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2010 Honda Accord Won't Start
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snootchiebootchies
New User
Mar 23, 2015, 2:03 PM
Post #1 of 4
(1630 views)
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2010 Honda Accord Won't Start
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Hi everyone, I'm a first time poster looking for some help. My car has always run fine but yesterday, after stopping for gas, my car would not start. My headlights and stereo and interior dash lights all worked so I didn't think it was the battery so I called for a tow. The tow truck operator provided me a boost anyway and it started and I was able to drive home. Today, I tested my battery with my multimeter and it reads 12.3 V. So that seems ok. But when I try starting my car, the multimeter reading dives down to 3 or 4 volts and the car again will not start. Is it just a simple matter of replacing a battery? Doesn't the 12.3 V reading on my multimeter mean my battery is ok? Could it be something else? I should also say that my car is 4.5 years old and have never changed the battery so I realize my battery just may need replacing. I live in a dry cold climate in Canada and my previous batteries have always lasted 6 to 7 years. I just want to make sure it's not something else. Any insights greatly appreciated.
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Mar 23, 2015, 2:29 PM
Post #2 of 4
(1623 views)
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Re: 2010 Honda Accord Won't Start
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12.3 V is discharged battery. You should have it charged and tested. Also make sure that your battery connections are clean. It is a good possibility that your going to need a new battery. Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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snootchiebootchies
New User
Mar 23, 2015, 4:14 PM
Post #3 of 4
(1612 views)
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Re: 2010 Honda Accord Won't Start
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Thanks for your help, Discretesignals. I thought 12.3 V means it's a good battery! I'll go out and buy a new battery tonight.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Mar 24, 2015, 5:40 AM
Post #4 of 4
(1594 views)
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Re: 2010 Honda Accord Won't Start
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You said volts dropped 3-4V while trying to start which is way too much. Keep in mind volts alone are just "push" if you will not "power" a battery can do and deliver to crank and engine. Common somewhat for the model year for any. I probably still has original battery and that alone if you can find it's marks for it's age is a reason to begin with a new battery if not the total up front problem right now it's chances of being a problem are way up there by it's age if so, T
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