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2010 Toyota Corolla Won't Stay Running
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speed
User
Mar 6, 2013, 4:38 PM
Post #26 of 28
(2574 views)
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Re: 2010 Toyota Corolla Won't Stay Running
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You are wrong about voltage drop. A voltage drop is measure of the difference in potential(viltafe) between 2 points. The wire from the battery to the positive terminal on the alternator should have very little voltage drop so when done properly from battery positive to that bolt you will get a reading of near 0 volts. If you have a reading higher than that say a reading of 3 volts that means there is a load between the battery post and the alternator post that is dropping(using) 3volts before the 12 volts reaches the alt. with a drop test you have no current flow if it is open like ds said you will see a reading of 12 volts indicating that somewhere along that wire you lost all 12 volts. When you measured the 12 volts before replacing the fuse that was because all your voltage was not reacing the alt. After you replaced the fuse you read low because all the voltage was reaching the alt.
GM ASEP 26 SCC Milford ASE certified in Brakes and Electrical on Thursday April 5th 2012
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Mar 6, 2013, 5:41 PM
Post #27 of 28
(2569 views)
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Re: 2010 Toyota Corolla Won't Stay Running
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I wonder what took out the fuses... Something your not telling us? Did you reverse the jumper leads or battery cables by accident?
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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ghamilton
User
Mar 7, 2013, 3:33 AM
Post #28 of 28
(2557 views)
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Re: 2010 Toyota Corolla Won't Stay Running
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Yeah, speed, I may have worded it wrong. What I meant was just like you said. I should have measured basically zero volts, but I actually measured 11.5 volts, so I had an open between the battery's positive terminal and the positive output terminal of the alternator. Once I replaced the fusible link, it measured 0.25 volts.
DS, I guess I did leave that out, but basically because I do not know for sure if the car was in fact jumped backwards, but what I do know is that I got a call at work saying the car would not start and I told my wife I would work on it in the morning as I work night shift. In the morning, my son said he and his friend tried to jump it and they heard a horn sound for a second when they first tried to jump it. My son's friend's grandmother and my wife were there too. That morning, my son said he found the light switch in the position where the head lights do not turn off by themselves. So even though my son says he is sure he put the red jumper cable on the positive terminal of the battery, he did not look at how the cables were attached to the car giving the jump which is where they were probably reversed.
Reading on the internet, when the 120A alternator fuse blows, it is usually because the battery got jumped backwards.
Anyway, I pushed down on the fuse block where fuse 17 was and heard a clicking noise, then I got normal voltage readings on both sides of that fuse whereas earlier I was getting less than 1 volt on both sides. I then drove the car at 10-20 mph to Auto Zone, got them to pull the codes which showed something about throttle actuator motor which sounds pretty much like electronic throttle control system to me. I got him to clear the codes which cleared the check engine light, VSC off, traction control, and battery charging light. After that when I started the car it was normal, so I guess with all these codes, the computer would not let the car drive normal speed.
I got off lucky and did not have to go to the dealer. Hopefully this problem won't rear its ugly head again. Thanks for ya'lls help. Praise the Lord!!
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