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General Guidelines For ABS Brake Bleeding?


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dmac0923
Enthusiast

Nov 7, 2008, 11:45 AM

Post #1 of 5 (1995 views)
General Guidelines For ABS Brake Bleeding? Sign In

   
I know it seems like im constantly doing something with brakes and with the complex and expensive ABS system components it would be nice to know when to do what in regards to bleeding... My biggest fear is sending a giant air bubble into my ABS controll module and needing to take it to a place to use a scan tool to bleed it and turn a simple caliper swap into a week worth of down time for the vehicle.


i guess my main question is which parts of the braking system when changed would require you to have to bleed the ABS controller?
__________________________________________________
2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee
2002 Ford Ranger
2004 Toyota Corolla
1969 Ford Mustang Mach 1


Loren Champlain Sr
Veteran / Moderator
Loren Champlain Sr profile image

Nov 7, 2008, 7:19 PM

Post #2 of 5 (1987 views)
Re: General Guidelines For ABS Brake Bleeding? Sign In

If you breach the hydraulic system, you'll need to bleed it. Prior to ABS, you'd start with the furthest wheel from the master cylinder, which would be LR, then RR, then, RF and finally, LF. Now, there is a specific pattern, which eludes me, right now. I use a small suction ball (or your wife's turkey baster..which is not a good idea) to remove as much old fluid from the master as possible, then fill with new fluid prior to bleeding so that you aren't running any more than neccessary the old fluid thru the ABS system. If no one jumps in with bleeding pattern, you are sure to find it on line or at your local library.
Loren
SW Washington


dmac0923
Enthusiast

Nov 8, 2008, 8:21 AM

Post #3 of 5 (1982 views)
Re: General Guidelines For ABS Brake Bleeding? Sign In

see now i guess ive just been lucky. ive changed calipers front and rear on various ABS models and followed the old school bleeding pattern RR,LR,RF,LF. and never had any problems.

i obviously knew if an ABS controller or other component had went bad and had to be replaced needed to be bleed.

but say if you need to replace the master cylinder? obviously you bench bleed it first, but will still have to bleed the system. Since the MC is higher in height and in the system itself, do you risk pushing an air bubble into the ABS controller?
__________________________________________________
2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee
2002 Ford Ranger
2004 Toyota Corolla
1969 Ford Mustang Mach 1


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Nov 8, 2008, 8:40 AM

Post #4 of 5 (1980 views)
Re: General Guidelines For ABS Brake Bleeding? Sign In

My trick with master cylinders: Bench bleed them of course. Then you fumble quickly switching bleed lines or plugs to the vehicle's lines.

The trick that has worked for me 100% (famous last words) is to have preset parking brake and have hit brake pedal and to have FR wheel off---- all before you start the job. When you've done you best installing new/replacement master you still just know there's some air in the lines up top there so before you touch the service brake pedal - release the parking brake (fluid - not much but enough usually) returns to master. Then just push back the RF caliper (piston(s)) just enough to push the bubble back up to reservoir and the system is ready to bleed out for all clean now without allowing air in.

In essence - any order if no air is in system is ok. Takes a good helper which I use mostly or non ABS systems usually will gravity bleed out - some fussy some not even within like models?? Fussy ones go clear tube to fluid catch container at bleeder still disallowing air,

T



Loren Champlain Sr
Veteran / Moderator
Loren Champlain Sr profile image

Nov 8, 2008, 11:04 AM

Post #5 of 5 (1974 views)
Re: General Guidelines For ABS Brake Bleeding? Sign In

Tom; Haven't heard the trick of pushing the RF piston in, to force any remaining air into the m/c reservoir. What a great idea! I'm gonna remember that one. Like you said, bench bleeding works 99.9% of the time. I'll usually use a helper, after the master has been bench bled and installed, to gently push on the pedal as I open each line, individually, to finish the operation. Of course, this won't work if any air is downstream from the master. That's where your trick will come in very handy! Thanks.
Loren
SW Washington






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