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1989 Mazda 626 won't start once engine is warm
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hambirg
New User
May 20, 2012, 6:58 PM
Post #1 of 2
(2442 views)
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1989 Mazda 626 won't start once engine is warm
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1989
Mazda
626
I don't know the engine size but it is not the turbo
130,000+
My ex asked me to post this question, so I hope I know enough info for you guys to help me.
The car starts when it is cold, but once he has driven and the engine has warmed up it won't start. The car doesn't die, but if he's running errands, the car starts at home, but won't start when he's trying to leave, say the store.
The problem isn't consistent, but intermittent ( a PITA regardless).
I know he did take it into a shop, but they couldn't recreate the problem. I think what they did was basically a tune-up.
My ex is wondering if this could be the mass air flow sensor, or I should say, that's what he thinks it is.
I forgot to say that the engine does crank when it does this, just won't start.
Any advice would be great, TIA.
(This post was edited by hambirg on May 20, 2012, 7:04 PM)
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
May 20, 2012, 7:17 PM
Post #2 of 2
(2433 views)
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Re: 1989 Mazda 626 won't start once engine is warm
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All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.
Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.
These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.
1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.
2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.
3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.
Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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