|
|
|
slow acceleration and then cutting out
|
|
|
| |
|
|
nat1631
New User
Sep 8, 2014, 10:47 AM
Post #1 of 3
(1583 views)
|
|
slow acceleration and then cutting out
|
Sign In
|
|
1) the car starts ( it may take one or two or three chances to get the ignition to turn and start)
2) if my foot is not on the accelerator when either tthe car is in transist or im starting the car, the engine will cut out.
3) if the engine drops below 10 revs, the car shakes and the engine will cut out.
4) when the car does start and stays above 10 revs, the engine sounds fine.
5) the engines and oil warning lights come on just before the engine cuts out.
6) the car needs to remain above 10 revs, even when stationery, to keep the engine running.
7) if the car starts first time it will go to 10 revs straight away. But if my foot is not on the accelerator then straigt afterwards the engine will cut out after 30 seconds.
8) i can hear the car struggling to stay at 10 revs if my foot is not on the acceletator.
9) after a few times of starting the car, the engine will connect with the ignition and will run without my foot on the accelerator for about over a minute before cutting out.
10) the resistance felt when I try to accelerate has been there for a couple of weeks. If i try and go above 35mph the car struggles and if i try and quickly accererlate at a roundabout the car is slow and there is resistance from the accelerator.
11) when i try and accelerate the car will get to 20 revs and then suddenly make a revving sound before going to about 40 revs very quickly. I sound like a girl racer but even though the revs go up there is still resistance on the accelerator to go faster than 35-40 mph.
12) water comes into the car via the sunroof on the passenger side and goes only into the front and back passenger footwells.
13) the car is a 1997 Citoren Saxo (automatic).
14) Within the last few weeks the crank sensor, the idle valve and the spark plugs have been replaced. The car will go, but it will struggle. Please help!!!
|
|
| |
|
|
Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Sep 8, 2014, 11:08 AM
Post #2 of 3
(1578 views)
|
|
Re: slow acceleration and then cutting out
|
Sign In
|
|
We don't have that car here in the US but i would suggest getting the computer scanned for codes and go from there.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Sep 8, 2014, 12:31 PM
Post #3 of 3
(1567 views)
|
|
Re: slow acceleration and then cutting out
|
Sign In
|
|
Working with your English a bit. "10" for engine speed - don't you see 'X' 100 after that meaning 1,000 RPMs?
"Resistance in acceleration": You mean the pedal is sticky or just lack of power?
Get the codes read as suggested. This is somewhat consistent with exhaust restriction so I'd check for that.
One way is with a vacuum gauge "T"eed into actual manifold vacuum at idle then held without load at about 2,000 RPMs and should read the same. If substantially lower at higher RPMs without load points to a restriction - usually the converter. Easy to test if you have a vacuum gauge.
If no help from codes move on to lower fuel pressure than specifications,
T
|
|
| |
|
Auto Repair Home
SEARCH
WHO'S 
LOG 
2001 Chevy Cavalier 2.2L automatic radiator fan not running
Going to school to become a mechanic. I need help understanding the vacuum modulator.
Tire -- 'Plastic Debris' In Valve Stem Cavity -- Removal Suggestions Needed
2018 Ford Fusion Titanium Hybrid swaying issue
