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2006 toyota corolla starter, crossed cables, fried fuses, what else?
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Sidom
Veteran
/ Moderator
Feb 17, 2013, 1:46 PM
Post #26 of 39
(5103 views)
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Re: 2006 starter
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Ok......My mistake...I misread your post and thought you had tested fuses in all the boxes.......Yea we really need to check that inside box next....
Mose inside boxes you can either get to them by laying on your back & looking under the dash, other ones are covered by a frt lower panel.....Some panels will be held on by clips or are fastened by screws....Look at it real close & if there are no bottom or front bolts/screws, the gently tug on the panel & see if it feels like it will pull off to expose the box.....
Then grab your test ligtht, turn the key into the on position & test all the fuses...
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nbs963
User
Feb 17, 2013, 1:52 PM
Post #27 of 39
(5098 views)
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Re: 2006 starter
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yes 15 amp marked am 2 blown and blew again after replaced and turn ignition
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Sidom
Veteran
/ Moderator
Feb 17, 2013, 2:09 PM
Post #28 of 39
(5094 views)
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Re: 2006 starter
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Hmmmmm....Thats a problem......Which box is it in? ......I may have to go back & reread everything......I was under the impression this car had no problems, sat for a while, cables got crossed & blew fuses, both boxes were checked & replaced blown fuse and now will not crank.....
If you have a fuse blowing as soon as the key is turned on then you have short, somewhere... My database is down at moment so while I work on this pos, what you could do, is look all the wiring harnesses over and see if there is any damage/hitting/oil saturation on any of them....anything that might be hitting metal..
If your test light is the bulb style (led style won't work), what you can do is hook the clip to batt +, touch the probe to ground to make sure the light comes on. Pull the fuse that is blowing and probe the load side of the fuse holder, if the light lights up, that would indicate a short. This is where you need to know all the items this circuit powers, so you can disconnect stuff one at a time to get the light to go out, after that you can wiggle & move the harnesses....if the light goes out or flickers, then you are in the spot where the short is....
If you are unsure on which side of the fuse holder is the load side.....hook the test light up to ground, turn the key on & probe both sides of the holder, the terminal that doesn't have power on it is the load side.....
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nbs963
User
Feb 17, 2013, 2:16 PM
Post #29 of 39
(5087 views)
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Re: 2006 starter
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Yes there was a 15amp blown in the inside fuse panel. it's marked as am2 . i replaced it and it blew again. short right?
where should i look next?
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nbs963
User
Feb 17, 2013, 2:20 PM
Post #30 of 39
(5085 views)
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Re: 2006 starter
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ok, yes you have the scene correct. i've checked all the lines once under the hood. all are encased in plastic flex conduit. i'll go a test the load side of the fuse and try to narrow it down. any idea what the am2 fuse inside fuse panel is for ?
yes car sat for a while, but wouldn't start, same thing as now, won't turn over, just a click when you turn the key, lights and windows work. when i jumped it yesterday i crossed cables. blew the 100 amp and a 10amp, maybe this 15amp that keeps blowing now. it's marked AM2. the 10amp that blew is marked ETCS, replaced it and it has not blown since.
(This post was edited by nbs963 on Feb 17, 2013, 2:31 PM)
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Sidom
Veteran
/ Moderator
Feb 17, 2013, 2:29 PM
Post #31 of 39
(5081 views)
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Re: 2006 starter
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I'm trying to pull up the specs on this right now....
My previous post tells you how to verify if there is a short....It takes a bulb style test light......If there is a short it will make the test light light up....
Do that & check the harnesses......just for the heckva it.....when the light is on, disconnect the little wire off the starter solenoid & see if that gets the test light to go out......If it does, get an ohm meter & check the reisistance between the small terminal on the starter & ground...
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nbs963
User
Feb 17, 2013, 2:44 PM
Post #32 of 39
(5077 views)
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Re: 2006 starter
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Honestly i'm not sure if my test light works, so i'm using a volt meter. Yes there's voltage going to that fuse, load side when i turn the ignition,with the wire attached to the solenoid and unattached to the solenoid. same amount of volts
i think i'm doing it right. i'll reread and check again
Ok so i reread your post, went back and checked things out again. with the wire/harness disconnected from starter, i get voltage to one side of the fuse slot of the fuse that keeps blowing, with and with out the igniton on. the other side however does seem to get voltage with or with out the ignition on.
(This post was edited by nbs963 on Feb 17, 2013, 2:59 PM)
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Sidom
Veteran
/ Moderator
Feb 17, 2013, 3:05 PM
Post #33 of 39
(5068 views)
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Re: 2006 starter
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Well a test light would be a little easier.....
