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Brakes leaking, help 96 neon


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naz_pierce
New User

Dec 7, 2008, 7:49 PM

Post #1 of 2 (1293 views)
Brakes leaking, help 96 neon Sign In

I have a 1996 Dodge Neon It's a 2.0 I believe with 129,000 miles on it. It was working fine, till I decided to pull out today. The brake pedal had to go all the way down to the floor to work. I had no resistance till I hit the floor. I opened the hood and noticed I had no brake fluid, so I put some in and checked for leaks. I pumped the brakes a few times and it looks like it's spraying/leaking on my passengers side. The pedal still goes to the floor and doesn't have any resistance still. Anyone have any ideas? I would like to fix this myself if possible, as a mechanic but might be pricey.


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Dec 7, 2008, 10:32 PM

Post #2 of 2 (1289 views)
Re: Brakes leaking, help 96 neon Sign In

Ok: It's actively leaking so you'll find it. Note that brake fluid is water soluable and will clean right off with water if somehow it's difficult to locate - let water dry and look again for fluid if need be. Brake fluid can harm paint so watch out for that.
Guess of course as I'm not looking myself but a weak link would be the flex hose to that caliper. Alone that woudn't be so hard to just replace but it really calls for both if one is bad.

Trouble with many of these is they will give you a real hard time to separate from the metal line mount on body to replace. All doable but you may need to replace a section of metal line there PROPERLY which is still doable but you'll need a tubing cutter and flaring tool - still reasonable if you are handy.

No matter what is leaking, replace in pairs is best if you find caliper leaking - do both. Those don't usually "spray" as you said.

Next problem will be to get bleeders to behave when this is done and those may not cooperate. Put PB (penetrating oil) on the items that look tricky now and go get your parts (another vehicle please)

It's just fussy with lines and flare nuts (specific flare nut wrenches needed) if you are up to the job. If rusted line has blown out then replace whole section where rusted to good line where "unions" can be installed.

Just make sure any replaced line is in original locations so as not to rub or vibrate as originals.

Good luck,

T







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