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93 E350 won't start after radiator hose repair

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New User

May 12, 2017, 5:04 PM

Post #1 of 2 (684 views)
93 E350 won't start after radiator hose repair Sign In

I have a 93 Ford E350 Econoline van, it's a used Ryder van. 7.5L gas, about 160k miles. Changed the oil, then it dropped some radiator fluid. Found the leaky hose and fixed it. When I started the van again to make sure the hose was fixed it ran for a couple minutes and then died with absolutely no warning. I started it right back up, it ran for another few minutes and then died with no warning again. Repeated that several times, the van would mostly run for 2 or 3 minutes before abruptly dying. Now it won't start at all. It cranks but won't start. I've replaced the spark plugs, wires, coil, distributor, and ignition module and also checked the fuses. New fuel and oil filters. I can smell gas when it cranks and can here the fuel pump. Nothing makes any difference. What would make it go from running fine, to stalling with no warning, to not even starting? All after the radiator hose blew?

Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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May 12, 2017, 5:27 PM

Post #2 of 2 (680 views)
Re: 93 E350 won't start after radiator hose repair Sign In

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.


We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.

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