Main IndexAuto Repair Home Search Posts SEARCH
POSTS
Who's Online WHO'S
ONLINE
Log in LOG
IN









Search Auto Parts

202 blue motor oil pump rattle


  Email This Post



lee73
Anonymous Poster
jessicasadlier@hotmail.com

Jan 10, 2009, 12:56 AM

Post #1 of 7 (2853 views)
202 blue motor oil pump rattle Sign In

I have just finnished an oil and oil filter change on my 80 mod 202 blue motor. upon start up a loud rattle sound was coming from the oil pump area. this noise has never been present before, i ran the engine for no longer than 15 seconds and am too worried to try again. correct filter was used and a 20/60 weigh oil as the motor has 214000kms. Can anyone help?


Loren Champlain Sr
Veteran / Moderator
Loren Champlain Sr profile image

Jan 10, 2009, 1:22 AM

Post #2 of 7 (2848 views)
Re: 202 blue motor oil pump rattle Sign In

You should always fill the filter with oil before installing. 20/60 is awflully heavy oil. Do you live in a hot climate?
Check your owner's manual for the recommended viscosity. Don't think I've ever heard an oil pump rattle. If it's a chain driven engine, many use a timing chain tensioner that is operated by oil pressure. Could be chain rattle? Unsure what a 202 blue motor is.
Loren
SW Washington


Guest
Anonymous Poster

Jan 10, 2009, 12:23 PM

Post #3 of 7 (2842 views)
Re: 202 blue motor oil pump rattle Sign In

thankyou for your reply, a 202 blue motor is a 3.3L inline six cyl produced in Australia by GM as General motors Holden, the oil pump is a gear driven unit, with a pressure relief valve. do you think it possible that the 60 weight oil could cause the valve to operate in turn causeing the rattle. Yes it is summer here now and temps are 30+. i am going to change oil again today to 20/50, fingers crossed.


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Jan 10, 2009, 12:38 PM

Post #4 of 7 (2838 views)
Re: 202 blue motor oil pump rattle Sign In

Poking nose in here: Not sure if AU viscosity ratings are same as SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) for here but both the #s you mention would be considered VERY thick oil for what I'm used to. 30+ C isn't that catastophic to need to go that far unless you are covering up a worn engine.

Filling the oil filter first on the bench really helps as after a change at start up all the oil the pump can push is going to fill the filter first and not on the the engine right away. 15 seconds is a LONG time! That would worry me as it did you.

Even this 20w/50 rated oil would work here - just slower to crank or troublesome to crank at VERY cold temps,

T



Guest
Anonymous Poster

Jan 10, 2009, 1:54 PM

Post #5 of 7 (2832 views)
Re: 202 blue motor oil pump rattle Sign In

Thankyou for your reply, i have just changed the oil to the 50 weight + new filter. i did not pre fill the previous filter with oil and unfortunately i think i have damaged a bottom end bearing. the sound resembles tapping on sump[ hollow deep tin sound ] and gets louder and faster proportionate to RPMs, does this diagnosis sound true? Our oils over here are too SAE rated, i used the 60w oil due to the age of the motor and slow leaking rear main seal. but that now seems the least of my problems.


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Jan 10, 2009, 4:36 PM

Post #6 of 7 (2825 views)
Re: 202 blue motor oil pump rattle Sign In

Arggh - wish you had pre-filled the filterUnsure

* TMK the near universal way oil is distributed throughout an engine that has an oil pump and filter is to send it along near equally to both filter and on to engine's most important bearings first. The flow will go the path of least resistance and if an empty oil filter then filling it is the first path. If that's full then on to main bearings which leak at a prescribed rate slinging some oil about and on up to top of engine for gravity return to oil pan to start all over again.

When the main beaings that get oil pressure leak down too fast as with much wear they may sling off more oil than the pump can keep up with and the noise of "rocks knocking each other in a pail" type sound is heard. Rear main seals will fail either because of plain material failure or the range out of spec pounds it such that it isn't a tight seal anymore. Most will allow a drop of oil to seep thru if only to keep it lubed and lasting but a very, very slow rate. A new rear main wouldn't last long if range of wobble beat it back too much and leaks there are tell-tale of worn main crankshaft bearings - IMO.

Allowing the knock which is very much like being OUT OF OIL can quickly exaserbate the situation and a sequence of serious engine damage would likely occur needing the real repair or the demise of that engine as not cost effective to repair at some point.

The more you try with it making noise the worse it's getting. This may need a professiona's ear to suggest whether it's time to fix right now or give up. The heavy oil trick is just a coverup of a real problem that might have won the battle now.

I can't be certain of that but it's in line with my experiences with assorted worn out engines over the years,

T



Guest
Anonymous Poster

Jan 10, 2009, 6:42 PM

Post #7 of 7 (2818 views)
Re: 202 blue motor oil pump rattle Sign In

thankyou to Tom and Loren, a great site with questions informatively answered, unfortunately no happy ending this time. A quick look around see's a remanufactured long motor costing $2000AU or approx $1400A [fitted] oh well, time to see the mechanic, thanks again, hope to make contact again under better circumstances. Lee73 over and out.






  Email This Post
 
 


Feed Button




Search for (options) Privacy Sitemap