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2000 Dodge Grand Caravan dies


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MizWildAngel
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May 28, 2012, 4:01 PM

Post #1 of 8 (2071 views)
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2000 Dodge Grand Caravan dies Sign In

I have a 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan with a 3.3L engine and 60,000 miles. This van is handicap equipped.

I drive for about an hour and it dies. It either starts cutting out then dies or it just dies. It takes about 3 hours or more to cool off and then I can drive again. The temperature guage doesnt move or go into the hot zone.

I have replaced the computer.

There was a code that came up and it said "fuel too lean" or something along that line.

Any ideas on whats wrong?


Discretesignals
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May 28, 2012, 4:43 PM

Post #2 of 8 (2036 views)
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Re: 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan dies [In reply to] Sign In

Why did you replace the computer?

Did you check for fuel pressure, injector pulse, and spark when it wouldn't restart after dying?





Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.


MizWildAngel
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May 28, 2012, 4:52 PM

Post #3 of 8 (2027 views)
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I was just starting down a list of ideas from people. One person said their car did the same thing and they replaced the computer and it fixed it so I figured I would try it.

I took it to a mechanic and that one said its not a fuel pump or fuel issue, but I have had others say it is.

I will try those things.


Discretesignals
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May 28, 2012, 5:03 PM

Post #4 of 8 (2011 views)
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When you took it to a mechanic, was the mechanic able to duplicate the concern? Why wasn't the mechanic able to figure out what was missing when the engine wouldn't start?





Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.


MizWildAngel
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May 28, 2012, 5:06 PM

Post #5 of 8 (2007 views)
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The mechanic didnt drive it long enough to get it to do the problem and when he put it on the code reader he couldnt get anything to come up. So he said he had no idea what was wrong.


Hammer Time
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May 28, 2012, 5:38 PM

Post #6 of 8 (1998 views)
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A code reader isn't going to fix it for you.


All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.



Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.




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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



nickwarner
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May 28, 2012, 7:24 PM

Post #7 of 8 (1976 views)
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Re: 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan dies [In reply to] Sign In

By mechanic you either mean a professional shop or a Cletus who claims to know a thing or two. I bet you're going the cheap route and dealing with the latter. If a shop that isn't in a barn can't figure this out you need a better one. You can throw parts at it like you did with your computer. You may get lucky, most likely won't and will still spend way more than needed.


Tom Greenleaf
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May 28, 2012, 7:54 PM

Post #8 of 8 (1969 views)
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Sorry I don't have much to add but as mentioned in first post the alterations to make this handicapped friendly almost certainly have nothing to do with the engine running or not.

Just noted that two mechanics said two different things. That it wasn't a fuel issue and another said it was - hmmm. The one who said it was -- did that tech give you a credible reason for thinking that was it? Did that tech find low fuel pressure or any clues there. Trouble with no codes now and it plain behaves in front of a given tech it's guessing unless something is clearly wrong to see like a wire rubbing or who knows?

Hammer Time's list is the approach and if you can't have or do those checks yourself then need to find a way to leave it with a willing shop to perhaps let it just sit and run with test equipment in place and quick go out and find what is missing and then there's something to chase down. I can't think of any other way to approach thisUnsure

Just tossing parts will just get expensive and Murphy's Law seems to really exist and it would be the last screw on the van that was the problem,

T
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