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2000 isuzu rodeo shuts off when hot and won't start untill it cools down
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ikeic
New User
Jul 10, 2009, 7:20 AM
Post #1 of 2
(3730 views)
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2000 isuzu rodeo shuts off when hot and won't start untill it cools down
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MY 2000 ISUZU RODEO WITH 120,000 MILES RUNS VERY GOOD, BUT THE ENGINE SHUTS OFF WENEVER IT GETS HOT AND THIS HAPPENS ALL THE TIME, AND I HAVE TO WAIT FROM 30MINS TO 45MINS FOR THE ENGINE TO COOL DOWN BEFORE IT CAN START AGAIN, IF THE ENGINE IS NOT COOL AND YOU TRY TO START, IT WILL JUST MAKE JIJIJIJIJI NOISE AND WON'T START.
THIS PROBLEM STARTED SINCE I CHANGED THE ENGINE AND TRANSMISSINON WITH 1999 ISUZU RODEO MODEL.
I HAVE TAKEN IT TO IZUZU DEALERSHIP AND THEY SAID THEY DID NOT FIND ANY CODE SO THEY DON'T KNOW WHAT IS WRONG, I TOOK IT TO ANOTHER MECHANIC WHO CHANGE THE CRANK SHAFT POSITION SENSOR, AND ELECTRICAL CORDINATORS BUT THE PROBLEM WAS NOT FIXED, I TOOK IT TO EMISSION TESTING AND THERE WAS NO CODES, IT PASSED EMMISION.
PLEASE HELP!!!!
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Jul 10, 2009, 7:25 AM
Post #2 of 2
(3726 views)
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Re: 2000 isuzu rodeo shuts off when hot and won't start untill it cools down
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All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.
Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.
These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.
1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.
2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.
3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.
Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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