There are 2 sides to every fuse holder....one side is the power side, the other side is the load side. The power side will have 12v with the fuse removed and the load side will have no power.....That is what the fuse is doing, bridging the gap.....
So if you are using a voltmeter, you would want to use the ohms but this is where a test light is better. Even with no short there will be continuity in that circuit so with a short there will be very little resistance to ground......
With a bulb style test light, if there is no short, there won't be enough current flow to light the test light.....If there is a short in that circuit, if you have the end hook up to a 12v power source, the light will come on....Then you just start disconnecting all the loads on that circuit & moving harnesses to try to get the light to go out......Short indicators will have a light & a tone.....This way if you are working with harnesses where you can't see the light, you listen for the tone to go out or cut out for a moment.....
Dig your light out & see if it works......just hook the clip to batt - & toucht the probe end to batt +...it the light is good, it will come on....Once again...it has to be a bulb style....an led test light won't work for this
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nbs963
User
Feb 17, 2013, 3:13 PM
Post #34 of 39
(5061 views)
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Re: 2006 starter
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i tried the tesp light bulb on the bat, neg to the clip and the poker to pos. got nothing. so i took it over to an outlet and clipped a piece of copper to the clip and stuck the poker in the other side and it blew the buld right outta the socket. soo.. i no longer have a test light. so to do that i'll have to replace it. it's sunday and i live far away from anywhere that's open. can i use this volt meter to keep checking?
Just to make me feel better that i didn't fry the computer, do you think it's just a simple short then? one guy on this forum says i could have potentially totaled the car by frying every modual and computer. do you think that could still be the case?
Again you'd think these newer cars would have some sort of fail safe against too much damage being done by something as simple and common as crossing the jumper cables
(This post was edited by nbs963 on Feb 17, 2013, 3:19 PM)
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Sidom
Veteran
/ Moderator
Feb 17, 2013, 3:27 PM
Post #35 of 39
(5055 views)
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Re: 2006 starter
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Ok...................
I think the best thing here would be to disconnect the little wire off the starter, put a new fuse in the holder and if it doesn't blow take the starter off & have it tested, it the fuse still blow then this is probably going to need to go to an electrical shop. (The battery needs to be disconnected before doing any electrical R&R work)
There are some expensive modules on the car, that hopefully are still ok that can still be damaged....Also there are ways you can hurt youself and I sure don't want to see that happen...
Looking for shorts isn't an easy job to begin with (personally, i hate em) and does require a pretty good understanding of DC voltage & how it works.....
It might be better to cut our losses at this point before we make it worse.......
(This post was edited by Sidom on Feb 17, 2013, 3:28 PM)
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nbs963
User
Feb 17, 2013, 3:31 PM
Post #36 of 39
(5048 views)
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Re: 2006 starter
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I agree, yes with the wire off the starter the fuse still blew. looks like i'll be taking it to a shop for some help.
Thanks very much for all of your help
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nbs963
User
Feb 26, 2013, 7:17 PM
Post #37 of 39
(5016 views)
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Re: 2006 starter
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got the car back from the mechanic today. Paid the min charge, $90 for the guy to "reset the alternator and electrical system" Not sure what he actually did but certain it was easy and something i should have been able to do here in the driveway.
Fortunately not "totaled" as somebody suggested.
anyway i imagine i'll never cross the cables again.
thanks
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Feb 27, 2013, 6:08 AM
Post #38 of 39
(5010 views)
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Re: 2006 starter
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Glad to see it was figured out. I didn't know there was a reset button on the alternator. I guess an alternator running windows operating system needs a reboot every once in a while.
Thanks for the follow up. 
Closed as solved....kinda
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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Sidom
Veteran
/ Moderator
Feb 27, 2013, 8:51 PM
Post #39 of 39
(4995 views)
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Re: 2006 starter
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Good to hear you got it up and running again....
The problem with electrical work is the repairs are almost always the easiet thing to do....The hardest thing is finding them... So if its a bad wire, shorted socket, loose terminal or even a bad module, when you point to it and say "there it is"....It always looks simple and is.
The shop I'm at has a min of an hour for cars/trucks & .5 for trailers.....If I find the problem fairly quickly and it's just a bad wire or terminal, I'll usually just repair the wire as part of the hour... Sounds like that's what happened with your car, it was an easy find & fix....
I had a Suburban a customer brought in for a short that was blowing his horn fuse. He had already taken it to another shop with no luck. I finally found the problem....The underhood light bulb was shorted internally.......Think he was happy that we found the problem & fixed his truck??????
Nope.......he was pissed & threw a fit in the parking lot.....
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