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rough idle (cuts off)


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leogallant
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Sep 28, 2014, 4:33 PM

Post #1 of 12 (1557 views)
rough idle (cuts off) Sign In

1963 Falcon 170 6 cyl. Was running great all at once it went South. Barely running now. Pryor I had done a tune up. With all the parts new wires, plugs, points, dist.cap and rotor button. Since I have replaced the coil and no change Also did the carb kit. points set at 18 and seem to be firing. Compression is good on all 6 holding 150 to 160 with no to little loss. Timing is right on the cap on num 1 cyl. Motor starts and soon after goes south. PLEASE share some tips... Thanks Leo III


Hammer Time
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Sep 28, 2014, 5:46 PM

Post #2 of 12 (1548 views)
Re: rough idle (cuts off) Sign In

Check for spark at the plug end of the wires using a spark tester on more than one wire.



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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



Tom Greenleaf
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Sep 28, 2014, 11:34 PM

Post #3 of 12 (1534 views)
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"Carb Kit"


What did you do to the carb and does it still have an automatic choke or a manual one installed?


Starting right up and going bad (South as you said) suggests choke is staying on hard even a very short time should be less either by hand or automatically.


OE probably used heat from exhaust manifold in a tube that didn't last well and would need periodic re doing right there with kits still available. This carb should be drawing in actually exhaust gas to heat the choke so those passages must stay clear in carb up to running fine wire thru and blow them out with carb cleaner. Was routine PITA when these and many others weren't even old yet,


T



leogallant
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Sep 29, 2014, 3:32 AM

Post #4 of 12 (1517 views)
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sorry about the double post. forgot I posted late last night. in answer to your reply it has a manual choke. I disconnect the vac advance the car will not start, reconnect and it will start so I assume the vac advance is working in the distributer. still stumped...


Tom Greenleaf
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Sep 29, 2014, 3:47 AM

Post #5 of 12 (1514 views)
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OP - leogallant said on another thread for same car........"1963 Ford Falcon 170 6.
car was running perfect when it started to run rough. new tune up done before problem carb kit fuel pump new tank and lines new. new coil. will start but runs so rich and rough I cannot adjust carb. I set the mix screw to 2 1'2 turn out as a starting pos. Compression is about the same on all cylinders holding 150 to 160. points set 18 producing spark at plugs. Manual choke I'm stumped HELP please<<"


OP - Clearly either choke isn't right or off or mixture is all off. Only idle mixture is adjusted by those screws not the overall mixture which is by the level which is adjusted by the float.


It's plenty old in the era of changing carbs or altering chokes so can be done but done properly and know how to use even a manual choke. Some YOU shut down instantly just a tad and some will shut down or quickly pull off full choke by themselves and if not something any would flood out in no time.


****************************
Many folks would want to keep a car such as this original if quite nice still but hidden changes to carbs would be unseen for the most part.


How familiar are you with how it should work? Carb kits were mostly just new gaskets and an accelerator pump, needle valve and that's it as the job was really to clean it up not much more but set anything way off or broken back to specs.


#1 is to know how it was supposed to work as it is or if it was altered and how to run it. If not familiar or some unknowns about carb now shut choke totally off at the choke holding it open and not involved to run this till warmed up by priming it and pay attention to how it runs warmed up when choke doesn't matter at all anymore or you'll be all messed up.


Even a whole brand new carb you would run it till warm for final adjustments. You stated you turned mixture screws out 2+1/2 or so which is a base starting point when nothing else is known and ends there and should at least run OK. More than 3 it's covering up another problem usually a vacuum leak anywhere.


In short, get this to run without the choke at all so you know how it should run with the tune up items you did as well and set choke issues aside on purpose till other operating things you've done are known to work properly OR if carb anything is wrecking the whole show now it's first to tend to or the flooding out will foul up getting it to run and make final adjustments if needed to electrical tune up items. Plugs do not do well being soaked in fuel new or not if playing around then they are first if it runs at all.


Really could use a dwell meter if you can find one but can do all without,


T


Tom Greenleaf
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Sep 29, 2014, 3:58 AM

Post #6 of 12 (1510 views)
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I was typing away not seeing your new post. Still get it to plain run and set things when warmed up then move on. If you can't get it to run well warmed up any fooling with it cold is guessing. Timing for instance will be a range of what is best for the fuel now available not necessarily what it even said was the exact spot.


Point gap also changes timing if off and so on. All is fine except now all these things are not adjustable on almost any engine even a chain saw so everyone forgets what a PITA it was to get one to run right which was car by car for final adjustments when they were brand new never mind now!


T



Hammer Time
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Sep 29, 2014, 4:42 AM

Post #7 of 12 (1498 views)
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If you didn't lube the distributor cams, then the points could have closed up. The vacuum advance should have no effect on starting at all.



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



leogallant
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Sep 29, 2014, 5:01 AM

Post #8 of 12 (1496 views)
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well I think I may have found the problem. I removed the points and after looking them over I found the back screw was loose and by tightening that and reinstalling the car starts and runs. go figure the weakest link... thanks for your sugestions, as a result we have success...


Tom Greenleaf
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Sep 29, 2014, 5:13 AM

Post #9 of 12 (1495 views)
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I have to go for a while real soon LeoIII. Glad you found it. DO NOT LOSE THOSE SCREWS INTO DISTRIBUTOR! Lube at HT mentioned is put on leading edge of where points ride on the cam. If unsure which is leading follow the vacuum advance hose as if you were tracing it in from the hose and distributor spins in that direction.


Just a smear or if points came with a felt they were either ready or not. One drop of oil. Never too much of anything in there that could spray around that is greasy. Less is better than more just in the right spot,


T



leogallant
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Sep 29, 2014, 8:28 AM

Post #10 of 12 (1483 views)
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define PITA please not in list...


Hammer Time
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Sep 29, 2014, 9:05 AM

Post #11 of 12 (1480 views)
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PITA - Pain In The Ass



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



leogallant
User

Sep 29, 2014, 1:26 PM

Post #12 of 12 (1473 views)
Re: rough idle (cuts off) Sign In

thanks 4 the info..ht






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