and or rotors are worn thin and the piston is compensating for that. At some point they can "cock" a tad and don't retract. The only force to retract them is the rubber seal unseen and it's not that powerful. Various ways to make a parking brake are a problem also. Does this one use the caliper or a small drum brake inside the rotor - also unseen without removing the caliper and rotor. Follow where cable goes to see what is the parking brake.
Calipers can also stick from corrosion, usually moisture that gets in thru the dust/water seal and very problematic if they are submerged in water for any reason - launching boats, floods or just plain driving thru deep water is a killer for brakes,
T
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way2old
Veteran
/ Moderator
Jan 13, 2008, 9:03 AM
Post #4 of 8
(2311 views)
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Re: Help with brake problem
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If you open the bleeder and the piston can be pushed in easily, more than likely it is the brake hose that has collapsed internally. (not real likely on 2004 but possible) If the piston is hard to push in, the caliper is the problem.
Being way2old is why I need help from younger minds
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eddie haskell
New User
Jan 13, 2008, 9:59 AM
Post #5 of 8
(2308 views)
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Re: Help with brake problem
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Yes...I live in the Pacific Northwest, with a lot of rain, some snow, and boat launching. I rinse after each use, and try not to put my tires in the water, but at times a wave will roll up onto the ramp, to the depth on my axle 
I find a lot of rust, debris, inside the drum, but the emergency brake shoes showed no wear. I also noticed a shine to the disk pad, and it did in fact seem to round a bit (wear) on the ends of the disk, one end more so...that I found odd, thinking wear should be even through out the whole pad surface.
Thank you guys....much appreciated
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jan 13, 2008, 10:19 AM
Post #6 of 8
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Re: Help with brake problem
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Boat launching: Drum brakes can handle being submerged better with the wheel cylinder rather than caliper. Of course they don't dry out so brakes don't work at all for a while. Splashing isn't so bad. The brakes and air under the dust seals is warm and when cooled it sucks in the water - salt is much worse. Same bull with the trailer bearings, lighting and all that stuff.
I miss boating sometimes even with all the headaches,
T
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eddie haskell
New User
Jan 13, 2008, 6:46 PM
Post #7 of 8
(2300 views)
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Re: Help with brake problem
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Hey Tom....I have a Boston Whaler too ( I saw your location ).
I believe I got er fixed 
What I did was to pull everything apart at the wheel. Put the caliper on a bench and had to use a C clamp to move the piston back in....dang it was hard!
I knew I was on the right track with that. I would give it a good soak of penetrating solution, then hook her back up to the brake line (hydraulic) start up the engine and pumped the brake a few times to get the piston to move out. Repeated till I had less resistance in depressing the piston (moving back in). After I felt I had "freed" up the movement, I popped it out and boy, what a bunch of gunk got inside
Cleaned her good, reassembled, filled MC and bled lines. Test drove, checked for leaks, etc, and good to go....
Thanks all!
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jan 13, 2008, 9:40 PM
Post #8 of 8
(2292 views)
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Re: Help with brake problem
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BACK!! Did you say you put the caliper in penetrating fluid!!?? NO! The rubber parts won't take oils only brake fluid products or the rubber will swell and fail. If you used a non rubber friendly solvent that caliper must be removed and replaced NOW! Correct me guys if I'm wrong but rubber brake parts historically are not tolerant of oil based products,
T
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