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wppw@megalink.net
Mar 12, 2007, 3:11 PM
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93 acclaim won't run
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My acclaim has quit on the road before and it always seemed to be the fuel pump. When it got ready it would start. This time it will not start, I checked for spark at the plugs and no spark. I then checked for spark at the coil. no spark. I checked the timing belt it was turning and had all of its teeth. I checked the distributor and the rotor is turning. I have noticed that the fuel pump does not come on when I turn the key to the run position.
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DanD
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Mar 13, 2007, 10:09 AM
Post #2 of 10
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Re: 93 acclaim won't run
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Do you have a check engine or power loss light when you first turn the ignition on? It should come on for a couple, three seconds and then go off.
Dan.
Canadian "EH"
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wppw@megalink.net
Mar 13, 2007, 4:46 PM
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Re: 93 acclaim won't run
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DanD, The check engine light comes on for two or three seconds then gives me the codes 12,11,35. I hope this helps you in helping me. Thank you for responding to my problem.
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steve01832
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Mar 13, 2007, 5:18 PM
Post #4 of 10
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Re: 93 acclaim won't run
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The code 11 is no tach signal to the control module. Start with changing the pickup in the distributor. It sits just under the cap, is black, and has a 3 wire connector on it.
Steve
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wppw@megalink.net
Mar 13, 2007, 6:09 PM
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Re: 93 acclaim won't run
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I have a 94 Dodge with a 2.5 that is being used ever day so I took the pickup and rotor and put them in the 93 acclaim and it did not start. I did not hear the fuel pump either.
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DanD
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Mar 14, 2007, 5:46 AM
Post #6 of 10
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Re: 93 acclaim won't run
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You said.
The check engine light comes on for two or three seconds then gives me the codes 12,11,35. It does this without cycling the key three times? If so that is kind of strange in itself. Without cycling the key the light should go out and stay out.
We’ll leave that alone until you get back to us on this?
This is what should happen when you turn the ignition on and then through to the start position. As far as the basic ignition system and fuel pump circuit are concerned anyway.
Ignition on to run position, power from the ignition switch is applied to the dark blue wire of the ASD (auto shut down) relay and the fuel pump relay. Both of these relays will also have a constant battery power on the red/white wires.
The computer is also woken up at this time and it applies ground to the dark blue/yellow wires of both relays.
Both relays will close (turn on) and send power to the different units some of which are; the fuel injector, alternator’s field circuit and the ignition coil, from the ASD on the dark green/orange wire. From the fuel pump relay on the dark green/black, the fuel pump and the O2 sensor’s heater’s circuit.
At this point if you do not continue to turn the ignition to the start position and begin cranking the engine; the computer will not see a RPM signal from the pick up coil and in turn will remove the ground to both relays shutting them both off.
That’s the two or three seconds that you see the check engine light on, commonly called the fuel pump prime cycle.
Another way to look at it is, when you turn the ignition on and then continue to the start position and begin cranking the engine. The distributor’s pick up coil should send a RPM signal to the computer; the computer sees this RPM and leaves both the ASD and the fuel pump relays on and the engine starts or should if all else is ok.
So get your test light out and start checking for powers to the different units with the ignition switch in the different positions.
There is a splice connection inside the wiring harness where four or five branches of the dark blue wire are stamp welded together and taped. We use to have problems with this splice becoming corroded to the point the splice would break apart shutting down portions of the circuit. To find the splice was never exact science but usually relatively close to guess what, yep the battery, the biggest corrosion generator under the hood. Now don’t go blindly looking for this one particular splice; it’s just one place where a possible corrosion problem may be found. Check every and any connection inside the harness that just uses tape for insulation. Also the connections that lead into the relays are also just open connectors that corrode easily.
One last thing, use a test light not a voltmeter to check for these powers. If there is a corrosion problem that only one or two strands of wire are still making a connection, a voltmeter may still show you voltage; where a test light adds load to the circuit and will either not light the bulb or the bulb will be very dim.
Dan.
Canadian "EH"
(This post was edited by DanD on Mar 14, 2007, 6:00 AM)
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wppw@megalink.net
Mar 14, 2007, 4:18 PM
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Re: 93 acclaim won't run
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The check engine light gave me the codes when I turnedthe switch on and did not cycle it three times which surprized me. I did the test light test on the ASD and Fuel pump relays. Both the blue and red/white wires on both relays tested positive for power in run and start positions. The blue wire tested positive at the computer with the key in run position. The gray connector, that goes toward the starter/O2/speed sensor, the blue wire tested positive for power. I took the tape and corragated wire covering off below gray connector which had the positive wire to the starer in with it. After doing that I DID NOT have a check engine light. I had to give up for now and with rain and or snow tomorrow I may not get back to the car till Monday. Thanks for the help.
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DanD
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Mar 14, 2007, 5:52 PM
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Re: 93 acclaim won't run
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With you disturbing the wiring harness sounds like you’re getting closer to the problem; now that the check engine light has changed operation.
Don’t give up and follow through with the harness inspection.
Dan.
Canadian "EH"
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wppw@megalink.net
Mar 29, 2007, 5:15 PM
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Re: 93 acclaim won't run
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Thanks for all the help. I did all the tests and put some thought into what you wrote. I did some backwards tests, like the computer would turn on the ground to the relays for about 2 seconds. So I took the positive cable off the post and hooked the test light to it put the other end in the relay wire that would be grounded when I put the positive cable on the post and it showed me that it was working. I don't know what I did but when I took the positive cable off and put it back on there was some clicking and other sounds which make me think that maybe it would start and IT DID. I don't know that I fixed anything, but it is runing right now. Thanks, Bill
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DanD
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Mar 29, 2007, 5:30 PM
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Re: 93 acclaim won't run
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Almost defiantly a connection problem; it’s good that the car is running but this problem may come back to haunt you in the future. Just remember where you left off and hopefully the next time this gremlin shows up you’ll be able too catch him.
Dan.
Canadian "EH"
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