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dadrobb
User
Feb 11, 2017, 9:59 AM
Post #26 of 34
(948 views)
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I talked to an electronics guy at school and found a test procedure online. I fixed all the stupid wiring as I was testing. I checked for pulse with a noid light and it checked out good.As I went through the other tests, it indicated the module was good but no power coming out of the PIP.I was wondering from the start if it might be the pick up, but wanted to check out everything else first.Everything points to it now.A used distributor is 45 bucks, and anew one is $60. I needed to know if the pickups already installed. It would save a boat load of aggravation to just pull the old one out and drop the new one in.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Feb 11, 2017, 10:27 AM
Post #27 of 34
(944 views)
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IDK - your prices don't match anything I'm looking at out there! Core charge is $60 for this one........... Used, no core charge usually but knowing it was running or perhaps find one that you can run it generally either works or doesn't no in between. Look at the pic at the gear and to the left a bushing which are held in by roll pins then slide those off to do just a pick up coil. They don't like sliding off the shaft is a pest and assorted pullers can still bust things you may not find so easily? IDK - in ages since this set up was new I've personally never found a bad pick up coil proven bad but dang the parts look up for that pic shows they are still in stock all the time! Whole thread got long - sorry. Did you verify this distributor's rotor turns just cranking engine? It's possible it's busted off the lower gear's roll pin and doesn't turn - that's been found to cause serious hair loss in diagnosing this, T
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dadrobb
User
Feb 11, 2017, 12:39 PM
Post #28 of 34
(940 views)
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I will look again
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Feb 11, 2017, 1:05 PM
Post #29 of 34
(934 views)
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Do you want to correctly diagnose this or do you just want to throw money away. If you have either injector or ignition pulse, then your pickup coil is good. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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dadrobb
User
Feb 11, 2017, 1:43 PM
Post #30 of 34
(930 views)
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I don't understand. I did the testing per the sequence and it shows the pickup as bad. The external module checked good, the coil checked good. What am I missing?
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dadrobb
User
Feb 11, 2017, 1:44 PM
Post #31 of 34
(928 views)
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I just went out and checked. The rotor is turning when I crank it.
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dadrobb
User
Feb 11, 2017, 1:46 PM
Post #32 of 34
(928 views)
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I verified the rotor is turning
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Feb 11, 2017, 2:04 PM
Post #33 of 34
(926 views)
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The pickup coil supplies the reference signal for both spark and injector pulse so if you have either one, the pickup is doing it's job. Why don't you start from the beginning where you should have started. All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment. If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money. Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for. These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause. 1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on. 2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on. 3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off. 4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test. Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out, you will know which system is having the problem. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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dadrobb
User
Feb 11, 2017, 3:51 PM
Post #34 of 34
(917 views)
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thanks
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